Fuel Pump
Comments
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Not to be flip, but how many are on the one that's on the car now?0
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If Dave gave you 6 use 6 most Hudson fuel pumps have some sort of spacer.I know my splasher 212 has .250 thickness spacers.
Chuck G0 -
I also purchased a rebuilt fuel pump (single) for my 50 Pacemaker (232 6 cylinder) from Dave Kostansek at Auburn. Dave said to use four spacers which is also the number of spacers between the old pump and engine block. I used four NOS spacers when I installed the rebuilt pump. Drove my Pacemaker with the new pump and everything's fine. Don't forget to retighten the fuel pump bolts to the block after the engine has warmed up as they will be relatively loose from when you first attached the pump to the engine.
Dan0 -
OK...
i REPLACED THE ORIGINAL FUEL PUMP with the new one I got from Dave....
They looked alot different, but I decided to take a chance.....The Original fuel pump had NO SPACERS just a gasket so I put on the new one with just a gasket...
Well to make a long story short..ITS WORSE NOW THAN BEFORE...hardly can get it to even idle let alone drive it...
I did add a couple more gaskets between the carb and the heat shield, but this shouldn't have made a difference?..
I am at wits end....Its NOT THE COIL ITS NOT THE CONDENSOR < IT"S NOT THE CARB, And a new fuel pump made it worse....
HELP!!!!!!0 -
Put the spacers on. Without them the geometry is all wrong for the arm of the pump. That's why it's not idleing.0
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You have to have those spacer gaskets on the fuel pump for its arm to ride properly if not the pump will not function correctly and you will end up damaging it. Was the pump you took off the car identical to the one from Dave? you need those spacers. So pull the pump and add the spacers and see if the pump is pumping correctly.....0
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The pump was totally different and with the 6 spacers provided the bolts are not long enough to mount the pump...Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr0
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You will have to get new bolts add the spacers and do this thing up right when you do you will find the pump will work correctly.0
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HI TOM, Spacers sould be .250 AFTER they have compressed. Now take it easy,one thing at a time, put the pump on, with a gauge check the presshure at the carb end of the fuel line 2-3 pds. NO gauge? a good healthy lookin stream is next choice. Got enough? next pull your coil wire and crank eng to fill carb, looking in carb work throttle and see if you are squirting gas in manifold. Got squirts? start eng , look in carb while working throttle, should squirt good each time you work it. If you got enough pressure and it don't squirt good when running you got a carb problem, { sticky float needle maybe } Squirt some liquid soap around carb mounting gasket and check for vacum leak. We should have checked ALL vacume conections before we started this. That should check out your fuel system, if it's OK then you need to go to another area. Let us know and we'll go from there.0
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OK FOLKS...a picture is worth a thousand words so I hope I get this right..
The Origina pump is on the right and Daves replacement is on the left...They don't even look close to being similar and yah I know that the replacement dosen't have a built in filter.
Note the length and configuration of the actuating arms..not even close to being similar? Also I added the spacers to the New Pump and I GOT ABSOLUTELY NO gas to the carb at all..without spacers I got a SMALL AMMOUNT OF GAS using the new pump..0 -
Tom, you have probably mentioned this waaay back, but.... is the engine in your car the correct one for that year and model? In other words, if you told Dave which year and model your Hudson is, he would have sent a pump for that engine. In fact IS that the engine, or has yours been replaced with a different one?
Sorry, just checking!0 -
Well, I can say that the pump on the right is not a Hudson stepdown pump! The one the left looks like the correct AC pump for a 1948 - 1949 Six. Most pumps have a number stamped into the edge of the mounting flange. I think it should begin with "AH". If it does it is right series, but is it right model? I would call Dave Kostansek and verify that you have the right pump.0
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How about calling Dave and giving him the numbers from the dud pump or sending the dud off to get rebuilt?0
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Tom
I have posted some pictures of what a dual action and single action Hudson fuel pump looks like. The Pinto pump will work as a single action... look through other posts for part number....
While one of the pumps was affixed to your engine... neither appear to be Hudson pumps.... If you want to get to the bottom of this problem... borrow an electric pump and use it... or borrow a known good mechanical pump.
Take a look at the pictures... these are correct Hudson pumps... sorry I do not have pictures of pumps off the car....
Ken0 -
Ken...the Pump on the right was the one that has been on my car since I got it over 3 years ago and I have never had a problem with it. The one on the left is the NEW ONE I just got from DAVE KOSTANSEK..you say that it is NOT a Hudson fuel pump?? I thought he only delt with replacement Hudson pumps?
Now I am really confused and bewildered0 -
What he said was:
"Well, I can say that the pump on the right is not a Hudson stepdown pump!" So, that would be the one you said was on your car.0 -
Maybe this will help some--on you browser type in "Hudson engine numbers" go to #5 that comes up--there will be a number of choices there, among them you will find one that gives engine serial numbers for the differant engines to identify your engine0
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Tom, when you put the replacement pump on with no spacers you broke the pump! I did exactly the same thing on my 54 wasp. Get another pump from napa for an AMC matador mid 70's and put it on with spacers, it will work, trust me. Also rotate the engine alittle until the pump goes in without pressure on the arm of the pump, it bolts up easier.0
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Jim could be absolutely right, but first things first again,check the engine number to make DARN SURE you have the one you think you have0
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Tom... Where are you located? I'm in Seattle and have a correct spare pump you could try (although it's dual auction). The old pump you had in your car was NOT a correct Hudson part, the one Dave sent you was right. What engine is in your car?
Aaron0 -
I'm in the woodinville, monroe area.....
Perhaps we can hook up..You can call me at 206 351-2649
Thanks,
TOM0 -
I didn't break the damn pump people...Gee read the posts.....The pump works so so without the spacers and with them in ( I PUT THEM ON) the lever dosent reach the cam....
LOOK AT THE PICTURES of the two side by side pumps....Notice that the Original pump (WITHOUT SPACERS) has a longer actuating lever than the replacement pump that Dave sent me...
With SPACERS the NEW PUMP lever is MUCH MUCH shorter than the original pump that has been working fine for over 3 years.....
When I follow advice I try to see the logic behind it....And I don't recall saying ANYTHING about asking for a refund...0 -
HI TOM, Certainly understand your frustration. 99.9 % of the guys in this club are the best that come. Logic is also my method of doing things. Sguare one ,see if you can find the engine number, not positive but I think between 1+2 cyl below the manifold. Somebody check me on this, I think 49 eng/ser # should match, that would resolve question about eng swap {not impossable on these old cars}The guy that said it was'nt a step down pump sounded pretty darn sure of it. These guys WILL HELP, let them know if your sure about which engine you have. If your not they'll help you find out. They gotta know what they're working on. As for the new pump,only one person never made a mistake,Daves a good guy but it was'nt him.0
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Tom. I'm in the Lake City area, so probably not too far for you to come by and pick up a spare pump to try. But before we go any further, it'd really help to know what engine is in your car so I can make sure what I have will help you. Aaron0
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My engine is the ORIGINAL 262 that cane with the car....Yes the engine Id Matches the car..it's all original..
Lake City is right down the road from me.......if you want givce me yer phone number and I'll give you a call0 -
I sure hate to mention this, but cam lobe wear shoud also be looked in to. All you need is a soft probe of some sort so you don't scar things up,maybe a plastic straw or such and crank the engine over.0
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TOM-WA- wrote:OK FOLKS...a picture is worth a thousand words so I hope I get this right..
The Origina pump is on the right and Daves replacement is on the left...They don't even look close to being similar and yah I know that the replacement dosen't have a built in filter.
Note the length and configuration of the actuating arms..not even close to being similar? Also I added the spacers to the New Pump and I GOT ABSOLUTELY NO gas to the carb at all..without spacers I got a SMALL AMMOUNT OF GAS using the new pump..
On EBay: http://i2.ebayimg.com/01/i/000/af/47/643e_2.JPG
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FUEL-PUMP-Hudson-1956-1957-with-own-Engine_W0QQitemZ120150886886QQihZ002QQcategoryZ10076QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Looks somewhat similar to the photo of your original pump0 -
If this helps, here is a picture of the original fuel pump I removed from the original 232 next to a new NAPA replacement, which I have been using for a few months with no issues. The Napa unit is on the right.
Matt0
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