How do you safely clean and seal a gas tank
I just got my radiator and gas tank back from the radiator shop. They did a good job on my radiator, but would not touch my gas tank for less than $400 (at a minimum). I asked about boiling and cleaning, but they said that I would have rust problems unless I sandblasted it. They said they would need to cut holes in order to sandblast and seal. I have all the tools to do this, but not sure about how you keep the old gas from becoming an ignition/explosive hazard. I have heard that pumping exhaust into the tank while cutting or welding will keep any gas vapors from igniting. Can I fill it with water while cutting the top off? If I sandblast the inside will I need to be concerned with gas vapors when I weld it back together? Has anyone done this themselves?

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My advice is find another shop that knows what they are doing.0
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My advice is find another shop that wants to do it. sounds like you have a shop that really dosen't want to mess with gas tanks but for 400 bucks they will. The first shop I called wouldn't do it and they suggested another that they thought would. the second really didn't want to touch them anymore, but said they might consider it during the summer when all the doors were open but really wasn't interested. They did however point me to a third shop, that shop said no problem and did it for less then the kit from eastwood and the additional supplies would have cost me, and better yet, I didn't have to do it or deal with the mess.0
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thats expensive to have done here in nj. i got prices for a few cars and luckily those cars, i could buy a new tank, it was much cheaper. the guy before me did the tank on my essex with the por 15 kit and to make a long story short, some day i am going to make a new tank. he didnt clean it good enough and you can see the built up crap under the sealer. i cant imagine how you can clean every inch without cutting it open. you have to watch with sandblasting, doesnt it create static? i would try powerwashing it, soak it with purple power or super clean or something like that first. i was always told the carbon monoxide trick when i was in welding school. one time i tried it on a diesel tank and it didnt go boom when i welded it.0
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If you empty the tank completely and let it sit outside for a few days (open), won't the remaining fuel evaporate?0
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ya but the fumes won't ever go safely away. do not try to weld it. i have stuck a hose from a co2 tank into the gas tank filler and turned it on just a bit and then welded many times.
you can do it yourself with the POR15 kit. it works. i have selaed some bad cracks 4 years ago on a tractor that someone tried to braze and i could not make the new patch stick. it sits outside all its life. still looks great inside.
i didn;t plan on it lasting more than my lifetime.
you need to follow the por 15 instructions and it will work, its not really easy to do the work. thats why most people just throw money at someone else to do it. . . . . .0 -
I cleaned the tank on my '29 Hudson by putting a shovelful of road chip in it, with half a gallon of water, and rattling it around for a while to loosen most of the crud. Then hosed it out with high pressure water until it stopped putting out any muck. Then gave it the POR15 three stage tank treatment. This does work, but you must follow the instructions exactly, and have lots of patience. don;t expect to do it in a day, as if there is any moisture at all in the tank you will get incomplete coverage of the coating. The three stages are dissolving the old fuel residues and fluching them out, then chemically treating the metal to neutralise the rust etc. and fluching out thoroughly out with water. When thoroughly dry you use the finish coating, which you then leave to mature and harden. This coats the interior of the tank with an impervious plastic coating. It does work. I have done several tanks this way. And I'm not a POR15 agent.
Geoff.0 -
Geoff C., N.Z. wrote:I cleaned the tank on my '29 Hudson by putting a shovelful of road chip in it, with half a gallon of water, and rattling it around for a while to loosen most of the crud. Then hosed it out with high pressure water until it stopped putting out any muck. Then gave it the POR15 three stage tank treatment. This does work, but you must follow the instructions exactly, and have lots of patience. don;t expect to do it in a day, as if there is any moisture at all in the tank you will get incomplete coverage of the coating. The three stages are dissolving the old fuel residues and fluching them out, then chemically treating the metal to neutralise the rust etc. and fluching out thoroughly out with water. When thoroughly dry you use the finish coating, which you then leave to mature and harden. This coats the interior of the tank with an impervious plastic coating. It does work. I have done several tanks this way. And I'm not a POR15 agent.
Geoff.
did Hot tank gas tank to remove all varnish and fumes .flushed untill clean.
Filled tank with akind of acid that removes rust (used) let it sit for two work
days drained acid rehotanked it flushed untill clean. heated tank untill hot
to dry painted outside of tank. Then put in a qt of gas tank sealer.turned tank every way to distribute sealer. Drained excess sealer. I looked inside tank before they put in sealer. Looked like brandnew.Last gas in tank1966
Badddd smelllll. duncan0 -
I sent mine out to Gas Tank Renu and they did a great job. You can 'Google' them and find the nearest dealer.0
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I have had 2 tanks done by Gas Tank Renu with great success and lifetime guarantee!0
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I also sent my 36 Terraplane tank to Renu, it was full of holes and needed new metal in places. I haven't installed it yet, but it looks good. It was about as bad as you can imagine, if I would have put tank sealer in it, it just would have run out all the holes. Cost to rebuild and seal was $360. Not cheep, but it does have a lifetime guarantee, and they have shops all around the country.0
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The radiator shop in Carson City boiled out and cleaned my Jet gas tank for only $100. And they also painted it, and stress tested it. Looks real good!0
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The guy that did 3 of my tanks runs a radator shop, but his cousin runs a glass shop. He gets shattered glass from his cousin, and has built a huge rotisserie in his radiator shop. He puts 3 pounds of shattered glass in the tank and tumbles it on the rotisserie for 24 hours then checks it, if not clean it gets another 24 hours. When clean it gets another boil out then sealer is poured in and tumbled on the rotisserie for two hours. Drained out and left 24 hrs to dry. I've never had any trouble in 7 years. I take that back I did forget to run a wire through the vent tube, and the first one wanted to puke gas if you filled it too fast. Seems the sealer had closed up the tube. I ran an electricians fish tape down it and cleared the problem. Last one I had done, cost $125 +tax about 4 years ago.
BOB0 -
Interesting subject...
My Twin brother Jeff is a Radiator, Fuel Tank and air cond specialist.
He uses only one product for fuel tanks. Redkote.
Redkote even works if you had a million pin holes in your tank. It fills the holes and seals it for life. You can do this at home once you clean out your tank. The 28 Essex was done over 4 years ago and no sign of leaks what so ever.
regards0 -
I had the gas tank from my '49 in a shop, they cleaned it and put silicone over the holes and weak spots. It did not take long and the gas ate through the silicone and gas just poured out my tank. removed the tank a second time and took it to Gas Tank Renu and sure it was costly, but they did a fantastic job, repaired and replaced rusted sections, cleaned and sealed the tank, looked like new. I would use them again.0
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I had my radiator and gas tank for my Jet done at the same shop here in Indiana, and it cost me 150.00 for both. They did a great job! No problems yet! (knock on wood) I suggest you do some shopping around. Sounds like they don't want to fool with it.
Barry Smedley0 -
Don't do the water thing. The water merely traps pockets of gasoline which then explode into the water. My brother tried it on Dad's old Ford and when the torch got busy, the tank got't grumblin an rollin around on the ground for quite a spell. When it was over, the tank had swelled up so they never could get it back in the car.
I drained about 6 gal of stinky gas out of the Terraplane. What to do with it. I thought maybe I could mix it 50-50 and burn it in the Wheelhorse. Next morning the horse wouldn't start for the first time in 40 years. The varnish has stuck the fuel pump poppets fast to the seats. So I dumped it a gallon at a time in the burn barrel and ran a 15 foot gas fuse in the sand and lit it. It was great. The fire went down the fuse and safely exploded the gallon in the barrel with a loud 'whump'.
Now that I've lost all credibility, here's what I did, once with the 49 and again with the 36. Both tanks were solid, but had a lot of crud.
I drained all the gas I could get out. Then I put a gallon of kerosene in the tank and sloshed it all around, and poured it out. What little gas was left, mixed with the kerosene, and left with it.. Repeated with fresh kerosene to be sure. Kerosene will burn but is not explosive.
I put a shovel full of small stones in and tied it to the cement mixer, which repeatedly tried to throw it on the ground. I got the stones out then did the kit thing. I could see a pocket of goo right where the pickup would be sucking. I bypassed this step the 2nd time.
Then I got the Dremel cutter and cut a 5 inch hole right over the pickup. That allowed me to get the 1/4 inch drill with wire brushes in there and give things a good cleaning. The other side of the baffle looked pretty good thru the sender hole.
The goo was a mix of the chemicals I had used to clean, etch and coat, trapped in what was left of the screen around the pickup.
After wire brushing and cleaning, and in the case of the 36, scraping up 1/4 inch of tar with a putty knife, I ate most of the rust with dilute Muriatic Acid, then washed with washing soda, (Arm and Hammer) Dryed it with the blower end of the shop vac, and painted the sealer inside the tank.
I one case I soldered the circle back in place, and in the other I used JB Weld. My tanks are clean and coated and no more problems.
I think if they cast a spotty shadow, I too would take them to Gas Tenk Renew.0 -
Bula to all you guys, as coming from Fiji
I remember when it was time to do mine and there was more holes in it than a piece of swiss cheese, At that stage I didnt know of this forum ( and power to it and its people) I ended up going to a guy that made gas tanks for speedway cars and he produced 1 for me in st/steel (minus all the swagging)as thats all they work in for $550-00 nz which was a lot cheaper than trying to find 1 in the USA and having to ship it down and thats if I knew where to look in them days
MIke0 -
I Used KBS coatings on my stainless steel tank. Since it had no leaks and once I cleaned off all the road grime from the outside it looked new. It took me 2 days to clean using some inventions in the garage and then 4 days for the tank Sealer to cure. No welding and $57 saved me from buying a new tank plus I have 10 more cars that I am sure will need it done in the near future it was the most cost effective procedure for me. 11 new gas tanks at $400 each thats a down payment on another car.
Retired and cheap I prefer the less expensive way of doing things and in the down time play some XBOX 360 while waiting for it to dry.0
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