Dual Master Cyl adapted to '37 - '47
FYI
I have finished installing a dual master cyl on my '47 Hudson truck using a '37 pedal assy as a template.
I used a 1/4" pc of mild steel
from Lowes about 2" wider than orig master cyl bracket bolted
to the 3 bolt pedal assy as an adaptor then drilled and taped two more outboard bolts to hold the dual cyl. It required countersinking all the holes flush then use 'button head' bolts.
I utilized the dual cyl pushrod (supplied with cyl) by threading to insert into the stock clevis to adj free play.
The nice feature (besides updating to todays safety) is that all the emergency linkage remains intact and the clutch pedal is still usable if have a standard trans....
Then needed only split the brake lines at their Tee, running the front brakes into the larger chamber and the rear brakes into the smaller chamber..
I utilized a Ford Torino 'manual drum brake' master cyl # 10=1519 because of using drum brakes. However, if using Disc simply get the 'Disc' Master cyl because of residual valve pressure.
Only drawback is re filling 'might' require a long funnel but how often is that needed...
Suprisingly, It was one of the more simpler things Ive done in my retro work...I have a couple pictures if interested, but uncertain on post process..
Ol racer
I have finished installing a dual master cyl on my '47 Hudson truck using a '37 pedal assy as a template.
I used a 1/4" pc of mild steel
from Lowes about 2" wider than orig master cyl bracket bolted
to the 3 bolt pedal assy as an adaptor then drilled and taped two more outboard bolts to hold the dual cyl. It required countersinking all the holes flush then use 'button head' bolts.
I utilized the dual cyl pushrod (supplied with cyl) by threading to insert into the stock clevis to adj free play.
The nice feature (besides updating to todays safety) is that all the emergency linkage remains intact and the clutch pedal is still usable if have a standard trans....
Then needed only split the brake lines at their Tee, running the front brakes into the larger chamber and the rear brakes into the smaller chamber..
I utilized a Ford Torino 'manual drum brake' master cyl # 10=1519 because of using drum brakes. However, if using Disc simply get the 'Disc' Master cyl because of residual valve pressure.
Only drawback is re filling 'might' require a long funnel but how often is that needed...
Suprisingly, It was one of the more simpler things Ive done in my retro work...I have a couple pictures if interested, but uncertain on post process..
Ol racer
0
Comments
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I would like to see pictures. A dual master cylinder is a good safety upgrade IMHO.0
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I would be interested in seeing the pic's also.0
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I am not sure what is beneficial about changing over to this, is it ease of parts? On every dual chamber master cylinder that I have had, when you blow a wheel cylinder or a rear line ruptures, I never had front brakes to stop me. This happened with a few of my AMC's. Last year I had one of the front calipers fail and it began to lose fluid. I lost ALL of my brakes, not just the front. Maybe all master cylinders aren't created equal?0
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FYI
Now that I have my Truck nearly finished and after driving I can verify updating to a Dual Master Cyl works well. It retains the complete Hudson 'Secondary' Emergency System, inc. stop lite switch and can be easily adapted from '37 (maybe older) up to '47 Hudson's. (Details Posted above earlier)
I installed a 262" motor with Hydro and refilling the M/Cyl is possible from above by reaching down near the starter....
Just a thought...
Ol'Racer0
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