Is this gap supposed to be there?

mrsbojigger
mrsbojigger Senior Contributor
edited November -1 in HUDSON
I am installing my panhard bar on the rear of my '51 Hudson but it doesn't look like this gap should be there. Everything is "loosy goosey" when assembled. I purchased the bushing from our Hudson parts supplier in California using their catalog. It fits correctly in the panhard bar itself. I also checked to see if the bracket itself was bent but both ends are parallel to each other. Am I missing something? Is the bushing too short or are there supposed to be washers at both ends? The bushing measures 2" in length.
Peace,
Chaz

Comments

  • It should have washers at both ends. When bushings are installed in panhard rod it may make them a bit longer, thru compression of center area. If they were completely tight it could bind up the bar. My two bits worth Lou Cote
  • mrsbojigger
    mrsbojigger Senior Contributor
    Hi Lou,
    I have already installed the bushing in the panhard bar but it doesn't lengthen it enough to really make any difference. I may have to resort to the washer fix. I can't remember how it came apart since it was so long ago and in such awful shape.
    Peace,
    Chaz
  • Clutchguy
    Clutchguy Senior Contributor
    There is also a shoulder built into the inside of this bracket,but it appears yours is still there because of the washer location.Sometimes this is rotted away though.As Lou stated,it will also tighten up when installed.You should also have a sleeve that goes into this bushing.I have found it very helpful to use a product called Silglide,availible from Napa.This is a paste,lubricates the opening and also helps keep it from rusting.
  • Since we're talking panhard bar bushing replacement and the experts are here, I have a question or two.



    Just how much force should it take to slide the rearend over and re-install the panhard bar? What measurements can I take to make sure the installed lateral position is correct.



    The reason I ask is that the two I've done, took ALOT of force to pull the rearend over enough to reinstall the panhard bar. Even then, the side-load deformed the bushings pretty severely once I released the pressure.



    Mark
  • I'm no expert on Panhard bars but unless you have the car on a lift, it really shouldn't take any force. If you don't want a struggle, leave the car on the floor, jack the rear end and leave the tires touching the floor.
  • Edwardjohnsr
    Edwardjohnsr Expert Adviser
    Last winter I replaced my panhard bar bushings and there were washers and no gap. There were also steel sleeves inside the bushings to keep them from crushing when the bolts are tightened. I had to have new sleeves machined because mine were rusted.



    Also, if the car is resting on its wheels (not hanging from the springs) the panhard bar slides on the brackets easily. If the wheels are off the ground and hanging from the springs the panhard bar will not reach the bracket.
  • Mark,
    When I replaced my panhard bar on my coupe I put the bushings in, then used a jack to lift the rear end housing until it slid into place easily. There should be a washer on each side of the bushing.
    Bob
  • BJ__TN wrote:
    Mark,

    When I replaced my panhard bar on my coupe I put the bushings in, then used a jack to lift the rear end housing until it slid into place easily. There should be a washer on each side of the bushing.

    Bob



    I think the "jacking the rear end up" part is what I missed.



    I jacked up the whole rear half of car with no weight on the differential at all. The rear axle assembly was just hanging there .



    I did have the washers, no gap, and the steel sleeves.



    All's well that ends well.



    Thanks



    Mark
  • Clutchguy
    Clutchguy Senior Contributor
    `Hudsonator wrote:
    Since we're talking panhard bar bushing replacement and the experts are here, I have a question or two.



    Just how much force should it take to slide the rearend over and re-install the panhard bar? What measurements can I take to make sure the installed lateral position is correct.



    The reason I ask is that the two I've done, took ALOT of force to pull the rearend over enough to reinstall the panhard bar. Even then, the side-load deformed the bushings pretty severely once I released the pressure.



    Mark



    Mark,I have had this problem in the past on some cars,but not all.I also think that the rear spring mounting rubber lets the springs shift somewhat out of position and thus makes it hard to re-install the bar,because it needs to be longer??. With the vehicle supported very solid,jacking just the left side of the rear end will let you connect the bar a little easier.I have checked this out on a few cars that I was having trouble with and found that the upper mounting bracket,as shown in this thread,has been pushed outward[towards the right side of the car]I found that it kind of separates[splits] from the edge where it was welded from the top part of the frame to the bottom of the frame.I have also changed the rear leaf springs at the same time as replacing the bar bushings and couldn't get it hooked back up to save my life!!! I know this is under alot of stress here.Early in the Step-down car production,the bolt on the axle was just stuck in the hole loose,don't know when,but they started welding the lower bolt in place.I don't know if this really answered your question but I hope it helps.
  • Clutch guy wrote:
    Mark,I have had this problem in the past on some cars,but not all.I also think that the rear spring mounting rubber lets the springs shift somewhat out of position and thus makes it hard to re-install the bar,because it needs to be longer??. With the vehicle supported very solid,jacking just the left side of the rear end will let you connect the bar a little easier.I have checked this out on a few cars that I was having trouble with and found that the upper mounting bracket,as shown in this thread,has been pushed outward[towards the right side of the car]I found that it kind of separates[splits] from the edge where it was welded from the top part of the frame to the bottom of the frame.I have also changed the rear leaf springs at the same time as replacing the bar bushings and couldn't get it hooked back up to save my life!!! I know this is under alot of stress here.Early in the Step-down car production,the bolt on the axle was just stuck in the hole loose,don't know when,but they started welding the lower bolt in place.I don't know if this really answered your question but I hope it helps.



    Thanks Doug, that makes me feel alot better.



    The Super Wasp had the "bent upper bracket" problem just as you described.



    I think the '49 Super Six had been without a decent bushing for so long, it had kinda "settled" wherever it wanted.



    Both cars needed the panhard bar to be about 1/2" longer, so I cranked the rearend over with a cable ratchet until I could slip the bushing over the axle bolt. One end of the ratchet cable wrapped around the upper bracket right next to the frame (to keep from bending it) and the other end hooked into the rear end, lower bracket. Just a few clicks and she slipped on - but the cable was tight!



    Mark
  • dwardo99
    dwardo99 Expert Adviser
    Mark - what kind of difference did it make in the handling/ride of the car? I just bought bushings for the Hornet but haven't gotten around to installing them yet.
  • dwardo99 wrote:
    Mark - what kind of difference did it make in the handling/ride of the car? I just bought bushings for the Hornet but haven't gotten around to installing them yet.



    You know that funny feeling you get when you round a curve a little "spirited". Like your rearend is tracking an extra foot to the outside.



    Once you freshen up the panhard bushings, that doesn't happen anymore.



    It makes the back end alot more solid in the curves, without taking away any of the nice ride. Excellent little gift from the Hudson engineers of old.



    Mark
  • dwardo99
    dwardo99 Expert Adviser
    Thanks, Mark! I know what you mean. It feels like the rear end is doing some of the steering. A good minor project for over the winter.
  • mrsbojigger wrote:
    I am installing my panhard bar on the rear of my '51 Hudson but it doesn't look like this gap should be there. Everything is "loosy goosey" when assembled. I purchased the bushing from our Hudson parts supplier in California using their catalog. It fits correctly in the panhard bar itself. I also checked to see if the bracket itself was bent but both ends are parallel to each other. Am I missing something? Is the bushing too short or are there supposed to be washers at both ends? The bushing measures 2" in length.
    Peace,
    Chaz
    The head of that bolt is suppose to push the sleeve up against the washer. Your sleeve is frozen so you will have to free it up. Then the sleeve will push the washer up against the spacer in the middle of the bushing and now it is back the way factory set it up. Walt Mordenti-53
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