How far to go when prepping to start engine?

rambos_ride
rambos_ride Senior Contributor
edited November -1 in HUDSON
The couple I bought the car from said it last ran 2 years ago when they pulled it off the trailer, drove it up and down the block then in the shop where it sat until I bought it.

Water: Anti freeze is above 50% mix and green, full, no rust or other issues - this also means no sitting water leaks!

Oil: Needs to be changed but I did not notice anything under smear test, or visually that would concern me...it did smell a little of gasoline, which I'm assuming is normal for an engine of this age and needing an oil change.

Plugs, wires, distr. cap, rotor, all look new to nearly new.

The battery looks brand new and tested @ 6+ volts, battery cables are new.

Fan belt is new, radiotor hoses could be replaced.

I hooked the cable to the battery, turned the ignition switch on, pushed the clutch in, hit the button and...the engine easily turns over :D , I did not "crank" it more than 1 full turn, nor was any fuel hooked up so it wouldn't start.

Honestly, I think I'll drain and refill the oil, check compression and try to start the darn thing up!

What do all you stock Hudson guys think?

Comments

  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Pull the plugs first and shoot a little oil in each cyl. Maybe pull the coil wire and crank engine till the oil lite goes out, then start it.
  • Nevada Hudson
    Nevada Hudson Senior Contributor
    I put a little marvel mystery oil in each cylinder. Worked great, did not drop any foreign object in it ! After driving it awhile at operating temp, change the oil again to get any sludge and crap out from setting a long time.
  • faustmb
    faustmb Senior Contributor
    I would do just what was mentioned above, perform an oil change and add a little oil in the cylinders. I've done this with a few hudsons that sat more than a few years with no issues. Run it in very short bursts to start. You'll find out pretty quickly if you need to do more.



    Good stuff :)
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    ONE MORE, Don't think that oil ought to smell like GAS, That's a good sign the fuel pump diaphragm has a hole in it, it can do that and still pump fuel. Check it soon and often after you change the oil, smell gas better change the pump. more oil is cheap.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    get an 1983 AMC concocrde 6 cylinder fuel pump from Autozone, and run it off of a gallon jug/can. Don't run the car from the tank, until you drop it, flush it, and seal it.



    coolant, is prolly okay, at this point, as well as hose, and belt.



    I think at this point, I would drain the oil and put in a few quarts of cheap oil, jus to use it as test oil. I would look at dropping the pan, and cleaning the pickup and pan out. SOON.



    CLutch, might want to drain whatever might (doubt there is any in there...) be in there, and fill with a quick mix, if you don't have anything on hand. Several people have offered what might work, and use one of those concoctions... I bet after all of this time, it needs a recork anyway, so it isn't gonna hurt.



    Put a set of h-10's in (fresh ones) from WalMArt, they're like a $1.29 each.



    might want to spray out the carb a bit with carb cleaner, just to help it a bit.



    Also, autozone will have your distributor cap and rotor, in stock. Look under plymouth or dodge of the same year, I think that was the correct number. It should be an IGS dist. Also, 6V coil is a shelf item. condensor, might be a special order, might be shelf.
  • rambos_ride
    rambos_ride Senior Contributor
    See inline

    hudsonkid wrote:
    get an 1983 AMC concocrde 6 cylinder fuel pump from Autozone, and run it off of a gallon jug/can. Don't run the car from the tank, until you drop it, flush it, and seal it.

    [Dan]
    No Kidding, I opened the fuel cap and it smelled of varnish!

    coolant, is prolly okay, at this point, as well as hose, and belt.
    [Dan]
    My assumption as well, if it runs and starts circulating muddy looking crud, I'll drain it then!

    I think at this point, I would drain the oil and put in a few quarts of cheap oil, jus to use it as test oil. I would look at dropping the pan, and cleaning the pickup and pan out. SOON.

    [Dan]
    How close is the oil pickup clearance from the pan stock?
    Does anyone make the replacement oil pan gaskets or do you have to hand make them?

    CLutch, might want to drain whatever might (doubt there is any in there...) be in there, and fill with a quick mix, if you don't have anything on hand. Several people have offered what might work, and use one of those concoctions... I bet after all of this time, it needs a recork anyway, so it isn't gonna hurt.

    [Dan]
    The old guy did that when he was trying to figure out why the car stopped moving, he showed me the empty bottle of Hudsonite stuff he got online from the HET store...I, haven't checked the levels yet.

    On another clutch note - I found an old clutch plate with cork on both sides in the trunk, I wonder what the possiblility is that the clutch was replaced, but is now just stuck?

    Put a set of h-10's in (fresh ones) from WalMArt, they're like a $1.29 each.

    [Dan] Plugs are/look new

    might want to spray out the carb a bit with carb cleaner, just to help it a bit.

    [Dan] It's been done!

    Also, autozone will have your distributor cap and rotor, in stock. Look under plymouth or dodge of the same year, I think that was the correct number. It should be an IGS dist. Also, 6V coil is a shelf item. condensor, might be a special order, might be shelf.

    [Dan] That's good to know, brake pedal goes to the floor, does AZ stock a master cylinder?
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Okay, let's short list this one....



    AZ stocks rebuild kits, and a hone, for the master cylinder and wheel cylinders, as well as hoses.



    Dan, I know you're not afraid to rebuild these on your own...



    Lining is available as well, I never bought it, but heard it was. I think there has been some problem, with the arc on these shoes. Best to have your old shoes relined, if need be. All wheel seals are available at a decent bearing shop, maybe even AZ...



    If the clutch is stuck, you can unstick it with time, by turning it 1/3 turn at a time, working the pedal, soaking, etc... I would venture to say it is no good at this point, anyway...



    Gaskets, all... check out the link I got for Dale Cooper, tell him Rick K sent you from PA.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Dan, Ken Cates, posted a number for a master cylinder (MC2796) from Oreilley Auto Parts. It is a direct replacement. Runs around $65 tax included.
    Get wheel cylinders from NAPA as well as shoes I got shoes for my Hornet front: TS 263 Rear: TS 55 I don't know if they are the same for your car. Rears should be the same but the fronts are a wider shoe on the Hornet.
    Bob
  • faustmb
    faustmb Senior Contributor
    I got a master cylinder rebuild kit from Napa for less than $20. The master cylinder itself looks to be aluminum. My original was in near perfect shape, no corrosion or pitting at all.



    I second the AMC fuel pump, I got one from Napa as well for about $20. It only requires opening the OE washer stack and bending a custom line to put it on.
  • rambos_ride
    rambos_ride Senior Contributor
    BJ__TN wrote:
    Dan, Ken Cates, posted a number for a master cylinder (MC2796) from Oreilley Auto Parts. It is a direct replacement. Runs around $65 tax included.
    Get wheel cylinders from NAPA as well as shoes I got shoes for my Hornet front: TS 263 Rear: TS 55 I don't know if they are the same for your car. Rears should be the same but the fronts are a wider shoe on the Hornet.
    Bob

    Funny you mentioned Ken's page - having been in "Custom" mode for the last few years with the 49 project, Ken's page hasn't been much more than a passing reference for me from time to time, and hadn't even thought about it in regards to parts info for the 50 when...

    Today I got an email from Maico, from Germany, who had found my website through another hot rod forum (sorry, guys I gotta spread the love ;) ) where I had posted about my "Barn Find".

    Turns out Maico has a 50 Super 6 and was looking for a source for a head gasket and I referred him to Kens Page, and Dale Cooper.

    Of course I sent him a link to this Forum and gushed about all of you - hopefully he'll join up!

    Hudson Love is truly Global!
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    I think the best head gasket are those ones the Maas's have, if they don't have em, then cooper has them. I hear they seal real well.
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