Changing motor mounts

faustmb
faustmb Senior Contributor
edited November -1 in HUDSON
Now that I finally got a set of motor mounts that will work, I'm trying to figure out the best way to lift the engine.



It is on a '50 Pacemaker. I don't have an engine hoist, so I will have to raise the engine from below. There is not too much real estate to park a jack under. I only have to lft one side at a time, 1/2-3/4" looks like it should give enough clearance.



Any ideas?



Matt

Comments

  • rambos_ride
    rambos_ride Senior Contributor
    faustmb wrote:
    Now that I finally got a set of motor mounts that will work, I'm trying to figure out the best way to lift the engine.

    It is on a '50 Pacemaker. I don't have an engine hoist, so I will have to raise the engine from below. There is not too much real estate to park a jack under. I only have to lft one side at a time, 1/2-3/4" looks like it should give enough clearance.

    Any ideas?

    Matt

    Well - I'll suggest to go ahead and spend some of your hard earned monies and buy a cherry picker for yourself. You'll spend far more time trying to work around the issue and possibly brake more parts in the long run trying to "jury rig" one.

    I rented or borrowd engine hoists for years, far exceeding the total cost of buying one back then (450.00) or especially buying one now (less than 200.00)

    It might not be money you want to spend right now, but a cherry picker comes in handy for moving many more things than just installing an engine in a car...once you have one in your tool aresenal you'll wonder why you never bought one!

    2 Ton Foldable 179.99
    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=35915

    1 Ton Foldable 139.99
    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93840
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Matt:



    When I recently dropped my Oil Pan for some much needed cleaning, I had a crank shaft in the way when I went to put it back on.



    I put a piece of 2x12 (12 inches long) under the front of the engine and lifted with my 2 1/2 ton floor jack - after I removed the nuts on the front mounts.



    I noticed I lifted more than I needed but I heard no real cracking and breaking of parts from the gear box etc.....cleared the top of the mount bolts.



    This may not be the "right way" but it got the job done for me. And I had all the tools already. I just had to bum a piece of 2x12 from a friend.



    I could not find a socket shallow enough to fit on the crank bolt and still have a ratchet on it to turn the crank out of the way. It was just touching the radiator so I went with the wood block lift.
  • nick s
    nick s Senior Contributor
    matt, you can get enough lift with a 2X4 and floor jack under the oil pan sump. put the new ones loose in the ears on the block before you let it down. then let down part way line up the mounting bolts at the amc mounts are tight to the hole edges. then drop down the rest of the way. be sure you have your new nuts, I think the orig are 7/16 fine and the AMC are 7/16 course (or maybe theyre metric - i forget now.)
  • faustmb
    faustmb Senior Contributor
    I was rained out again last night :( I am trying to do this in a very small single car garage, so the car (or me) has to be outside to have work area in the front of the car.



    Hopefully I can get to it tonight.



    Thanks for the tips,



    Matt
  • 464Saloon
    464Saloon Senior Contributor
    I did the same as Nick. It will work.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    This is actually very good to know. I just removed the radiator to remove the pump to be rebuilt. I can get a good look at my mounts and I will just have to order some from K-Gap.
  • 464Saloon
    464Saloon Senior Contributor
    You can use AMC mounts too from a 258 straight six. I went this route and they dropped right in. Supposedly much stronger than the original Hudson design ones.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    How much to they cost and do you have any part numbers?
  • 464Saloon
    464Saloon Senior Contributor
    Pacemaker500 wrote:
    How much to they cost and do you have any part numbers?

    They were pretty inexpensive. I will have to check my file when I get home and pull up the cost and part#. Will let you know later tonight or tomorrow.
  • faustmb
    faustmb Senior Contributor
    Pacemaker500 wrote:
    This is actually very good to know. I just removed the radiator to remove the pump to be rebuilt. I can get a good look at my mounts and I will just have to order some from K-Gap.



    This is why I got into this too. I pulled the radiator out to do some cleaning and maintenance, and decided to change these too.



    Here's a thread with part numbers, and cautions...



    http://www.classiccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11500



    I'll let you know how it goes,



    Matt
  • faustmb
    faustmb Senior Contributor
    I finally got the mounts swapped out. I was able to jack the engine up by the pan as described above.



    As Nick mentioned with his mounts, the threads on my AMC motor mounts don't match either. One is a fine thread, the other is OEM. The originals were definately toast, one fell apart as soon as I lifted the engine.



    Dan,

    I plan to add an engine hoist to my garage as soon as I get a garage;) I am between houses since the move, still in a apt for a few more weeks.



    Matt
  • mars55
    mars55 Senior Contributor
    An oddity is that NAPA lists two different part numbers for AMC six motor mounts. 602-1161 for 1970 to 1972 and 602-1162 for 1973 and later. Others just list the 2280 number for all years.
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