Removing Water Dist. Tube

[Deleted User]
edited November -1 in HUDSON
OK. I have the pump off now since there was a leak found when I jacked up the front end to drop the oil pan and put in new shocks.



I still think it was the gasket between the pump and block as that is where I found the leakage once I got the radiator and fan out for a better look. All the bolts were tight, but maybe not tight enough.



I will still have the pump rebuilt/replaced as the Hudson parts guys deem needed.



One thing I would like to check is the distribution tube.



How does one remove it (the tube) properly?

Comments

  • Ed, In order to remove the water distribution tube, you have to remove the radiator,water pump and fan. If you are lucky you then can extract it. Otherwise you have to remove the grill as well. OK so lets assume that everything is out of the way. Get a pair of vise-grips and carefully clamp onto the tab of the water distribution tube. If you didn't know, there is a tab that is bent parallel to the face of block. Pry it up. Take the vice-grips and pull straight out toward the front of the car. Sometimes they come out easy. Sometimes not. Lets assume you've pulled it all the way out. {About 28" worth}. Now check for all the openings to be opened up and not crushed shut. Make SURE the openings along the top ridge are all OPEN. If they aren't opened,no cooling gets around the water jackets around the cylinder and ...crack!!! After all openings are opened up,clean the built up crud in the jacket out. Then replace it in the block and carefully bend the tab over. Replace the water pump, fan and radiator. {If you have to replace the grill,do that first.} Your car will run cooler and there is no more fear of cracked water jackets. The water distribution tube SHOULD be brass. This is the one you want. However I have seen steel{yes steel} water distribution tubes. Do NOT attempt to reuse steel. Get a brass one. Good luck Ed.
  • 464Saloon
    464Saloon Senior Contributor
    If you go on Ken Cates site their is a section done by Rudy Bennet on modifying the tube for better flow. According to his write up, AMC did this in the 55 and up motors. Basically you drill a couple of extra holes and enlarge a couple. Mine turned out to be already done. Either modified, changed in the past or being a late 54 maybe that is what it got in the first place. Something to think about since you will be there. By the way Hudzilla is right on, that is how mine came out. Was pretty easy unlike most of the rest of the rebuild.
  • Thank you, Hudzilla and 464Saloon.



    Yes, my tube is brass. Yes, I see the bent tab. Yes, I have seen the write up on Ken Cates' site.



    I just needed to know how to properly get it out.



    One more question.....How does one clean out the 28" part of the block? Should I look for a decent wire brush and put it on a dowel and chuck it up in the drill?
  • One real easy way to clean out that long narrow passageway is to use a rifle barrel cleaner . One thats used for a 22 cal would likely work the best.
  • Pacemaker500 wrote:
    Thank you, Hudzilla and 464Saloon.



    Yes, my tube is brass. Yes, I see the bent tab. Yes, I have seen the write up on Ken Cates' site.



    I just needed to know how to properly get it out.



    One more question.....How does one clean out the 28" part of the block? Should I look for a decent wire brush and put it on a dowel and chuck it up in the drill?



    When you bend the tab, and grip it with something suitable, such as a vice grips, you will need to pull with a slow and consistent motion, level with the tube. Don't pull up, or left or right, or down. Ease it out, with a firm force, not too brute, but if it offers resistance gradually increase the force till it smoothly moves. You don't want to crush, bend or distort the tube, they are not the strongest items in the world. I don't know what to tell you if it is stuck, I guess some flushing, and a few prayers are in order, perhaps.



    I would use all of the advice available for improving the cooling, and clean the tube up nice. inside and out. Flush the intenal block the best you can, and take the advice of others, use a good gun barrel cleaner, or other device to suitably clean the inside of the block.



    I would not stick anything rotary (or spinning) in your block, unless you are prepared for worst case scenario.



    When it comes time to reinstall the tube, make sure you take the same care and caution you did to take it out, when you put it back in. slowly ease it back in, straight, DO NOT BEND IT! if it offers any resistance, pull it back out, look for any bright spot where perhaps it might be too high, or signs of crud that might not have come out, or got knocked loose, but still remains in the block. DO NOT USE ANY TOOLS O REINSTALL THE TUBE! This includes a rubber mallet, BFH, the wife's shoe, or any other tool laying around. The tube needs to seat, the same as it did before, and you need to ensure that it properly fits. This all sounds easier said than done. Remember, they're not making these tubes, anymore.



    Above all, exercise PATIENCE! if it does not go right, stop, and walk away for a while. don't try to do this frustrated, or you will be looking for another tube!



    Best of luck to you on your work.



    Hudsonkid.
  • Thanks, everyone, for all the wrod of caution and guidance.



    I'll let you know how it goes.
  • Nearly got it out. Minimal scoring of surface by Vise-Grip.



    Is there a way to only take out the top section of the grill so I can pull the tube completely?
  • I got it out!!! I took the top section of the grill/hood latch section out. Then I took the nuts off the engine mounts and lifted the engine 3/4" and the tube slid right out.
This discussion has been closed.