TwinH - Carb Options?

rambos_ride
rambos_ride Senior Contributor
edited November -1 in HUDSON
Well - the battery charger showed up at my door today, just as I was leaving for a 13+ hour day @ work + another 3 on the road :mad: :D :mad:

So - I'll be trying to start the 50 soon and if its good to go, I'd like to find out what it's going to take to get the TwinH setup?

Basically I have the intake, and 2 carbs that are very suspect - meaning the look like they're parts carbs...

So, to be stock I'd need carbs, linkage, air-cleaners, any other odds or ends - I think I remember some mention of a cross over tube?

Is there another type of carb(s) that will work? Like a Holley or other?

Comments

  • Unknown
    Unknown
    no, wa-1's work. they're not terrible to find.



    send a picture of everything you got for your twin H, and I will let you know what you need, almost exact.



    hardest part will be the main linkage piece, that gets bolted to the head. all other linkage, you can make. springs are available from the parts store, etc...
  • 7XPacemaker
    7XPacemaker Senior Contributor
    I have heard that Ford 300 six cylinder Carter carbs work also, with some work. Frank Meyers in Ohio has a setup like this....
  • bob ward
    bob ward Senior Contributor
    How old are the youngest WA1 carbs?
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    bob ward wrote:
    How old are the youngest WA1 carbs?



    Without looking up in the manual I'm guessing late 1930s thru mid fifties. Most didn't have the auto choke and hudson may have been the last to use this carb on the twin H setups. The twin H carbs have the larger bore cast iron base and it is stamped with the # 340. You'll want to try to find a pair with brass tags still attached, # 968S or 2113. Kits are available for about $30/each
  • Nevada Hudson
    Nevada Hudson Senior Contributor
    That narrow block 262 that was offered from '48-'50 is a really good engine. No head gasket problems like the Hornet.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    The 968S carbs have an extra check ball in the idle circuit that doesn't show in the rebuild schematic. It's supposed to smooth the idle. I have them in mine but it drove me nuts trying to find where the extra check ball came from. I'm still trying to get my carbs sorted out. Now they don't want to pull under a load but rev fine out of gear. Is it possible that now that the carbs are working correctly the timing is off or the vacuum advance isn't working now?



    Harry
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    W 1s have manual chokes, WA-1s have automatic chokes
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    My auto chokes are not working, since I'm not sure they are all there it's no wonder. I'm thinking of converting them to manual chokes. Or I'll see who has choke assembly rebuild kits. I was a pretty cool tool the other day. It is an automatic choke tester. It is a T shaped tool you hook to an air chuck. The air coming out one side is hot, the other side is cold. So with a hot engine you can point the cold side at the choke and see if it closes and when an engine is cold you can point the hot side at the choke and see if it opens. It's only eighty bucks which is only a lot if you only use them once in awhile but if I had a carb shop I would definately own one. Most of my equipment at work is diesel so I really can't justify buying one for work, dang.



    Harry
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    I have a manual choke tester, but shes cooking right now. Hope you all have plenty and a happy t-day.
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