What's Missing From This TwinH Setup?

Sounds like you've got a Hornet manifold and Wasp carbs, they've got a narrower bolt patten than the ones for Hornets, also you need all the linkage, springs, spring anchors, etc.

Dan;

the carbs run parrellel, as a matter of fact each carb feeds three cylinders separately. It's a heck of a system but it has to run together or nothing runs right. Is the tube you're asking about the fuel line from the front carb to the back? That's the only cross over tube I can think of that you're seeing. Mine is 5/16 tubing, it T's off at the front carb and goes to the back carb.

Harry

...The tube on the manifold is a vacume balance tube. It is made from cast ends connected by a tube ... about 1 inch in diameter. ...

Okay, Dan....

First off those carbs are terrific, compared to what I started with. What do you want, rebuilt ones? geez. I had some that had rusted throttle plates....
[Dan] I rarely seem to get a break..maybe I got lucky this time!

For building character... let me tell you how hudsondad handled my twin H set-up....
[Dan] They say adversity builds character..if that's true then I've got all the character I'll ever need!

I know for a fact he has a "few" set-ups...
however, I had to buy an intake (just an intake, no carbs, nothing) at Hershey in 04, also picked up a few carbs. I used my exhaust manifold, he drilled it for me, he also made me the two carb linkages, and the heat riser tube. However, I needed a main linkage, the one that bolts down to the head, and it held me up for some time, I ended up buying one at Doc's meet in 05 for $50. Hudsondad made the bellcrank for me, as well. The balance tube, he gave me one that was severely bent, and I had to cut a piece of tube from Home Depot down to the right length, and trim it to fit inside of the tube ends (the parts that bolt to the manifold) I used a piece of electrical conduit, which was real close to the right diameter, if you need to make one...

I guess what I am saying, is nothing in life is easy, that's worth doing. I guess in one hand I feel pissed that hudsondad didn't give me a twin H set-up to bolt on to my hudson, but the other hand, I got to say, I appreciate mine way more, for the sheer amount of work and time I got in it. I'm proud that I had to repair air cleaners, find parts, figure it out, and ultimately, I'm reall glad for the help that I did get.

[Dan] Parents are supposed to make life hard on their children to insure they learn the tough lessons - I just want the parts@!

There are folks on here that have the parts you need, and several have come forward. I will give you a list of what to do and what you need to do this right... here you go....

top down (sorta)...

2 twin H air cleaners or equivalent, look for paper filter ones, the oil bath ones I personally feel don't let the engine breathe as well, but you can pick up the large oil bath ones cheap, and I can give you the part number for the paper filters to convert them. (and part number for the smaller paper filter style ones)

[Dan] I've got a lead on a set but don't know which style - I'd prefer the paper filter style.

2 WA-1 carbs, matched set, make sure they got 340 on the base, look for a pair of 968s or 2113s.

[Dan] Both have the 340 base - score again!

rebuild kits for said carbs, I would venture yours, if the gaskets, and the accelerator pumps, etc... look decent.

[Dan] The kits are a few years old but the packages are unopened and the gaskets look ok and not folders or bent.

gasket stacks for the carbs, several, these are available from Dale cooper, they are pre-stapled, I think you need 4 of these, two for each carb.

[Dan] Really? I'd think these WA-1 carbs where fairly commonplace and used acrossed farm and vehicle applications of the time...hasn't anyone ever found pre made spacers gaskets?

These kinds of spacers are used on bazillions of intake sysems...something surely should x-ref or match exact...I only ask because sandwiching gaskets on a carb base is a asking for vacuum leaks

2 heat shields, stainless from Bill Albright, these are nice, reasonably priced, an ready to bolt on.

[Dan] Good to know - I have sheets of stainless and tools - does anyone have a pattern?

one intake (looks like you got one...)

one exhaust manifold (hopefully you got that as well)

two heat riser tubes, that go from the manifold to the carbs, you can make these, you can use the one you got from the original two barrel set-up as a pattern, simple flare, and bend, and you just want to duplicate the hole in the manifold for the other carb. Also, you could use the other tube off your 8 cylinder motor, and just bend it carefully, then you got the one from the two barrel and the one from the 8, which may be what I did, when I think about it.

balance tube. you need to at least find the ends, if not a good tube assembly. Here's what's weird, it seems some of these don't bolt directly on, perhaps these were sized per intake, I figure they should be a universal fit, but this is one item I had to make, I had a bent tube, but used electrical conduit, from home depot, of the similar diameter. gaskets (2) for these are available from dale cooper as well.

[Dan] I think if needed I can fabricate the ends - although it would be better to find a set. As I would have to use steel and this would have different expansion/contraction rates than the manifold and possibly cause cracks or pre-mature leaks...

two springs for the carbs, I got these at Autozone, and will try to get you a picture, these I mounted to give the carbs some resistance....

fuel line to feed the rear carb. Also, a block (splitter) to separate the feed from the pump at the front carb, make your own, not a big deal. I also might recommend using the AMC (83 pacer) fuel pump, and having a fuel hose made by someone that does hydraulic hoses, mine cost about $20 to have made, well worth it.

I'm not going to get into the heat riser, but you best make sure that is all there and functioning, not loose, etc....

I included a parts list for Dale Cooper, included a manifold gasket set, which I did not list, but you need those gaskets, might want to see if that includes the main intake/exhaust gasket, so you don't double order that one. it should have exhaust pipe gasket too.

I wish I would have written down all of the bolts and fasteners down, but you are on your own there... If you make your own linkage, you will need some of those clevis things, one or two ball and sockets swivels, and a real good hardware store should have those. another thing are those linkage clips, that are sorta hard to find, a real good auto parts store will have those, not a pep boys, or autozone, but a napa, or car quest.

[Dan] I'll try to heavily document the process I go through to make this setup work. Including pics of the carb rebuild process...


pair of heat shields for Bill A... $15 + shipping (sorry if I got the price wrong)
27029E MANIFOLD GASKET SET (4 PC)- 1948-54 $25.
27029 MANIFOLD TO BLOCK GASKET - 1948-56 $12.
2617 TWIN H POWER BALANCE TUBE GASKETS $3 PAIR
10004 CARE MOUNTING GASKET IBBL- $3. (4 of these, I think this is the stack)
pair of springs from Autozone ($5)
misc hardware bolts, clevis', linkage rod, etc... $50

[Dan] Good start to a list of needed parts - let's try to expand and get more detail...

Aircleaners, be prepared to spend anywhere from $25 each to $200 for a nice pair. these are hot commodities. I bought a pair of oil bath at the Carlisle meet for $25, the are dented, but not rusted, and need work.

Main linkage, is the hardest to find piece, expect to pay at least $50, maybe more. I would think that if you could buy a twin H set-up for $200-300 you may be better off, sell the items you don't need. Look for a set-up that has linkage, and aircleaners.

[Dan] Ken shared a picture of someone who installed a cable throttle setup for a TwinH (earlier in this thread...) Honestly this is such a simple and elegant alternative to trying to fabricate and/or source all the OEM linkage parts that I am going to implement a similar setup on the 50 using a universal cable and a couple of brackets. The cable setup takes less space and if I use a generic cable - readily available at any parts store.