Help! My jet won't fly!

[Deleted User]
[Deleted User]
edited November -1 in HUDSON
My Jet has decided it dosen't want to fly very well.:mad: It seems to strain to get up to speed, like it might be starving on fuel, everything has been replaced or rebuilt, like the carb, points plugs, wires, vacum advance, coil, fuel pump, gas tank, I set the timming a little bit fast and it seemed to help some. Anybody got some ideas??:confused: I also got the overdrive in, don't work. I am starting to get discouraged here.:mad:





Thanks, Barry Smedley:(

Comments

  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Sounds like you covered all. I had the same problem on a 53, run great to a point, then would do the same thing. I stumbeled on a line right before the fuel pump, it was collapsing under power. It looked great, then feeling it showed it was real soft. After replacing , all the power I needed. Hope this helps.
  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    Two thoughts:



    First, you could isolate the tank and the fuel line from the equation by running a temporary rubber hose from your fuel pump to a gasoline can on the floor of the car, then take it out for a drive. At least then (assuming you still have problems) you've confined the problem to the engine area.



    Second, regarding the overdrive, a bit of good cheer: most of the overdrive problems I've seen, tend to be electrical and don't call for a complete overhaul or anything. We can help you through this; chances are that others have had the same particular problem you have, now. For starters, when you push in the knob, does it NOT go into overdrive after lifting the accelerator at a speed over 30-35? If so, it may be as simple as the fact that the cable is not attached correctly to the operating lever on the side of the overdrive. When the knob is pushed in, you should still have maybe 1/8" before the knob "bottoms out". This gap helps to indicate that the lever on the overdrive has rotated fully BEFORE the control cable "ran out of space".
  • SamJ
    SamJ Senior Contributor
    I had these symptoms with an older Hudson and finally sourced them to the timing gears. I can't remember if the 202 has gears or a chain, but at any rate, could incorrect adjustment/installation in this area be the problem? Did the car run perfectly before and then suddenly show these symptoms? :cool:
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Thanks guys, It has never run "perfect" since I have got it running, but it has ran better than it is now. I will check all of this and let you guys know know.



    Barry
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    The Jet has a timing chain, so it won't be in this area, unless you have it timed wrong initially. There is a procedure for checking this on page 40 of the instruction manual. Otherwise, check obvious things like primary ignition voltage, it could be bad ignition switch lowering the voltage. Check with a voltmeter at the coil. If it is fuel starvation this will usually show by a spit-back throught he carburettor. If you can't find the fault, pay my fare to the U.S. and I'll fix it for free! Good luck,

    Geoff.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Don't forget, a n exhaust pipe or muffler collapased on the inside will give the same symptoms. Drop the pipe off the exhaust manifold and try it.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Coil polarity, maybe?
  • Hudsonrules
    Hudsonrules Senior Contributor
    :) Don't give up. I know the feeling of disgusted, but hanging in there and asking questions and tinkering with the car is an education, sometimes in patience. Do a compression test,possibly valve issues. I once had a '51 Hudson super six that would idle fine, but would not go much over 30mph. Lots of swearing, some beer, more beer, then when my head felt better, I replaced the points and what a difference! Turned out the pooints were burnt. Good Luck. Arnie
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Barry;

    I'm in the same position with the 55 Hash, new electronic ignition, new coil, carbs rebuiltt, new fuel pump, tank boiled out, new fuel lines from the tank to the carb. I just keep chasing symptoms without hitting on the cause. I'm gonna haul her down to Bill A's and have him look her over. I'm missing something obvious and sometimes you have to bite the bullet and let the experts take care of things.



    Harry
  • davegnh
    davegnh Expert Adviser
    Barry, I have talked to several Jet owners and there is sometimes a problem with the linkage from the gas pedal to the carb. Make sure you are getting full movement of the throttle when you step on the pedal, sometimes mis adjustment or bent rods can cause a problem. You think you are getting full throttle but you really aren't. Good luck
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    I checked the vacum last night, and it is getting vacum to the dist. Is it possable that the metering rod or the vacum piston on the carb. could be sticking?? I noticed last night that when I started the engine it leaked some gas out underneath the float bowl. A freind of mine is comming over tonight to borrow some sewing machines for his upholstery, (37 terraplane 2) Maybe between the two of us and the help from you guys maybe we can figure it out.



    Thanks, Barry
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Had the same problem with my 55' Hash (Packard V8). Changed and checked everything and ended up being the primary wire terminal end was set crossways and when the engine started up vacuum advance would pull breaker plate around and hit it. Killing the engine until the vacuum would let the plate go back. Moved terminal and it runs real good. Hope this helps you.

    55 Okie
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    I think we have found the problem, The carb. My freind Bud, came over and fooled with it and got it running better, but still not home yet. Everything checked out good, the vacum, timing and all that stuff. It runs good until you accelerate and it kind stumbles but then when you give it more gas it comes out of it. We think it is in the unloader on the carb.

    I did find out one thing, when you kick that old Jet down it comes to life!



    will keep you updated.



    Barry Smedley
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Thats great, thanks for the update. With all the information posted on this thread ,we now have more areas to look for if we encounter some of the same problems.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    What we found was the unloader flap valve was set WAY off, setting that alone made an improovement, Where we're at now is we don't think the metering rod is set right, blubbers untill you get up to a speed where it can handle more gas, yet still blubberes some . Don't have the gauge to set it so it'll have to be some T+E adjusting. This all shows what many of us think, DON"T mess with a bunch of things at once,fix things in sequence and eventually you'll get there. Yeah , that thing cuts a pretty good boogie when it clears out the excess fuel and takes off !! Guy's got a nice little car.
  • junkcarfann
    junkcarfann Expert Adviser
    Geoff C., N.Z. wrote:
    The Jet has a timing chain, so it won't be in this area, unless you have it timed wrong initially.Geoff.



    I respectfully disagree..timing chains can stretch, and result in the symptoms you describe. Also, the gears the chain rides on also wear, compounding the problem.



    When I worked full-time in garages, many times cars with very little power would limp in, and changing the chain (and the gears) restored them.



    In fact, since advancing the timing helped a little, the chain is very much a likely culprit. But advancing the timing will not fix it, because all the valves are opening late when the camshaft timing is late. Advancing the timing only masks the real problem, if it is the chain.



    Also, you state that it ran better before, but not perfect. If it is the chain, that indicates that the chain was stretched (worn) when you got it, and has gotten worse. It could be that the chain is simply worn, and wore more as you used the car.



    Furthermore, it could be that the oiling to the chain is not occurring as it should, thus accelerating wear. I do not know about the oiling design for the chain on this engine. But the stretching of worn chain/gear setups accelerates as they wear.



    Also, worn chains can jump a tooth or more.



    One way of testing a worn timing chain is a compression check...If all the valves are opening late, the engine cannot inhale the proper amount of air, thus does not compress the proper amount, thus all cylinders are lower than normal. But on an old car, unless the engine has been recently rebuilt, the compression is likely lower anyways.



    At this point, unless the fuel check Jon mentioned, or the tailpipe check Geoff mentioned, do not locate the culprit, I would pop off the front of the engine and check the chain.



    Again, if you replace the chain, seriously consider replacing the timing gears also as a set.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    I agree 100% I've considered this as we go along BUT I always say DON"T jump around , one at a time. We advanced the timeing a wee bit, this will take care of a small amt of wear and altho not perfect the car will run ok. It appears to be over fueled as the exhaust is heavilty sooted and LOTS of fuel odor when running, and yet when you get it up to road speed and hold it down till it can clear out excess fuel it smoothes out and takes off like it's quitin time at the job!! WE' let you all know what happens when we get at adjusting the metering rod, Barry's got to go to his job so we don't have lot's of time to spend on it at a time. ME?? I got a full time job too, doin WHAT I WANNA DO WHEN I WANNA DO IT !!
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