Clifford Headers - A word to the wise
I ordered and received Clifford exhaust headers for my 308 engine. All the holes lined but the header did not fit flush on the block, was off by about 1/4 inch. I called Clifford and they said this was "a 20 year ongoing problem". I sent the one back and they sent me another one. This one is still not flush but is closer than the other and will probably pull down under tightening.
The message here is if you order a header, don't let it sit around while you are doing other things. Check the fit immediately. To Clifford's credit they were very good about exchanging the header and reimbursed me for the freight to ship the one back.
Good luck,
Doug
The message here is if you order a header, don't let it sit around while you are doing other things. Check the fit immediately. To Clifford's credit they were very good about exchanging the header and reimbursed me for the freight to ship the one back.
Good luck,
Doug
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Comments
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Since I am about to pick up some from Clifford in the next week or two, I sent this note to Larry along with the comments about to weld or not weld the slip joint. Here is what he said.
Unfortunately the Hudson header is very hard to make with the flange design that Jack Clifford made.
We made sure that all of the new batch of headers were bolted to a Hudson block before sending them to customers. some of them still have a problem bolting up.
What needs to be done is fit checked on your engine before you ceramic coat them to make sure they fit without any problems + it does need to be welded at the slip joint prior to ceramic.
We are in the middle of designing a new flange that will get rid of the slip joint and make it a lot easier to consistently make a great fitting header.
I don't know how long that will take, but it is in the works right now.
So far, we haven't had any problems with the last batch of Hudson headers.
Thank you
Larry 6=80 -
I'm one of those owners in the prior post that haven't welded the slip joint on my Clifford headers. Now I'm wondering if I should.
The only part of this that doesn't make any sense to me, aside from the fact there was no mention of this procedure when I talked to Larry prior to my order, or that there was no mention in the instructions, is how can he charge me extra for the ceramic coating if they still need to be welded, which would of course burn thru the ceramic? (Rhetorical question only....just thinking out loud!)0 -
Here is another esponse I got from Larry. He responds to e-mails fast.
It is OK not to weld the slip joint. A lot of installers bend the tube and cause unseen problems is the reason I like to see guys weld the slip joint once the headers are bolted to the block.
I would bolt them on finger tight so the headers have a chance to fit.
The new flange design will be six months in the future. We need to make the header easier to install.
I don't forsee and problems with the header we have now.
Thank you
Larry 6=80 -
I fear the word to the wise has come too late for me too. I had no notion of a slip-joint problem - don't even know what that is- or a fit up problem or a need to weld heat-riser tubes. My internet order in Oct automatically charged me a ceramic coating cost of $100 added to the header cost and then with shipping came to just over $400. Now I am told that welding should be done before the coating - doesnt make sense or result in a secure sense of future success. I tried to email Larry at Clifford, but my email was returned as not deliverable. Will I have to wait forever for a product that won't work ? Should I try and cancel my order before it is shipped? Is there no email address that works?0
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If you can't contact the vendor, calling your CC company to cancel the charge should get someone's attention.0
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Here is the address I have been using and he responds to me on a regular basis.
larry@cliffordperformance.net0 -
courtesyman wrote:I fear the word to the wise has come too late for me too. I had no notion of a slip-joint problem - don't even know what that is- or a fit up problem or a need to weld heat-riser tubes. My internet order in Oct automatically charged me a ceramic coating cost of $100 added to the header cost and then with shipping came to just over $400. Now I am told that welding should be done before the coating - doesnt make sense or result in a secure sense of future success. I tried to email Larry at Clifford, but my email was returned as not deliverable. Will I have to wait forever for a product that won't work ? Should I try and cancel my order before it is shipped? Is there no email address that works?
I am wondering if you ordered the right part? The headers sell for 339.00 so if you got them coated and shipped to UT for 61.00 you did very very well.0 -
Yes I made a mistake on the math - here is the correction. $339 for headers + a required $100 coating + shipping of $32 for total $471. But you are missing the point of my post if price is the focus. I will gladly pay that for a workable set of headers, but I had no advance knowledge of so many issues with them, some that would be impossible to solve if welding is required after they arrive ceramic coated. With Larry discussing a flange gap and misalignment as a design flaw to be fixed at a later date I question the advisability of my order. On the other hand I am thankful and amazed that they are willing to provide parts for the Hudson as this cannot be a viable seller. I would feel more secure if quality control was done by the manufacturer and not the Hudson owner as installation is attempted.0
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Oh I am not missing your point (point well taken) I just noticed the price also. I live about 60 miles from Clifford so I plan to pick up mine myself. I have been talking with Larry both by e-mail and phone quite a bit about the headers. I did not see on the site where coating was available much less mandatory. He has been pretty clear with me that he wants me to fit them to be sure they are OK before I coat them. I sent him a last e-mail concerning why he isn't using a fixture to check the headers before they are sent to customers. I worked for one header manufacturer and all headers were assemble in a fixture and then checked again before packaging. I don't remember ever having a complaint about gaps or holes not lining up. Being a QA Engineer with an OEM now, something like this could be a disaster in warranty costs. We will see what his response is on Monday as I have been e-mailing from my work.0
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I got my headers in with no problem but here is one nobody mentioned, the draft tube won't fit anymore. Anybody else run into this?0
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The Hornet that I bought had a set on it, installed by po. By the looks of it the mounting bracket for the draft tube was relocated,which is what you need to do. Bolt headers to block, leave intake off , install draft tube and see where it needs to be placed to make it fit - then modify bracket to make it fit. I do not have the slip fit feature welded,makes them easier to install. I use Walker acustiseal to seal the slip joint. I had my set coated after Gumout removed white paint coating. Lou Cote0
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It looks to be more than that. I am thinking it is going to have to be cut and have a slip joint put in it. It's interesting with all the talk about these headers ans I picked mine up at Clifford personally, that no one mentioned the draft tube being a problem.0
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464Saloon wrote:It looks to be more than that. I am thinking it is going to have to be cut and have a slip joint put in it. It's interesting with all the talk about these headers ans I picked mine up at Clifford personally, that no one mentioned the draft tube being a problem.
I've mentioned the draft tube problem before. It won't fit with the shorty headers.
We cut off a bent draft tube and clamped on a piece of radiator hose to the stub that will clear. The rubber hose hangs down to the old height of the steel draft tube, but bends to clear the header and exhaust.
Seems to be working fine.
Mark0 -
Just a Thought regarding Draft Tube
Why not consider a simple PVC System like I have installed up on my Hudson's by inserting a grommet & 5/8 hose to (1) air filter then use a Mopar oil breather Cap with a hose to any PCV Valve & vacume line. Persoally I think PVC Systems are one of the things that help engines last much longer then they used to with 'draft Tubes'...0 -
I'm not very crazy about draft tubes either.
I have yet to do it, but I'd rather use a pcv type arrangement that does not vent into the intake. A restriction in the oil filler tube, pcv valve on the draft tube, using the air displacement of the crankcase to keep a negative pressure inside the crankcase.
Just haven't taken the time of figure it out for the Hudson. I have done such to old Harleys, its hard to leak oil when every seal and gasket in the crankcase is trying to suck air in instead of push it out.
One of these days, I'll get around to it.
Mark0 -
PCV
Under little 'Holiday cheer' with my Hornets all tucked in & sleeping out back I incorrectly mentioned my PCV System...
The PCV valve is in my Hornet valve cover with to the intake vacume using a Mopar breather cap hosed to the bottom of a Holley 4bbl base plate just like on chevy mtr's and works very well.0 -
Ol Racer, did you eliminate the breather tube all together when you installed the pcv valve? I would love to see a picture of your setup.0
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Yes,
I bought a grommet at an Auto Store then since it went into the cover deeper than wanted I cut notches in the back side at 6-12-3 & 9 o'clock with a razor so the vapors could escape... On my other Hudson I cut off the stock 'tube' just before it curves down then inserted a PCV valve into the tube with a grommet.
I havent had any luck posting pictures yet, but I could email one.0
This discussion has been closed.
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