Radials for my 49 resto?
I have just searched the archives for info on this subject, and it would appear that there are varying opinions on radials vs. bias ply tires. While I dont like the way they look, I am leaning heavily towards radials as I plan to drive my car quite a bit once it is done (this spring).
I realize many here have strong opinions on this subject, but what I am really trying to decide is WHICH radials to buy. Are any of you currently running the following tires on your step downs? If so, are you pleased with the way they ride and look?
P215/75R15 COKER CLASSIC 2 1/2 INCH WHITEWALL TIRE
P215/75R15 American Classic 2 3/4" White Wall
P215/75R15 B.F.Goodrich SILVERTOWN RADIAL 2 1/2 INCH
In the past half hour I have looked at the photos of the above mentioned tires and I am now leaning back towards the bias plys. I get the feeling the radials are going to exactly like what I dont want....... like I am putting new radials on a 1949 car. Can someone post pics of theirs to help me decide? I think I may just sacrifice drivability for looks.
I realize many here have strong opinions on this subject, but what I am really trying to decide is WHICH radials to buy. Are any of you currently running the following tires on your step downs? If so, are you pleased with the way they ride and look?
P215/75R15 COKER CLASSIC 2 1/2 INCH WHITEWALL TIRE
P215/75R15 American Classic 2 3/4" White Wall
P215/75R15 B.F.Goodrich SILVERTOWN RADIAL 2 1/2 INCH
In the past half hour I have looked at the photos of the above mentioned tires and I am now leaning back towards the bias plys. I get the feeling the radials are going to exactly like what I dont want....... like I am putting new radials on a 1949 car. Can someone post pics of theirs to help me decide? I think I may just sacrifice drivability for looks.
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Comments
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Dennis, I beleive that you and I are in the same neck of the woods. I can give you some insight on the subject because I drive my cars alot. What's your # I'll give you a buzz... Thanks.... Wilton Ct.0
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My preference is for 225 radials if you looking to drive serious miles. However, on my 49 i have the 760 's BFG Silvertons bias and all things being equal they're not bad. This is how I would rate the follow tires on ride and drivability.......
Ride Appearance Quality Cost
Coker Classic Bias 760 C+ B+ B B
Remmington Bias 760 C B+ B B-
BFG SIlVERTON bias 760 B A A B+
Coker Cl radials 235's B+ B B C+
Hanooks radias 225's A C B A
These are all the tires that I can Rate... Would luv to see other impressions...0 -
Hi Dennis , Hudson Dave here . I am and have been a Distributor For Diamond Back Radials WWW Tires For many years . I have had great success with Radials on step downs and pre war cars . The best size for a step down I have found through experience Is a P225-75=15 which is the same as a 760-15 which is the optional size for a step-down as per Hudson spec book. Available in 2 3/4 inch white wall or 3 1/4 inch white wall, with or without the beauty ring, which is a raised outer edge of the white wall. These were put on luxury cars in the late 40's and early 50's. Several members of this formum and the HET Club purchased WWW Radials from www.FatWhiteWalls.com . (Hudson Dave) If I can help In any way give me a call 352-564-4284
The best thing about these tires Is you have to look close to tell they are NOT bias . Thanks Hudson Dave
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Dennis, One of the issues of going to the SBR tires is the amount of movement within the sidewall of the tire. This flexability can cause your Hudson rim to split particularlly at high speeds. I would suggest that you consider going to a Mopar 49/51 15" wheel rim that has a small "U" indentation in the flat part of the rim where pressed to the center. This will permit you to increase the fracture strength of the rim and be comfortable with the SBR tires at all speeds and miles. I selected a Firestone P225-75=15 tire for my car that I have raced at the Bonneville Salt Flats. I have had no problems at high speeds and am about 15k miles on the tires. Good luck with your choice.0
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I installed Coker radials when I restored my '54. I then changed them to bias-ply 7.60's to compete as original in AACA. The bias-plys rode better and steered easier (non-power steering), but you will find that the car will wander easier and try to stay in any ruts in the road. Overall I like the bias-ply better, but my car is not for touring.0
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If you are going to have a driver I would go with radials. Original is OK with bias ply but for overall driving radials are the way to go. I got mine from Hudson Dave, nice looking and great driving.0
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Dennis,
When I restored my Brougham I went with Bias Ply because I wanted the car to be original. I used BF Goodrich 7.10x15. I found that the tires sqealed a lot on corners and on the highway wandered at times.
Last year while reading the WTN, I found an article by George Schhmitt.
He wrote many articles for the WTN and was considered to be a Hudson guru. In this article he wrote about bias versus radial tires. His opinion was that bias tires were better than radials. He suggested that the tire pressure be increased to 35-39 pounds instead of the factory suggested 24 pounds. I took his advice and bumped the tire pressures up to 35 pounds and that made a world of differance in the way the car handled.
The tires don't sqeal on corners anymore and the car does not wander on the highway.
Your restoring a convertable so the suggested tire size would be 7.60x15
I also recently found another tire company out of Hersey PA that sold Goodyear tires in 7.10x 15 and 7.60x15 with wide whites. I beleive that Hudson used Goodyear tires only back in 48-49. If I had found these tires I would have put them on instead of the BF Goodrich.
Thats my opinion.0 -
Harry - not posting phone here, but sent you an email. Your private box is full.0
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should be good now ... just emptied...0
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Per Hudsn49's post, I just looked at the Goodyear bias ply 760x15's that Universal Tire in Hershey sells. I was told by the guy there that they are the same tires as the Universal brand (made in the same factory in Indiana, different mold). The difference being that the Universal tire has 3" White walls, and the Goodyear has 2.75". The Good year also has "Good Year" in raised letters in the whitewall section. They charge $30 more per tire for the Goodyear name (licensing costs), so it really is now a matter of which ones look better. We are sandblasting and painting the wheels this weekend, so I have to make up my mind by Monday. Urgh.0
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Dennis,
Here is a picture of tire and hubcap from my '490 -
I would recommend powder coating as opposed to painting. Lasts longer and is more durable. Here is one of my wheels powder coated:0
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I would strongly recommend that you try and drive both radials and bias ply. I know each has put there reviews up but it is probably worth trying each. I had bias plys on my C8 and it was just too skirmy on the road, would not track down the road and the ride was not what I was comfortable with. After switching to radials it road better and it went straight down the road. But to each his own. The radials will also outlast the bias plys as well.0
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Fro driving, Radials, all the way...
Any of you guys have problems with your rims leaking? I'm thinking new tires this spring, radial white walls, and I might just put tubes in them all, to not have to worry...
THOUGHTS???????0 -
I am using my original wheels and have not had any leakers. They were sand blasted and then powder coated as above. The powder coating may have helped seal any leaks that may have been there. You might consider that as an alternative.0
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My original rims were badly pitted in the bead area,wanted to use radials, I hit em real good with a wire brush on the hand grinder, and put POR-15 on the inside only, it smoothed up the pits and likely sealed any tiny pin holes around rivets etc.--not haveing any leak problems after 1 year in use,drive it a lot0
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dennis after having had G78 remington's on my 54 for years, I now running 7.60 Silvertowns. the difference is amazing. the remingtons grabbed grooved pavement where it is barely noticeable with the 7.60's. Can't say for sure that its all size or a combination of size and manufacturer but as far as ride and handling I don't think you will be disapointed in the 7.60 silvertowns. As soon as I had them mounted I left on a 300 mile trip to Carlisle. I would normally have some arm fatigue from the steering wheel on a trip with the old tires, now there was none. I guess I hadn't noticed the fatigue before, but I did notice the lack afterward. the ride is smooth and comfortable.
fwiw I run 32 -34 psi.
of course the suspension and steering was designed around the bias tires where a modern car is designed for radials and power steering.
the remington's did serve well for 25000 miles and were replaced due to age rather than wear so don't worry so much about life differences.0 -
Hi Hudson Dave here. I here all kind of comments about handling with or without Radials . After many years In the Tire business I can give you one bit of advice RUN THE MAXIMUM AIR PRESSER:eek: which is printed on the tire. I had a friend with a 56 Lincoln that HAD Cokers at 45 MPH. It was all you could do to keep It between the lines. Because of the side-walls . We took it to 40 PSI and drove the car again better bet still not right, took It to 55 PSI drove it again 70 MPH no problem . The point Is the type of tire . They make a 35 PSI tire a 41 PSI and a 44 PSI tire . The difference Is IN THE SIDE- WALL. The more air the stiffer the side-wall and less road sway on heavier cars . NOT a plug but he now has 44 PSI Dimond Back WWW Radials with 44 PSI and the car drives perfect . Just a thought . Trust Your Classic To Someone Who Drives One Hudson Dave:)0
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hudsonkid wrote:Fro driving, Radials, all the way...
Any of you guys have problems with your rims leaking? I'm thinking new tires this spring, radial white walls, and I might just put tubes in them all, to not have to worry...
THOUGHTS???????
The early stepdown wheels had the centers riveted to to the rim. That was before tubeless tires were introduced at the factory. later rims were welded. Yes there were instances of leaks due to the riveted construction. This problem persisted for several years as owners upgraded to the tubless design. It effected all brands of cars, not just Hudson. Having said that, I have riveted rims on my 49 and have never had any leaks with the tubeless tires. This was not a BIG problem but did cause a few returns to the tire store. I would imagine that most of those leaky rims were either "repaired" or discarded over the years.0
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