Upgrading a Stepdown Ignition System

You can use a Chrysler system from a slant 6 for ignition for the Hudson cars with either 232, 262 or 308 engines. A 6 volt point system is limited to around 18000 to 20000 volts available at the very best. Then there is the need of point and cam wear requiring constant service. The Chrysler system has 32000 to 35000 available which once mounted and timed will never need service for many years.

Once you have the Hudson and Chrysler distributors on the workbench ,disassemble both units. You'll need to machine .025to .040 off the housing stub that goes into the engine block. The shaft assembly from the Hudson unit fits right in the new aluminum Chrysler housing. Add the pick-up unit and plate assembly followed by the reluctor onto the upper shaft. From there its just follow the Chrysler manual
(any 76-early, 80's) and install the electronic control unit and ballast resistor . Set the reluctor air gap, time the engine and enjoy instant starting, better performance, on less gas.

If you’re a purist and don’t want friends and neighbors to know you aren't 100& Hudson, just mount the control module and ballast resistor under the dash some where out of sight. This is the preferred place anyway because of a cooler air flow than is available if mounted under the hood. Few people will note as the distributor looks like the old one and the coil looks and place look alike. Fewer fellows yet will notice the two wires and plug connector from the distributor to the control module.
Best units for this conversion are 76-84. A remanufactured unit costs less that $100.00 or you could get a junkyard unit for about half.

I would also recommend upgrading your plug wires to acomodate the incerased voltage.

Hope that this information helps.

Well, I picked up a slant six distributor for a '75 Duster. It was only $60-70 including core. Like you said it looks like the housing needs to be chucked up in a lathe and some material removed from the stub diameter. Other than that it looks like all systems go. On to the next step. I recently picked up an old used distributor on ebay, which I'm going to tear apart for the shaft. That way I can keep my original distributor intact, just in case. Keep you posted.

Doug

This is probably a dumb question --- but are all you guys now running a twelve volt system, or can all these mods work with six volts? Reason I ask is its dang hard to hide that twelve volt battery, although I guess it could be done. I like to see the old style six volt under the hood when I gawk in there. Looks more authentic.

I do agree with you that the 12 volt battery does destroy the originaliy look of the car (as does running an alternator) and I swore that I would never convert over to 12 volt. My car always started quickly and ran just fine on 6 volts. I had no plans to add air conditioning, am/fm or any other 12 volt accessories. The problem is, and was, how practical is it to keep on using a system that it is becomming more and more difficult to find parts for? If I burn out a sealed beam, I can now stop at any Wal-Mart, pick one up, install it in the parking lot and be on my way. I have my car to drive and enjoy and don't plan on entering it in the Pebble Beach Classic so if it is a bit less than original, I'll just have to deal with that, but I can keep it on the road with a lot less headaches. This is the same basic reason that I went to electronic ignition. Points are getting harder to find and quite costly when found. Bottom line is that I guess that I'm just cheap. I did put a "Hudson" battery decal on my 12 volt battery, but please don't ask me why. That's my two cents worth.

I think I know the answer to this, but just making sure. In re-assembling the Chrysler distributor with the Hudson shaft in it, I would think I'd want to use the old original advance weights. They appear to be considerably smaller than the '75 Chrysler, which would probably mean it has a smaller advance curve which should be maintained. Is this right?

Thanks, Doug

Use the control box for the mopor ign. I can post the Car Quest parts # later and wireing diagram if you need it. BK.TN.

Use the Hudson advance weights.