Frozen Field Coil Screws

awca12a
awca12a Senior Contributor
edited November -1 in HUDSON
Trying to remove the large screws securing the field coils on a starter but despite using PB and a manual impact driver, the screws won't budge and start to strip.



Before I go the path of drilling, has anyone had experience removing the field coil screws from a 70yr old starter?

Comments

  • Uncle Josh
    Uncle Josh Senior Contributor
    Well, a recent Vintage Truck article said that plain water was a better penetrant than any of the solvents. Makes sense. Water gets in everywhere doesn't it? They said to keep it wet and tap on it a couple of times every day.



    I tried it on some exhaust manifold studs on the 254 and most of them screwed out, and the other one might have if I'd been more patient.



    Might be time for the heat wrench. I have also had good luck with a punch and hammer at the periphery. You'll want to use a new screw anyway. Last result is to drill em out but you've gotta make sure your prick punch is pretty well centered.
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    If you look in the old original electrical service manuals, you will see that these screws were installed with a special lever type clamp holding the screwdriver bit down, and the bit turned by another lever welded to it, so there's not a lot of chance that you will get out with using an ordinary screwdriver - they were put in TIGHT. Go to an electrical servcie shop and see if they perchance still have the proper tools for removing these. Otherwise, drilling out the head of the scew may be your only way.

    Geoff.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    As Geoff said Electrical rebuild shops have a simple but effective clamping station they mount the starter or generator in uses a big screw driver style bit and turn screw with a lever to turn. One time i soaked some with Kroil put the generator in a piece of channel iron to hold it, clamped it with big c- clamps put a big scew driver type bit in my drillpress and used a big pair of channel locks to turn the chuck while my buudy held the drill press handle down and we did get them out . I worked in a electrical shop once were we had the right tool and of course it worked pretty slick . Thanks Chuck G
  • rambos_ride
    rambos_ride Senior Contributor
    Can you get one of these babies on the screws?

    From an older post...
    WHOA! Don't drill them out! I bought this tool and it was the best money I have spent on a tool in a long time. I got ALL 32 of the screws out of my 49 without drilling one of them out! I used a philips bit in all but 1 of them where I used the "left-e" bit that came with the tool.

    shake.jpg

    http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p... eyword=Left-e

    I did heat the heads up and had to work a few in and out - while spraying "Break Free" (similar to WD40) - but all the original threads (nut plates) are intact and I only have to replace the screws

    Here's an idea of what my hinges and screws looked like - about as bad as they could get and they still came out with that tool!

    rustjamb.jpg

    A better 50.00 you can't spend! I think Snap-on sells something similar...
  • hudsonguy
    hudsonguy Senior Contributor
    I'd recommend the Shake N Break tool, as well. Per Dan's earlier recommendation, I bought one, and am amazed how well it works. I'd bet it would take those starter screws right out.



    I think I found mine on Amazon.com
  • rambos_ride
    rambos_ride Senior Contributor
    hudsonguy wrote:
    I'd recommend the Shake N Break tool, as well. Per Dan's earlier recommendation, I bought one, and am amazed how well it works. I'd bet it would take those starter screws right out.

    I think I found mine on Amazon.com

    I just used this tool to pull the rear door from the 1950 Super I picked up a couple of months ago - no heat or penetrant - all of them busted right loose. :D
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    I have used a 1/2" bolt with a key ground in one end to fit the screw slot, then put in a vise to hold it in and turned the bolt hex end with a wrench. I use this metheod on my Model T parts
  • awca12a
    awca12a Senior Contributor
    Thank You all.

    This forum has really made a difference.

    Didn't know about the original tool nor the $50 one but it should do the trick.
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    The picture of the field screw removing clamp, I have found in Motors Auto Repair manual, 1949 edition.

    Geoff.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Geoff

    It would be easy to make one like that but a guy would probably not use it very often .
This discussion has been closed.

Categories

In this Discussion