50 Super Clutch and Trans

rambos_ride
rambos_ride Senior Contributor
edited November -1 in HUDSON
I just moved the 50 outside to get my dually into the shop - I started it and got it to barely roll in first gear.

It feels like the brakes are stuck, but the bad is that when you get to near the top of the clutch pedal travel it starts to grab, but then you let the clutch out and it quits moving (note: I didn't do this manuever more than a couple of seconds!)

I didn't hear any strange noises or grinding sounds - just nothing wanted to move.

The reason I think the brakes are stuck is that it rolls forward but not back under power - plus the brake pedal goes straight to the floor and stays there - lifting the pedal manually doesn't seem to release anything - again making me think it is stuck.

It will be some time before I really dig into this - but I thought I'd start soliciting some thoughts on issues I might be facing, and potential approx costs to redo the transmission and clutch in the 50 Super 6?

Thanks

Comments

  • TOM-WA-
    TOM-WA- Senior Contributor
    I recently replaced my clutch in the wasp. The entire job was around 350-400 if memory serves me right.



    If you want exact info I can certainly get it for you and tell you where I obtained the parts...





    So far I am pleased with the new clutch.







    TOM BARRETT

    MONROE WASHINGTON
  • Dan;



    check your wheel cylinders. I've seen them get stuck when the brakes are applied then not return, so they are still being expanded against the drums. You may have to open the bleeders then try to get the drums off to hone the wheel cylinders and replace the cups.



    Harry
  • I would call Doug Wildrick



    © 2003 - Wildrick Restoration

    1459 E 425 N

    Shelbyville, IN 46176

    Phone: 317-398-4163 - Cell: 317-847-1720



    http://www.vintageautorestoration.com/



    John



    PS: I agree the wheels need to be freed up and brakes repaired as a first step.



    I'd tackle each wheel at a time (repack the bearings and restore the brakes -drums shoes and wheel cyls);



    I'd flush out all of the brake lines for sure-you might be surprised what you will find in them (rust, water, and if there is lots of rust, probably weakened lines too). I bought some SS lines to go on the Super Wasp off ebay. Good brakes would be my 1st priority. The tranny might just need a simple drain the pan, clean it and add new fluid to the FULL mark



    Good luck with it; it seems like you have a winner in that car.
  • YUP, definately ALL new lines,metal and rubber. Visual inspection has proven time and again to be useless. They get rust gobs,loose ruber on the inside, crap floating around that's best just done away with up front .
  • I think water is the biggest enemy and once it starts to condensate in our brake system we get all kinds of problems. That only seems to happen when a car sits for too long or someone mistakenly adds water to the master cylinder. Mostly it's old brake fluid sitting around after being openned then added to the system. I would also look at the rubber lines for signs of swelling or mushiness or getting hard and brittle. The clutch may be fine if it wasn't for the brakes being locked up, it may not but you have to fix the brake problem first.



    Harry
  • 54 HSWH wrote:
    I would call Doug Wildrick



    © 2003 - Wildrick Restoration

    1459 E 425 N

    Shelbyville, IN 46176

    Phone: 317-398-4163 - Cell: 317-847-1720



    http://www.vintageautorestoration.com/



    John



    PS: I agree the wheels need to be freed up and brakes repaired as a first step.



    I'd tackle each wheel at a time (repack the bearings and restore the brakes -drums shoes and wheel cyls);



    I'd flush out all of the brake lines for sure-you might be surprised what you will find in them (rust, water, and if there is lots of rust, probably weakened lines too). I bought some SS lines to go on the Super Wasp off ebay. Good brakes would be my 1st priority. The tranny might just need a simple drain the pan, clean it and add new fluid to the FULL mark



    Good luck with it; it seems like you have a winner in that car.



    All of your rebuild kits for your wheel cylinders are available thru autozone. the master cylinder kit is special order thru autozone. Brake hoses should be either stocked or special order thru autozone. you can figure out the brake lines. You will likely need a few springs, if the pedal is going to the floor, meaning the mechanical backup sounds to be not working. Wheel seals are avaialble from a good local bearing shop, Brake lining, or even new shoes are available from Dave Kostensak (as are the hoses, wheel cylinder kits, etc...)



    As far as Doug Wildrick, I don't think he is doing clutches anymore. His web master (hmmmm, who's that?) took down the information for stepdown clutches, and services. He does however do the multi pack units, and unless something changed, you can still contact him, but I think I am correct on this. He might do a trans rebuild, but you would have to contact him, and I am sure he wants to look at it, before he even gives an estimate.



    Less, I digress, I don't want to speak for Doug on these matters. I am sure he will chime in, if I offered any innaccurate information.



    Someone else is doing clutches for stepdowns, I honestly cannot remember their name right now, but they offer similar service as Doug once did, recork clutch, fluid, gasket, and I think they rebuild pressure plates, set them up, etc... I don't know the cost. Several guys on here have used the products with terrific success, I have not used any of their products, yet.



    As far as throw out bearings, good luck, that is a tough one. I found a NOS one at HET nationals in 04, paid $75, used cores go for $25+ I think Paul Shuster was selling good cores for a decent price at the last Doc's or something. Seals are available, and If memory is correct, there was an article on seal replacement in one of the last couple of WTN's. Sam would know if this is true or not.



    Hope this was helpful!



    Best!

    Rick
  • Uncle Josh
    Uncle Josh Senior Contributor
    Ron Fellows is your new clutch man. Check your WTN



    http://www.geocities.com/hudsonclutchman



    Given that your car is a 50, I assume it's a standard. I drain out the old oil, fill to the top with kerosene, set it stand overnight, rotate through all the gears, drain overnight, and refill with 90W gear oil up to the filler hole on the side.
  • Clutchguy
    Clutchguy Senior Contributor
    I just moved the 50 outside to get my dually into the shop - I started it and got it to barely roll in first gear.



    It feels like the brakes are stuck, but the bad is that when you get to near the top of the clutch pedal travel it starts to grab, but then you let the clutch out and it quits moving (note: I didn't do this manuever more than a couple of seconds!)



    I didn't hear any strange noises or grinding sounds - just nothing wanted to move.



    The reason I think the brakes are stuck is that it rolls forward but not back under power - plus the brake pedal goes straight to the floor and stays there - lifting the pedal manually doesn't seem to release anything - again making me think it is stuck.



    It will be some time before I really dig into this - but I thought I'd start soliciting some thoughts on issues I might be facing, and potential approx costs to redo the transmission and clutch in the 50 Super 6?



    Thanks



    Is this car equipped with Drivemaster?
  • rambos_ride
    rambos_ride Senior Contributor
    Clutch guy wrote:
    rambos_ride wrote:
    I just moved the 50 outside to get my dually into the shop - I started it and got it to barely roll in first gear.

    It feels like the brakes are stuck, but the bad is that when you get to near the top of the clutch pedal travel it starts to grab, but then you let the clutch out and it quits moving (note: I didn't do this manuever more than a couple of seconds!)

    I didn't hear any strange noises or grinding sounds - just nothing wanted to move.

    The reason I think the brakes are stuck is that it rolls forward but not back under power - plus the brake pedal goes straight to the floor and stays there - lifting the pedal manually doesn't seem to release anything - again making me think it is stuck.

    It will be some time before I really dig into this - but I thought I'd start soliciting some thoughts on issues I might be facing, and potential approx costs to redo the transmission and clutch in the 50 Super 6?

    Thanks

    Is this car equipped with Drivemaster?

    Yes, or Super Matic is what I think its called on this car...
  • Clutchguy
    Clutchguy Senior Contributor
    Ah,it is a 50,I always look at your 49 and thought?? Look at the rod that goes from the top clutch cylinder[mounted on the top of the engine]it will attach to the bell-housing cross-shaft.This is probably what is giving you the funny pedal.If you look,there is a 5/16-24 threaded shaft,with 2 nuts.These need to be adjusted so the regular clutch linkage[goes to pedal]works in conjunction with it.When they are not adjusted as a pair,one holds up the other from functioning correct.You can find this info in the drivemaster/supermatic section of the shop manual[has pictures]Pictures always help-Hudson engineers knew this,and I'm sure it is why they printed so many!!!
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