Hydramatic vs. standard shift Crankshafts
I understand there is a difference between rear crank flanges for the hydramatic transmission and the 3 speed transmissions for stepdown engines. But, I do not know exactly what those differences are and how they effect a transmission swap between the two.
Any information, or pictures, would be appreciated.
Mark
Any information, or pictures, would be appreciated.
Mark
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Comments
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The hydro has a bushing in the crank flange for centering.0
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OH NO! Please don't tell me that my Hydro won't bolt up to my 49 254 without a crankshaft mod. If I have to pull the crank my plan to get Fat Albert on the road this summer will have to be changed drastically.0
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Flange is the same--if going from hydro to stick you can leave the bushing in. If going from stick to hydro make sure bushing is in crank.
Randy0 -
51c8joe,this is correct.I believe if you have the 49 crank it will not have the necessary machining done to accept the bushing,as Randy pointed out-It Must Have the bushing for proper centering!! All 308 cranks have the place for the bushing regardless of stick or hydro,and 8 cylinders started sometime in late 1950.Are you sure you aren't going to be making it a stick?.Do you have any pictures of the flange?0
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I'll check the flange Saturday (too cold today at 19 degrees). Thanks for the reply.
Joe0 -
Whew!
I was kinda worried, I had the hydro crank stroked and was concerned it may not work with a standard flywheel.
So, I gather that any engine, or crank, prior to '50 is lacking the machining for the hydro bushing?
I wonder why Wilcap asks you to specify whether your crank was a hyrdo or standard shift before making an adapter for you?
Mark0 -
Yes,if you were to take a crankshaft from a Big 6 narrow block[48-50] or eight[50-older]it probably will not be useable for a hydro unless you drill it.I am trying to think about a story about this??/
I think it was a story from Gus Souza about Berney Seigfried,and he had this situation of needing to drill the crankshaft for this bushing and doing so on the car and things went bad and it broke his arm??.Anyone else know of this story,help me out??:eek:
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OK, my flange is not relieved for a bushing. So, it evidently can be drilled to accommodate a Hydro. Anbody have advice on how? Important stuff like what size drill bit, how deep, how to keep it centered, etc. This is really disheartening. I thought I had everything just about ready and a major obstacle pops up. I love my 8, and my Hydro, anything else wouldn't do. Anyway, thanks for all of your help,
Joe0 -
Head For The Nearest Machine Shop---precission Job0
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What 37 Terraplane#2 said, definitely not a home job. A crankshaft specialist would would be your best bet.0
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Clutch guy wrote:Yes,if you were to take a crankshaft from a Big 6 narrow block[48-50] or eight[50-older]it probably will not be useable for a hydro unless you drill it.I am trying to think about a story about this??/
I think it was a story from Gus Souza about Berney Seigfried,and he had this situation of needing to drill the crankshaft for this bushing and doing so on the car and things went bad and it broke his arm??.Anyone else know of this story,help me out??:eek:
I got THIS story many years ago from Dave Nelson, Formerly from NY State, now a member of the Orange Blossom Chapter. I know I have forgotten several details, but...This is what I remember.
When he returned from the military in the fifties (Korea?), his mother had a 50 stick shift. He decided to update for her it to a Hydro. Working in the car under the dashboard with the floor pan out. After passing the point of no return (Cutting the crossmember out) he discovered the crank difference. Working in the car, he tried to use a 3/4" drill to do the job. Then got a bright idea.. Why not just start the engine and let it do the work..just hold the drill stationary. All went well until the drill jambed and the next thing he knew. he was outside the car badly bruised , perhaps worse..Somehow he did mange to get the job done, but with a time out to heal.
I recall laughing until I had tears running down my face when he told the story. That story may have appeared later in an old issue of the WTN. Another one of those "Garage Tips"..Not to do..:eek:0 -
Might have worked if he had used a cutter from a lathe and made a jig to hold it.
Bob0 -
As I feared, there is no cheap, easy, quick fix (is there ever?). It is probably more cost effective to find a running 8 with Hydro and sell my two unused engines and dual range. At the very least I'll have a couple of cool old engines in my shed. I'll start looking in the WTN. I'm sure that a rebuilt engine is going to be out of my wife's price range.
Jope0 -
I've been looking at this post from my own point of view, and it kinda seems like I highjacked this one from Hudsonator. I apologize, and will try to be more aware in the future. What is the etiquette when someones post applies to ones own problem? Should I start a new thread, jump in with my own question, wait until the original poster has acknowledged a response, what? The info I get from this forum is too valuable to me to lose because I have alienated the pros who have the answers to my questions. I'm sorry, again, if I stepped on anybody.
Joe0 -
Assuming that the dia of the hole is big enuff and the bushing is beefy enuff, you should be able to have the O.D. of the bushing turned down to the hole diameter and use it. D did the same thing years ago on a B uick Dynaflow engine and several Chevy Powerglide engines with no problems.0
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No apologies necessary.
I don't consider this thread hijacked at all. Its all good information (good stories too).
Mark0 -
I think most of us consider a thread "hijacked" if it either turns into a rant with personal insults (and I've taken the pledge on this, and you won't see it coming from me in the future), or if someone just changes the subject completely. I, for one, am not offended if someone chimes in with his own version of the same problem- it simply gives wider perspective and more approaches to the situation. With the "quote" feature, its easy to direct an answer to either of the versions without creating confusion.0
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51c8Joe wrote:As I feared, there is no cheap, easy, quick fix (is there ever?). It is probably more cost effective to find a running 8 with Hydro and sell my two unused engines and dual range. At the very least I'll have a couple of cool old engines in my shed. I'll start looking in the WTN. I'm sure that a rebuilt engine is going to be out of my wife's price range.
Jope
This is a time consuming job,but don't get discouraged.I don't know what the status of your engine is,is it rebuilt already?.Is this engine in the car or out on the floor?.Taking the crankshaft out is not that difficult,but you must be familiar with these engines.0 -
Hi All,
Will a 56 Hornet Hydromatic 308 work for a 55 Stick Shift?0 -
Your crank will interchange with no trouble.Stick and hydro cranks have the necessary machining already done for your year. In fact anything produced after 1953 had the necessary machining already done on the cranks for interchange sake. The Hudson factory realized in 1951 that they had a problem with replacement cranks so they used hydro cranks as replacement cranks for all jobs,stick or hydro. In 53 they appeared on all production stepdowns needed or not. Its the 48-52 origional engine stick jobs that have to have the machining done on the crank in order to accomodate a hydro tranny.0
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Thanks hudzilla, i learn something everyday0
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My pleasure Steve. Happy to share what I know.0
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