Window felt strips on stepdowns

Pat,which felt piece are you talking about,the one's on the window frame that is on the inside or the piece on the outside of the glass?.The piece on the outside is real hard to replace,using the staple method.On the outside,I use 1/8 windsheild molding stainless small headed rivets.When these are done correctly,you cannot see the head of the rivet and it is held on perfectly.Also make sure to take your time drilling the holes,making sure you do not push on the drill to hard when you are getting ready to cut thru the door edge,because it will go thru and ding the outside stainless window surround.Make sure that you save the old pieces and make your patterns from them.also on the door,file or carefully grind the old staple off the door edge.If you don't,it will cause interference for your new piece and may make it not seat against the outside stainless molding,causing a gap that you will probably see.If you look real close you can see that the horizontal outside"Catwhisker"is slightly bent up,curved up so to speak,on both ends and is also flattened on the very ends and tucked in behind the window weatherstrip-this goes for the inside piece as well,but does not tuck behind the weatherstip.The inside window catwhisker is real easy,you can use many things to make the staples,I personally use stainless steel welding wire and hold the catwhisker on securely onto the window inside frame[best to be done with plenty of light on the workbench] and drill thru the new piece and still try to hit the existing holes made by the original staple[you may also want to remove all the old pieces of rusty staples in the frames].If you spend the time,you can usually make all the existing holes line up perfectly.Make sure that you line the stainless bead on the edge of the door or window frame properly before you start drilling.Hope this helps

Pat,yes the outside and the inside window trim both have staples.I am talking using whats left of the outside catwhisker for your pattern,and the inside piece for your pattern inside.Usually the only thing left is the metal back and the stainless bead-no whisker-.If you look closely you will see where the staples on the outside were stamped thru the stainless and the edge of the door.I don't know what kind of stapler it was,but I would say it was wicked!! The edge of the door is folded/welded together all the way around and then the stainless is pushed in place over it.I believe it was originally stapled thru both pieces[sheet metal door edge and the stainless molding].When you use the windsheild rivets-this job takes 2 people-hold your new piece in place on the door edge,making sure it is aligned properly,then drill one hole at a time,install the pop rivet,but before you start to pull the handle down,push it into the felt until it mostly seats.This makes the rivet disappear,then pull the handle down on the gun.My rivet gun is an old Marson and it has a very narrow,almost pointy tip for the 1/8th rivet.Use this method every 6-7 inches or however far you want to space it apart.Make sure to determine your spacing before going to the 2nd.rivet.This will make it uniform looking and when completed properly,the rivets are not visible-just has a small void where the rivet is.If you look at a car that still has its original whisker in place,they also have a void where the staple is.When doing the inside window frame,I again use stainless steel welding wire.This makes a great staple because it is very stiff,and easy to form a new staple.I use a pair of pliers the width of the staple,fold both sides down,making one side longer than the other so it allows you to start one hole and then the other.Again,before drilling into the new whisker,insure it is located correctly on the window frame,drill the holes,then install the staple,use a duck bill needle nose plier or comparable tool,hold the staple in place firmly against the frame and fold the staple over.When you are done,these staples look exactly like the factory,are almost invisible and will never rust like the originals.