Tie rods ends

[Deleted User]
[Deleted User]
edited November -1 in HUDSON
Which end is which?



I recently removed the tie rod from my '39 112 to replace the ends and to clean and paint it. However, due to a brain-lock, I neglected to notice which end of the tie rod went where.



There is a right hand thread tie rod end and a left hand thread tie rod end. The manual states that each tie rod end has a different part number but does not state whether the LH thread goes on the driver or passenger side (and vice versa). Which end is which?



Before removing the old tie rod ends, I put tape on the exposed threads of each TR end and then duplicated the width of tape on the threads of the new TR ends. Since the new TR ends are SUPPOSED to be replacements, this will get me in the ball park.



Since screwing up once wasn't enough, I decided to install the tie rod without looking carefully at the taper on the new TR ends. When I realized that the ends were not sliding into the the steering arms as they should, I tried to remove them. One side popped right off but the other was stuck. Nothing I tried to pop it loose would work. So I got out the "pickle fork"and proceded to fork the new TR end up! (Dave K. warned me to be careful)



So now the left hand thread TR end is toast and I have to order a new one. Since it is a special order part, I want to make sure that I order the correct one. Which end is which?



Thanks



Kevin



PS The file will fix the taper problem

Comments

  • Park_W
    Park_W Senior Contributor
    Kevin, look at which direction the manual says to rotate the tie rod to increase the toe-in. Then put the rod in front of you in one of the two possible positions. Now see, based on the thread direction, whether rotating the rod in the direction specified would lengthen it. If so, that would be the correct orientation. If not, swap the rod around and study it again, and that should work out correctly. (Sorry I can't be more specific, but I don't have a "solid axle" car manual here).
  • Ol racer
    Ol racer Senior Contributor
    FYI



    The RH tie rod will only screw into the cross tubing on the correct end..

    The only reason one tie rod is LH thread & the other RH thread is so the cross Tube will turn the front wheels in or out, so it shouldnt matter which way you install the complete tie rod Tube assembly...



    I never checked but Hudson being #1 in engineering probably had the LH tie rod on the Left side for simplicity...



    I have reused Tie rods after removal using a Fork after inspecting and sometimes replacing the boot.
  • Uncle Josh
    Uncle Josh Senior Contributor
    Tie Rod End R outer,(plus L inner on centerpoint) 36 Thru Stepdown Auto Star ASES140R, Moog,Mq ES140R, SPI 401-1005, Auto Zone 26385

    Tie Rod End L outer,(plus R inner on centerpoint) 36 Thru Stepdown Auto Star ASES62L, Moog,Mq ES62L, TRW ES324R, Auto Zone 26386



    According to the old Motors Manual I have, rotating the tie-rod in the direction of forward wheel rotation increases toe-in and vice versa.



    Therefore on single tie-rod unit, the Left end is left-hand threaded and the Right end is right-hand threaded, so when you loosen both end clamps and rotate the tie rod forward, it unscrews from both ends, shoving the back of the wheels apart and the front of the wheels closer together, thus increasing the toe-in.



    Both my 36 and 39 are under 3 1/2 feet of snow and I'm not going out there tonite to check them, although I have a good cross sectional picture of the left tie-rod end of the 36 which clearly shows a left-hand thread.



    On the center-point units (40 and later) the same thing holds true except that you have to do both tie rods the same amount. ie

    the left end of both rods is left-threaded, and the right end of both rods is right-threaded.



    I just checked this out on the 40 which is in the garage.
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    A tip on removing tie-rod ends, - don't hammer on the threaded end trying to drive it downwardes, you will only stuff up the threads, and probably won't budge the end from the arm. Instead get two hammers, hold one up against one side of the arm as a shock sink (at right angles to the tie rod end) , and belt the opposite outer edge of the arm, and it will jar loose and pop right out, without you even hitting the tie-rod end itself.

    Geoff.
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