Pertronix

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  • rambos_ride
    rambos_ride Senior Contributor
    51hornetA wrote:
    I have the 6V in my 51 Hornet part number 1362P6 I also have there coil and plug wires all works beautifully.



    1362P6 IGNITOR CHRYSLER 6 CYL 6V POS GND $146.08

    This is the description and price on the Pertronix website, Just thought I'd double check against your install.

    150.00'ish seems a bit pricey ~ does someone know of a less expensive source?
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Dan, that sounds about right for what I spent on my Hash ignition, I also bought the coil. Now I'm wondering if I want to go over to 12 volt do I have to buy a whole new set up or can I run a voltage drop to the coil and distributer? Actually the 6 volts seems okay except on cold mornings or when the car is hot, then I don't think I have enough power. I think my anti percolator valves aren't set right as the car doesn't like to start after it's warm. I need more amp hours in case I have to crank it over more than I think. I always feel like I'm running out of battery.



    Harry
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Yup thats the right part #
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Harry Hill wrote:
    Dan, that sounds about right for what I spent on my Hash ignition, I also bought the coil. Now I'm wondering if I want to go over to 12 volt do I have to buy a whole new set up or can I run a voltage drop to the coil and distributer? Actually the 6 volts seems okay except on cold mornings or when the car is hot, then I don't think I have enough power. I think my anti percolator valves aren't set right as the car doesn't like to start after it's warm. I need more amp hours in case I have to crank it over more than I think. I always feel like I'm running out of battery.



    Harry
    BESIDES THE ANTI- PERCULATOR VALVE BEING SET CORRECTLY THERE IS ANOTHER THING I DO TO CARTER CARBS TO HELP HOT STARTS. ASK IVAN ZAREMBA, I DO ALL HIS CARBS. Another thing is the intake manifold, it has to be cleaned out in the heat chamber for if it's packed solid it boils the gas and that is bad. You will get lots of answers but do it my way and enjoy the ride. Walt.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Walt, I cleaned the heat chamber when I had the manifolds apart, what is your way?



    Harry
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Harry Hill wrote:
    Walt, I cleaned the heat chamber when I had the manifolds apart, what is your way?



    Harry
    After you knock the plugs out, be careful not to break that inner lip take a metal coat hanger, cut it to have a straight wire and start poking through every hole. Do this outside for when you start using air you will be in a dark cloud. Take your time and go into every hole at all angles and keep blowing air. When you think you have all you can out, set it into a tub, holes up and fill it with kerosene or diedel fluid as they are both the same. That is why when road trucks cross state lines the inspectors insert a stick into their tanks and if it comes out the wrong color that means they put kerosene in their tank and did not pay the big diesel tax. Let it set for 2 days and then poke it again with the coat hanger and use plenty of air pressure. Then flush it with a high pressure nozzle and you will have a new manifold. In summer time tie your heat riser open. I take all heat risers out of the exhaust manifold for cars that are in warm climate.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Wallt, are you referring to the freeze plugs on the intake manifold?



    Harry
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Harry Hill wrote:
    Wallt, are you referring to the freeze plugs on the intake manifold?



    Harry
    That is correct. Be careful knocking them out. Walt.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Walt, when I had the manifolds off I scoped the inside and found no carbon build up anywhere in my manifolds, if I remember correctly I could see the back side of the freeze plugs and everything was clean as a whistle.



    Harry
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