Brake parts from Kanter - Problems ? ?

[Deleted User] · June 2008

I ordered and received a brake overhaul kit from Kanter for my 54 Hornet.

First off, the springs that hold the shoe to the adjuster was a 1/4 inch in diameter larger than the stock. Secondly, once the new shoes were mounted I had to wrestle the brake drum on to the axel. Once on I could not rotate the drum at all. I have checked and rechecked my installation and the adjuster is all the way in. It appears that the lining is simply too thick.

Has anyone else had problems with Kanter supplied brake parts? Is there a specification as to how thick the lining is supposed to be? The thickness on these Kanter linings is just a hair under 1/4 of an inch for the front brakes.

Thanks,

Doug

Unknown · June 2008

Doug

I have no experience with the Kanter brakes. Brake shoe to drum clearance is determined by the anchor pin and the metal backing for the shoes. Were the shoes the same as those that came off? The shape of the anchor pin clearance must be the same for the shoes to work. The springs and other mechanical mounting devices should be the same as those you removed. Were the removed springs and mountng hardware unusable? If they are not broken or very rusty I would try to reuse those items after a clean up. Hope this information helps.

Ol racer · June 2008

I have read the Tips in this Forum and in the HET Tech pgs regarding replacement Brake shoes from Suppliers being close but not the same circumfrence as original giving the problems you describe.. Try reviewing the HET Links for assistance. I think it was in Dave Solon's Site or from Walt (Mordenti) and believe you can adjust the anchor pin slightly..

Consider having your Hudson Shoes relined then go to NAPA for a brake 'Kit'. They have an Illustrated catalog to match Brake hardware.

Do not return your 'original' Shoes. Dave Kostansek 440 293 4079 will reline them or buy outright....

[Deleted User] · June 2008

Thanks for your response. The replacement shoes match up perfectly with the old shoes. I think it is a matter of too much lining on the replacements. I don't know how you would adjust the anchor pin. Where the metal part of the shoe seats against the pin, the pin would have to be smaller. ? ? I am going to call Kanter on Monday. This really ticks me off. I wasted a whole day on this project.

Ol racer · June 2008

There is help available....

The Persons below have suggested to always reline original Hudson Shoes ....Replacement shoe/lining on the Market now may look the same but isnt.

Replacements usually need to be 'arched' by a Brake Shop to match your drum circumfrence. I read an article in the White Triangle News recently on re-adjusting the Anchor by Walt Mordenti, but cant locate tonight..

I also re-read the Brake Caution advice in the HET Tech Site under Ken Cates Stepdown Page before printing this response.

I suggest emailing either Walt Mordenti (mmordenti@aol.com) or Ken Cates (kensanjuana@aol.com) for further advice.

Unknown · June 2008

Most of the shoes from parts stores have lineing 1/4 thick. The Hudson lineing kits (back in the day) were 3/16 thick. Most you get today are the incorrect shoes with the notch that fits the anchor pin just a fraction lower than the Hudson shoe. The anchor pin will move up and down when the 15/16 nut is loosened. With the wrong shoes you will have to remove the pin from backing plate and grind the hole for pin lower to center the shoes in the drum. May have to have the shoes ground also if the drums are not worn enough for the thicker lineings. It is hard to just look at the shoes and see the difference in the anchor notch. Hope this helps. I have had to do a few.

Jon B · June 2008

Are you having trouble fitting the shoes at all four wheels, Dougc? If just the front ones, then it sounds like you have been given the Ford ones which are identical to the Hudson ones except for the placement of the notch at the top, for the anchor pins. The problem seems to crop up with the front shoes, not the rear ones.

You say that the new shoes are identical to the Hudson ones but have you carefully checked the location of the notches?

Having the old Hudson ones re-lined may be the answer, but read this thread from a short time ago, with interesting comments by Mr. Mordenti:

http://www.classiccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14154&highlight=brake+shoes

[Deleted User] · June 2008

I haven't gotten to the rear brakes yet. I have sent Walt Mordenti an email but no response as yet. It seems to me that the solution, aside from having them ground down, is to file down the area on the metal part of the shoe where it rests against the anchor pin. A little on each brake shoe would probably solve the problem.

Thanks to all for your helpful responses,

Doug

[Deleted User] · June 2008

Doug - Do not try to modify the shoe. Remove the anchor bolt and modify the hole in the backing plate or get the right shoes. Norm

HUDSONBROTHER1 · June 2008

I'm Running Ford Shoes On My 53 Hornett. I Loosened The Big Nut On The Ancor Pin And Pulled It Out,then Lenthened The Slot/hole

Down . The Pin Sits Closer To The Wheel Cyl. This Allowed Me To Center The Shoes. Use The Small Square Hole In The Front Of The Drum To Ckeck The Clearance All Around.do'nt Use To Hard Of A Lining. Hope This Helps. Dave

mars55 · June 2008

Jon B wrote: »

Are you having trouble fitting the shoes at all four wheels, Dougc? If just the front ones, then it sounds like you have been given the Ford ones which are identical to the Hudson ones except for the placement of the notch at the top, for the anchor pins. The problem seems to crop up with the front shoes, not the rear ones.

You say that the new shoes are identical to the Hudson ones but have you carefully checked the location of the notches?

These are drawings of of the two kinds of brake shoes from Walt Mordenti's article in the WTN on this subject.

hudson1948 · June 2008

I have run accross this problem. The shoes I got had 1/4" inch lining on them. Original lining is 3/16. I checked the anchor and it was correct. Had the shoes arched to the drums and the problem went away , without touching the anchor bolt. Had a nice pedal .

Unknown · June 2008

Hudson1948...

Your answer mirrors what my local brake and clutch relining company told me. In the past when I was driving Hudsons or other classic "old cars" and needed brakes I always took the shoes that were on my car to the reline shop to have new linings bonded or riveted to that shoe set. The linings were then arched based on my drums. My experience was the same as yours... good pedal everytime. Got a spare set of shoes on the shelf right now to assure I can replace the brakes with Hudson installed brake shoes.

Richard E. · June 2008

I put Kantor brake parts on my '50C sedan when I first got it in 1996 and I have put 25,000 trouble free miles on them, including a coast to coast trip. However, you can get replacements from Napa and the part #'s are available here. I just restored a '36T sedan and I used Napa brake parts and they seem to be just fine also.

[Deleted User] · June 2008

I bought a set of shoes for my 36 Terraplane from Kanter and they were new Ford shoes. I had to send them back because the holes for the spring retainers that located the shoes to the back plate were off and held the shoes in the wrong place.

bent metal · June 2008

As Hudson 1948 said, the re-arching is real important so you get good contact area. I have to wonder if Kanter has recently been getting their stuff from China? That would explain that Richard E.'s brake stuff was good (from ten years ago) and the stuff people are getting today seem to be not so good? Maybe?

Brake parts from Kanter - Problems ? ?

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