trunk locked
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The trunklid is locked on my '54 convertible, and no keys to be found anywhere. I see by looking in the trunk of my '53 convertible that there is a metal panel between the trunk and the back seat, so I guess there's no getting in that way.
I thought I'd be really clever and take the glove box latch to a locksmith, get a key made for it, and then use that to open the trunk, but no luck -- either somebody changed that lock way back when, or the trunk lock, because the new key didn't work.
So what now? Cough up 85 bucks or so to have a locksmith come to the house and "pick" it, or get out the drill and destroy the tumbler.
Anybody got a better idea?
I thought I'd be really clever and take the glove box latch to a locksmith, get a key made for it, and then use that to open the trunk, but no luck -- either somebody changed that lock way back when, or the trunk lock, because the new key didn't work.
So what now? Cough up 85 bucks or so to have a locksmith come to the house and "pick" it, or get out the drill and destroy the tumbler.
Anybody got a better idea?
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Comments
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Pick it yourself. It's not that difficult, with the disc tumblers that they used on those cheap locks plus the wear on the lock. (I used to do this for entertainment in high school). Caveat: this doesn't work on modern auto locks or household (pin tumbler) locks.
Straighten out a medium metal paper clip. Get a small screwdriver. Make a slight straight bend (30 deg) in the last 1/8 inch of the clip.
Try to determine which way the lock moves, and use the edge of screwdriver to put pressure on the tumbler in that direction, pushing on the edge of the key slot. Take the paper clip and insert it in the lock, then firmly press against the disc tumblers (you can feel them - be sure to start with the rearmost one). Stroke the clip from the innermost to the front of the tumbler. If you keep pressure on the tumbler with the screwdriver, you should be able to feel the discs hang up on the edge of the lock housing. It might take several strokes but be patient- sometimes the discs hang one at a time, and sometimes they release. You might have to play with it a bit - if necessary, release pressure and start over with a different disc (2nd or 3rd from the inside). Depends on how they are worn. You also might want to try different thickness paper clips - some locks need a thicker wire.
In 3-5 minutes you should have your lock open.0 -
If you have another Hudson key it may work if you 'jiggle' it a bit. I think there is an opening space behind the back seat with a cardboard type cover. (In cpe's anyway) . I remember pop riveting a pc of aluminum for a 'firewall' in my racer. If you could drive the car to a locksmith the cost may be far less than a Service Call.0
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I'm not acquainted with "modern" Hudsons, but it might be that the stamped metal brace between the cabin and trunk, has a lot of openings in it through which a long rod might be inserted from the inside of the cabin (after removing the rear seat). This rod might be used to activate the latch from the inside, working from the back seat.0
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Hi Silverone On our 54 Hornet hollywood when you take out the back seat rest their is cardboard similar to the door panels attached behind the
backseat painted that looks like metal. If that is what you have crawl in
with a light and 3/8 or 7/16 wrench and remove trunk latch.
or take hudson trunklid lift handle off and then stick right size screwdriver in and turn trunk latch. duncan0 -
duncan wrote:Hi Silverone On our 54 Hornet hollywood when you take out the back seat rest their is cardboard similar to the door panels attached behind the
backseat painted that looks like metal. If that is what you have crawl in
with a light and 3/8 or 7/16 wrench and remove trunk latch.
or take hudson trunklid lift handle off and then stick right size screwdriver in and turn trunk latch. duncan
Duncan, on the '54, there is a vinyl panel of some kind right behind the seat, seperating the trunk from the passenger compartment. The screws look rather rusted so I haven't tried to disturb them yet, but I did look in the trunk of my '53 convert, and there is a solid metal barrier right across from side to side, that there's no way to get through.
The trunk lid hinges are mounted to this panel as well, and maybe with no roof to support the sides on a convertible, this panel is a necessity for strength ?? Anyway, tried picking the lock with no luck yet.
I wonder if these tumbler mechanisms are obsolete now, or can a Guy just pick up a new one at a good locksmith. ( I'm thinking --- just jam a screwdriver in the slot and turn it, breaking the tumblers of course), but maybe that's cheaper than getting a service call -- ( the car's not driveable yet).
Anyway, I'll break in only as a last resort. Hudson stuff is too precious to me to get careless with it.
Incidently, I asked a locksmith if he could make me a master key for this lock, but he said "nope" ! He called the glove box mechanism I gave him a "Briggs and Stratton standard stuff", but I've no dea what he meant by that - unless he meant there's a zillion of them out there, --- which might be a good thing !!0 -
Jon B wrote:I'm not acquainted with "modern" Hudsons, but it might be that the stamped metal brace between the cabin and trunk, has a lot of openings in it through which a long rod might be inserted from the inside of the cabin (after removing the rear seat). This rod might be used to activate the latch from the inside, working from the back seat.
This might work Jon, if I can get a long enough square ended rod through a hole and stick it in the square hole at the back side of the lock. I have another '54 sedan, that has the tumbler mechanism missing on the trunk latch, and I stick a screwdriver in the hole and pry gently upward to release the lock on this car. Once up, I can see this square hole on the inside of the mechanism, ( about 1/4 inch square) but I'd need a scope or something to see that far to get it in the right place.
I'll treat it as a challenge or a puzzle ! The hornet emblem is missing from the lid, and I can shine a flaslight in one hole and stick an eyeball to the other !! Trouble is, these holes are only a foot or so away from the latch mechanism, but they're beside it, not across from it, so trying to fish through there isn't going to work I suspect, but there's a bunch of stuff in there and I just gotta find out what it is !!0 -
I don't know if this applies to Hudson's too but if you can pick the lock without destroying it and then take the whole mechanism off the trunk lid then on the tumbler there may be a serial number... take that number to a good lock smith shop and they should be able to cut you a new key for it. This is the case on old post war Chevies anyways.... Also the glovebox lock as you found out is not the same as the door and trunk lock.0
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Silverone,
I had the locks for my trunk and glovebox rekeyed about 6 months ago. They were standard stuff. I had both the trunk and glovebox done to match my ignition key. They charged me about $35.00 for both locks. They had the discs there at the shop.
Rich0 -
Where was that Rich, I tried to get a key for my trunk and all they did was broke the tumblers and made it so any key will open it. The ignition key isn't stock but I would like to have the ignition, doors and trunk all alike, as it is now I can't lock the doors because I can't unlock them.
Harry0 -
Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.
54 Hornet trunk lock. I went to get a key for my trunk lid, $25.00. Wasted.
On the end of the tumbler is a little tit. Yes. When you put the key in
the tumblers let the key enter the lock. Now the key is all the way in. When you turn the key the little tit engages the square receptacle that is inside the trunk, and trips the latch on the trunk lid to disengage from the catch that is at the bottom of the trunk. When I got my new key home, and put it in the lock the whole lock mechanism came out, and I saw that the little tit/nipple was broken. No amount of epoxy or JB weld would have enough strength to hold that little nipple on the end of the lock, trying to turn that latch.
sooooo. To heck with it. Where am I going to find another lock. Maybe Bill A, or Jim Quinn might salvage one. I just use a small flat bladed screwdiver, stick it in the hole, turn right and it trips the latch. Sorry about that Purists.. Yes I got a hole where the keys used to be, but at least I can still open and lock the trunk. If somones got a new tumbler
please let me know.....0 -
FYI
The tumbler itself is made of pot metal, thus the broken nipple. Aren't you glad I cleaned it up!!0 -
Harry,
It was J & J Locksmith in Kalamazoo, MI. It took about a week to get it back, because they had to soak the trunk lock in penatrating oil to get the tumblers to free up.
J& J Locksmith
1015 East Cork Street
Kalamazoo, MI. 49001
(269) 342-98080 -
Convertibles,unlike the other models,have a solid metal welded liner,and will not let allow access from the interior. Using some of the "picking methods"described here will probably work.0
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I saved a lot of spare Hudson keys over the years. Have been able to open Hudson locks with keys from other Hudsons or any car that uses Briggs & Stratton keys. Just had to be patient and wiggle the key.0
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For those of us who occassionally lock our keys inside while the engine is running... not once , but twice last year... and the spare key was where... with my best friend and she was out of town both times. The option I chose was keep the glass intact and call Pop-a-Lock. Thier very knowledgeable tech came to the house within 20 minutes and opened the door to my vehicle. Before five minutes had passed he had presented a bill for $50 + evening premium of $15 so as I passed the tech $65 dollars he asked... where is that spare key? Point... these folks have all the lock picking and poking stuff in the world... fella told me he had even opened safes for businesses. Give it a try...might be cheaper than breakin in.0
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