52 Hornet Coupe
I asked following question months ago and did receive supplier's link but misplaced link: Appreciate it/link being resent for approximately 16 feet stainless trim that I want to use between quarter panel and body?
Also need center balance piece located under front bumper, if anyone has and wants to sell please email me...Restoration is progressing and will post some pictures next week...
Thanks,
Ray
Also need center balance piece located under front bumper, if anyone has and wants to sell please email me...Restoration is progressing and will post some pictures next week...
Thanks,
Ray
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Comments
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Ray Unless You Are Building A Street Rod, Leave The Stainless Off Between Rear Qtr And Body. A Soft Body Putty Sealer Was Used. Be More Specific About Center Piece Are You Talking About The Pan That Goes Under Radiator Or What?? Bill Albright0
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bill a wrote:Ray Unless You Are Building A Street Rod, Leave The Stainless Off Between Rear Qtr And Body. A Soft Body Putty Sealer Was Used. Be More Specific About Center Piece Are You Talking About The Pan That Goes Under Radiator Or What?? Bill Albright
Bill, it's the narrow piece that connects in center with long left/right piece's under the front bumper or directly under front license plate, if old memory serves me correctly I believe it's about two inches wide and four inches long?
I'll be returning to car next Tuesday or Wednesday and can take a picture to send. Don't know if I acknowledged receipt of speedometer cable, well I did and understand I have to trim to fit properly.
Thanks,
Ray0 -
See pictures of part I would like to purchase from other member.
Ray0 -
Ray,
Just in case you do want Stainless fender Welting, either Dennis Carpenter (www.dennis carpenter.com) or Bob Drake (www.bobdrake.com) has it in UPS shippable lengths. It duplicates the Welting on the '47 Commodore.0 -
Thanks again for link...Does anyone some pictures of cars that used chrome welting on quarter panels?0
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One doesn't normally see the stainless fender welting on the stepdowns . . . they are somewhat prevalent on the pre and postwar Hudsons, particularly the 46 and 47's.0
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Thanks Russell,
While I have quarter panels, in fact all exterior sheet metal removed I was toying with idea of installing on my '52 Horent coupe? I've never seen on or had chrome welting on my previous owned '52-53 or 54 Hornets and probably will not go forward and install on my car...Still interested to learn if anybody has part I attached pictures, if so, I'd be happy to purchase...Going to bring inner wheel wells and other parts to powder coating shop tomorrow.
Thanks again,
Ray0 -
Ray,
I sent the S/S Welting Links not realizing you are restoring a Stepdown. I never seen anything except body caulk and/or sealer used on Stepdowns as the other Members have recommended.
I think ceasing use of welting was because panels began intregating with the newer body .. It might look okay though....0 -
Ray,
Did anyone get back to you on that part?
Hows the coupe coming along? I'm curious to know how close I was on the rough time-to-finish estimate I had before?
And - do you have any updated pics to share? I need some motivation!
Dan0 -
Hi Dan,
Reference part under center of bumper I haven't heard from any member...If I don't, we'll just have to make piece...
I just returned from Henderson Classic Car Show and saw a very nice '49 Commodore convertible 262 with Drive Master owned by a gentleman who lives in Alaska, his very thoughtful son Robert Hudson gave this car to his father as a present; nice son also was driving a '47 Super Six sedan which also was a fine car... Only one other very clean good condition Hudson/Nash Hornet was at show owned by a Mr. Brown.
This show is getting bigger and better every year, it would take hours to cover and enjoy the creative, fabrication and restoration of early originals and or hot rods; quality of workmanship was excellent, what a pity all this fine style sheet metal of American history is no longer available in car industry. On the way to car show, I dropped off parts at Americanpolishplating.com chrome shop in Henderson, see a couple of before pictures I am posting and will post after pictures at a later date.
Reference my car progress, when I drove about miles north of Vegas to see two days ago, I guessimate it's 50% completed, should be ready to paint in a couple of months. As doors, fenders, quarter panels, hood and trunk have been removed twice and lined up; metal fits perfectly. As I putting wheel wells, radiator support and other parts I wanted to power coat into my SUV I fainted and didn't take any pictures and as soon as my head cleared up I foolishly drove 80 miles home; long story but I have to take all kinds of tests next week. Back to sheet metal, where bondo was applied, it was cut out replaced with good sheet metal. Shooting for additional six months to complete restoration...Anyone who had good luck with Vintage or Hot Rod air condition suppliers; I appreciate your experince's?
Note: For pick up only, for sale, one hood, trunk, complete differential, gas tank, rear glass window removed from '51-52 Hornets.
Reference encouragement: Weather wise; this is the perfect time of the year to apply all the skills, experience you have developed.
P.S. If you would like to see some pictures I took at the show today; let me know...0 -
I like to find the Underdash Unit at swap meets because they are larger Units than sold tody. Then I buy new Condenser, Compressor, Dryer and hoses. Southern Rods has A/C Kits & Parts at pretty decent prices. www.southernrods.com. There are many other A/C Suppliers available. Be sure to insulate well and install tinted Glass.
Good Luck withn your exams.0 -
Ol Racer, Thanks for A/C advise/tip ..Yes these are the kind of exams you hate to fail. Attached are just a couple of pictures I took today...0
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Couple more picures of 1949 Commodore...Not because 1937 is my birth year but this '37 Packard was fawless.
Ray0 -
Thanks, Some Great looking Cars in your Silver State.
Here is another A/C Company I have utilized. www.oldairproducts.com. Forgot to mention older 'underdash A/C Units' are great but if you find one be sure it has 3 or 4 wires leading from the motor indicating a 3 Spd control switch. If only 2 wires (+ & -) you will need to replace the Rehostate switch with a modern 3 Spd switch. It may be simpler to buy a whole A/C Kit living in a real hot climate. Here (in Pa) I rarely use A/C when cruisin. Check out the A/C Web Sites.0 -
I have used Classic Air and Hot Rod Air products. Both are in Texas. Classic Air seemed a bit "aloof" if that is the word. Just not very friendly and very slow to send a catalog.. along with a bill for it! Hot Rod air has almost exactly the same products and were very helpful in making a "kit" for me. Prices were comparable. No one could help with the fitting to the engine. That requires some cut and try on your own.0
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SuperDave wrote:I have used Classic Air and Hot Rod Air products. Both are in Texas. Classic Air seemed a bit "aloof" if that is the word. Just not very friendly and very slow to send a catalog.. along with a bill for it! Hot Rod air has almost exactly the same products and were very helpful in making a "kit" for me. Prices were comparable. No one could help with the fitting to the engine. That requires some cut and try on your own.
Good Morning Super Dave and thanks for helpful input...
Ray0 -
Ol racer wrote:Thanks, Some Great looking Cars in your Silver State.
Here is another A/C Company I have utilized. www.oldairproducts.com. Forgot to mention older 'underdash A/C Units' are great but if you find one be sure it has 3 or 4 wires leading from the motor indicating a 3 Spd control switch. If only 2 wires (+ & -) you will need to replace the Rehostate switch with a modern 3 Spd switch. It may be simpler to buy a whole A/C Kit living in a real hot climate. Here (in Pa) I rarely use A/C when cruisin. Check out the A/C Web Sites.
Good Morning Ol racer and as always thanks for helpful input...
Ray0
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