Cooling modifications woes-help....

jjbubaboy
jjbubaboy Senior Contributor
edited November -1 in HUDSON
OK, so I got this great idea since my 36T was running so hot. I got a bypass T-stat housing and a bypass water pump and a bypass t-stat. The housing is # 155210 and the water pump is # 150218. When I put the housing on and then the pump--oops they dont line up!

I guess I have the wrong pump?? This is a NOS pump so if that is the issue, does someone want to swap me for a new/rebult correct one?

Thanks again,

T Jeff

Comments

  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    On my 1937, the correct bypass type pump is 150217 and the mating outlet is 150391. This probably doesn't help, because undoubtedly the parts numbers changed as the years passed, and slight modifications were made to both the pump and outlets. (Newer pumps and outlets would have fit the older block / head, but obviously there are some combinations that didn't work together.)



    Your #155210 outlet is listed in the 1940 parts book as fitting models 43 & 47;

    Your #150215 pump is listed in the 1940 parts book as fitting models 40, 41,44, 45 and 48.



    So for some reason these two items were not used on the same models of Hudson in 1940, possibly meaning they are incompatible!
  • Uncle Josh
    Uncle Josh Senior Contributor
    Looks like you need one of them offset hoses.



    I was under the impression that the purpose of the bypass, was to circulate water thru the block and head for quicker warm-up until it got hot enough to send it thru the radiator, at which time the bypass was cut off.



    I think it's Walt Mordenti that advocates blocking off the bypass if you have one, which I do and did on my Straight Eight Hornadore but that has a better radiator to begin with..



    Overheating is a problem on my 36 as well, and I have to address it. It doesn't help that the beast didn't have a heat gage to begin with. I installed a mechanical one which just shows me what I suspected in the first place.



    Some wag told me 'if it's steamin, it's hot'.



    I do have another radiator to try, and I have to check the water jacket to make sure it isn't rusted out inside. Also have to make sure the thermostat is there and working so it doesn't send coolant thru the radiator too fast.



    Maybe we need another core or modern recore for the modern gas. Or maybe we need an electric fan in front of the radiator like the hotrodders use. Jury still out.
  • Ol racer
    Ol racer Senior Contributor
    Regarding Cooling:

    I have had a few people tell me that the '36 & '37's ran warm back when new and a primary reason they revised the grille area for '38.



    To compound the problem I installed a 308 in my '37 using a large 3 Row pressurized radiator using first one, then two electric fans in front (since no room on water pump). I also added ducting & shrouds to ensure all air flowed thru and not around the radiator, but at speed it ran 210++.



    Next, I squeezed a larger Howe Racing aluminum radiator (for a Chevy V8) more forward into the grille shell so I could mount an electric fan on the rear side but didnt gain much since still runs 200+, which isnt too bad because dont lose coolant.



    My only option remaining is a thicker radiator and mount the fan back in front but feel I will gain little because of the narrow grille opening.



    Subsequently, I put a Wasp 262 motor in my '47 Truck using the stock radiator thinking it may run warm too but only runs 170 degrees at speed on a hot day......Both vehicles have thermostats with clean cooling systems with the only difference being the size of the grille openings....



    Incidently, There is a St Rod '38 Terraplane near here that has a 392" Hemi V8 using an unbelievably small radiator with no Shrouds so maybe some merit that '38's get more air flow...
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Don't forget about using water wetter. it lubricates and reduces water temperature ten to eigtteen degrees. They also have it for use with antifreeze to. It's worth the seven or ten dollars.
  • Clutchguy
    Clutchguy Senior Contributor
    Have you checked the flow of the radiator?. Overheating is usually resolved when all components are as 'New"?.
  • jjbubaboy
    jjbubaboy Senior Contributor
    Yea Clutch, that is part of the problem. The water wont stay in the ra dideator long enough to cool down, hence my desire to add the t-stat.

    Now I just need the correct pump or combo to line it up.

    Thanks,

    Hudsonly,

    T Jeff
  • jjbubaboy
    jjbubaboy Senior Contributor
    Ok Jon,

    I guess I will try to locate those parts and see if the bypass is angled different on that pump model.

    Thanks,

    T Jeff
  • Clutchguy
    Clutchguy Senior Contributor
    It sounds like the radiator is plugged up. This will cause a restriction and overheating concern. It can appear to flow fine but capacity is what is causing it to blow out. It draws in on the suction side but can't flow thru the radiator,so it blows it out,causing the system to be low and then it cavitates. Cavitating then causes it to overheat quick. These systems were not pressurized-as you probably know-and any restriction[cores partially blocked]will cause them to overheat. You can look into the filler neck and it might appear to flow good,but that does not necessarily mean it is flowing on the outside 20/30 % of the sides. Once you raise the RPM's up,the water pump draws more than the radiator allows to flow and subsequently it overheats? I am just trying to help,but it sounds like the rad is the problem?



    [*********The water wont stay in the ra dideator long enough to cool down, hence my desire to add the t-stat.]**

    If the engine is getting hot that quick,a thermostat is not going to correct anything. It is a restriction or pressure being blown into the system= crack or gasket problem.
  • jjbubaboy
    jjbubaboy Senior Contributor
    Hey,

    Appreciate all the help! I will have the rad checked out for flow. I guess what I meant to say was that the water flowed through the rad back thru the engine so well that it couldnt get cooled down by staying in the rad long enough. Thats how it seems to me. So my plan was to slow the flow a little.

    Thanks,

    Hudsonly

    T Jeff
  • Spencer Yarrow
    Spencer Yarrow Expert Adviser
    36 T should flow 21.6 gals. through the core per min. the equipment needed to test this is :- vertical tank 1.5 ft. in dia. X 5 ft. high. capacity of tank, 66 gal. tank set so that top is 10ft. from floor. outlet size at bottom of tank,2.5 in. each inch of water is 1.1gal. each gal. is .91 inches in tank. i have this info. for most american cars 1928 to 1937. just ask if info. needed for other cars

    hudsonly spencer
  • Richard E.
    Richard E. Senior Contributor
    When I rebuilt my '36T engine, I was advised to tank the engine block to boil out all of the water passages, which I did. I had been concerned about other '36T's that I had heard overheated. I also had the radiator re-cored and I use a 6v Scott radiator cooling fan. I have not had an overheating problem at all! I do have other problems that I am trying to sort out, but it does run cool.
  • Clutchguy
    Clutchguy Senior Contributor
    As in a few other threads,I have discussed using a infered digital thermometer. This is something you can use on several things. Using this you can find where the radiator is flowing fluid and look at the temp differential from the mddle and out to both sides. You can also use it to check where the block is hot and cold. You can take the temp of the lower rad hose and the upper,and look at how much the rad is cooling it down. You can also use this tool to somewhat check cylinder balance. Put the dot on each exhaust port and compare. Tire temps are easily checked when on a trip,buy comparing,and if it veries much,it could be low or there may be some other concern. I have found this tool to have endless uses and to be priceless!!:cool:
This discussion has been closed.

Categories

In this Discussion