1947 2 tone paint

Unknown
Unknown
edited November -1 in HUDSON
This spring I want to paint my 47 Commodore 6. It has the original paint which is 2 tone. I can do bodywork and spray paint and am familiar with body shop terminlogy, but I need some help. I want to keep the 2 tone but I'm not sure how to do it so that the paint is smooth where the 2 colors meet on the cowl. Also, it looks tricky to tape off that part since it's rounded. I want to use single stage paint. Probably PPG urethane enamel or something similar. I've never done a 2 tone. It wouldn't be so hard if there were a strip of trim to cover all the places where the colors meet. After I do the paint I want to do the interior, then I'll need serious help on the woodgrain, but that's another topic. Thanks.

Comments

  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    The best way would be to use a Base/Clear system rather than single stage. The basecoat is thinner and the clear will level the two-tone meeting line with minimal color sanding of the clear. If you use a catalyzed non-metallic single stage, you can color sand the meeting area level, then polish. Can't color sand single stage metallic, though. Also, you can get 1/4"wide 3M blue plastic masking tape from you paint supplier to tape the curved lines. Guys who do flame jobs and such use this to tape out good-looking curves.
  • rambos_ride
    rambos_ride Senior Contributor
    coreywalker wrote:
    This spring I want to paint my 47 Commodore 6. It has the original paint which is 2 tone. I can do bodywork and spray paint and am familiar with body shop terminlogy, but I need some help. I want to keep the 2 tone but I'm not sure how to do it so that the paint is smooth where the 2 colors meet on the cowl. Also, it looks tricky to tape off that part since it's rounded. I want to use single stage paint. Probably PPG urethane enamel or something similar. I've never done a 2 tone. It
    wouldn't be so hard if there were a strip of trim to cover all the places where the colors meet. After I do the paint I want to do the interior, then I'll need serious help on the woodgrain, but that's another topic. Thanks.

    If you use single stage you'll have a paint edge. With the mil thickness of enamels and urethanes this edge can be fairly noticeable without a pinstripe to hide/cover the tape line - even using a fine line tape as Tom pointed out.

    If you do a base coat / clear coat - after the color coats are down - the trick is to always "double-coat" the edges when clearcoating.

    This is done by simply applying the recommended coat of clear on the stripe edge only - then allow that area to tack up, just like you did the entire car. Then you clear the entire car, wait for it to tack up and repeat,

    So for every coat of clear you where going to apply you've doubled the amount on the stripe edge - the critical point here is not to rush and to allow the propert time between coats so you don't get massive runs on the edges :eek:

    With proper wet-sanding using a block you can completely level the area out with no paint edge or rippling at all after buffing.

    This is the method I've used for cough...cough..29 years and counting...down...:p;)

    Here's a few that I've owned or done by hand over the years...

    1968 Chevelle (My first car :() 4 color acyriic lacquer with laquer clear
    68Chev3_med.jpg

    1976 CJ5 BC/CC Deltron (Acrylic Urethane Enamel)
    main_15med.jpg

    1976 Camaro BC/CC Deltron (Acrylic Urethane Enamel) (5 color w/pearl)

    Camaro_1med.jpg
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    I guess I'll go with the base coat clear coat. I've always used single stage, but I've seen the base/clear system done numerous times. I'm about to paint a 73 International 3/4 ton truck, am fixing it up for a unique work truck (I refuse to drive a new vehicle) I'll practice my base/clear on it. It may take until next spring however to fix all the dents on it, but then it may take until then to remove all the trim on the Hudson. Thanks for the tips!
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