Product Recommendation & Window Channeling

[Deleted User]
[Deleted User]
edited November -1 in HUDSON
Being a retired senior and trying to restore my 54 Hudson on a limited budget, I am always on the lookout for quality yet inexpensive products. There is a product sold here in Oregon called Zero Rust. It is a replacement for POR 15. It costs about 1/2 of what POR 15 costs, is very user friendly, and seems to do a great job. May or may not be available in your area.



Secondly, I am about to embark on installing new window channeling in the doors. Having never done this before I am looking for any advice, tricks or words of wisdom that anyone can pass on. I got the channeling from Vic Zamora. I have the glass removed from the regulator. Is an adhesive used when reinstalling the glass? Is the channeling glued in place? Gees I could ask you guys questions all day long.



Thanks, Doug

Comments

  • mars55
    mars55 Senior Contributor
    Here is the Zero Rust website.



    http://zero-rust.com/index.html
  • Hudson Grandpa
    Hudson Grandpa Expert Adviser
    My question: Where did you send the door panels?



    Yes I have recently installed the channeling from Vic in my 54 Cpe.



    The adhesive that we used is GE Window & Door Silicone 1, from Lowe's or Home Depot. Assuming that you have everything apart, meaning the whiskers on either side of the channel, the whiskers are put back with the silicone. They originally had staples to hold them in. Must be cut off, cleaned and glued back with the silicone.. They well not come apart. You only use the silicone on the top part of the door just as you are about to put the new channeling back in. (Hopefully you saved the old to make a copy for the new.) The new channel goes in at the same time you reinstall the window glass. It's a sorta do this as your doing that, because as you put the channel in with the silicone on the top part, then you roll up the window and secure the channel against the silicone glue. It took two people to do this on this end.



    Hey It's a lotta fun!!



    I have a cpe, and I am going to try to put the rest of the channeling in without taking the window out on the rear windows. Ken in Waco, says it can be done without cracking glass. WD-40 when installing the window tracks.
  • Hudson Grandpa
    Hudson Grandpa Expert Adviser
    PS. a retired senior on a limited budget.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Hudson Gandpa, am a little confused here. The channeling I got from Vic already had the "whiskers", as you call them, installed. I ordered the complete kit. Am I missing something here?



    Also, what did you mean by your question; "Where did you send the door panels".



    Doug
  • Hudson Grandpa
    Hudson Grandpa Expert Adviser
    OK: In order get to the window glass you had to take off the panels. Are you upholstering them yourself or is someone else doing the job.



    The window channeling is for the window glass. The whisker rails has the whiskers only one side. The stainless that goes around the outside of the window has a whisker stapled to the bottom of the stainless. On the inside of the car is the window rail painted to match the upholstery of the car. It has also one whisker stapled to it. When you get the old ones off, and the part that it was stapled to cleaned up, then you will use the glue aforementioned to put the new whiskers back.

    the only thing I can figure out why they are there is to take up the slack between the outside panel and inside, and to keep the window rigid while traversing during up and down cycle. I presume you got the whole kit from Vic.

    If you take the stainless off on the outside of the window you will see what I am talking about, and also the painted rail on the inside of the window. Hope this helps.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Grand Pa. To fasten the whiskers to the door and molding I use staples for a air powered staple gun. They come in many different sizes. Get as close as you can to match the holes in the molding and door piece. You may have to drill the holes a little bigger. The last few I have worked on was done with these staples and they work fine. I rebuilt my Jet Liner about 15 years ago and used the silicon all ofthe whiskers are loose and a couple have fallen down in the doors. The staples take longer to do but they do work.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Grandpa K-Gap has the window setting channell for setting the glass in the bottom channel. Just used some a couple of years ago, Works great.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Dave: The side pieces for the window garnish moldings can be fastened as Billy noted as well as with pop riviets. Use a Que Tip and black paint to hide the rivet when fastening completed. Either method works and will assure these side wiskers stay put.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Hudson Grandpa, Okay, now I am with you. Currently the interior of the car is completely gutted from the headliner to the carpeting and everything in between. There was extensive surface rust in this car on the inside. From trunk to the firewall It has been completely wire-brushed, have applied a rust converter, and is now in primer. Thank God that part is over. Hopefully a year from now I will have the car 's interior professionally done. Right now I am completely going through each door. Getting the bolts out that fasten the hinge to the door is a real chore.



    Doug
  • Hudson Grandpa
    Hudson Grandpa Expert Adviser
    Well I wished someone would have chimed in and helped him out before I tried!!!! I'm just following Vic's instructions. Working so far...
  • 464Saloon
    464Saloon Senior Contributor
    Hudson Grandpa wrote:
    Well I wished someone would have chimed in and helped him out before I tried!!!! I'm just following Vic's instructions. Working so far...

    Were any instructions written up to do this job? I will be doing mine in the next week or two. I will be doing both front and back then taking the car to Pomona Auto Upholstery to have the door panels redone. I have a feeling the rear windows are going to be a challenge since it is a Brougham, so any suggestions and ideas will be welcome.

    Thanks,
  • coverton
    coverton Expert Adviser
    I just "fixxed" the window sils on two cars today-my 51 and my "Wannabe" 49[long way to go].Started by media blasting the old rusty and chipped trim,all the crud,paint,rust etc disappears,then took off the rusty and worn out "Wiskers" with a flat blade and pr.of dikes.Covered the bare metal after a swipe with 400,then 600 grit with two part sealer,base coat and cleared the panels and it looks good for me since I did it myself. Now I think I will try the small pop rivet as I can't figure out how in the %$# to get a staple back in that space. Or will silicone glue really hold long?

    C Overton
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    464Saloon wrote:
    Were any instructions written up to do this job? I will be doing mine in the next week or two. I will be doing both front and back then taking the car to Pomona Auto Upholstery to have the door panels redone. I have a feeling the rear windows are going to be a challenge since it is a Brougham, so any suggestions and ideas will be welcome.

    Thanks,

    I have started a HOW TO DO sheet that should take anyone through the process of rechanneling thier Hudson Stepdown windows. If all goes well I will post a link here early next week.

    Cheers
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    I emailed Vic and he sent me some instructions. There is a part that puzzles me. He says "when bending tight corners, bend slowly and gently slide channel stainless and fabric away from bend to prevent kinking". I am not sure that I understand this. Anyway, if you want a copy of the instructions send me your email and I can forward them to you.



    Doug
  • 464Saloon
    464Saloon Senior Contributor
    dougc_portland wrote:
    I emailed Vic and he sent me some instructions. There is a part that puzzles me. He says "when bending tight corners, bend slowly and gently slide channel stainless and fabric away from bend to prevent kinking". I am not sure that I understand this. Anyway, if you want a copy of the instructions send me your email and I can forward them to you.

    Doug

    I thought Vic was going to e-mail them to me. If you have them that would be great. My e-mail is rmackey2@verizon.net

    Thanks
  • VicTor Z
    VicTor Z Senior Contributor
    Hello Rob, just sent copies of instructions to your email. Sent from home a scaned copy. I don't know how to post here on the forum.
  • 464Saloon
    464Saloon Senior Contributor
    VicTor Z wrote:
    Hello Rob, just sent copies of instructions to your email. Sent from home a scaned copy. I don't know how to post here on the forum.

    Yes Vic I did receive it, Thank you. It does not appear to be Hudson specific.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    I used J-B Weld , works great. 5 min.





    Jeff
  • hudsonguy
    hudsonguy Senior Contributor
    dougc_portland wrote:
    Hudson Grandpa, Okay, now I am with you. Currently the interior of the car is completely gutted from the headliner to the carpeting and everything in between. There was extensive surface rust in this car on the inside. From trunk to the firewall It has been completely wire-brushed, have applied a rust converter, and is now in primer. Thank God that part is over. Hopefully a year from now I will have the car 's interior professionally done. Right now I am completely going through each door. Getting the bolts out that fasten the hinge to the door is a real chore.



    Doug



    Doug,



    With regard to getting the hinge bolts out, I'll pass along some advice I received on this forum a couple of years ago. If you have access to air, which I assume you do, given the scope of your work on the car, you need to buy a tool called 'Shake N Break'. You won't believe how easily it will remove those screws. Here's a link to a source:



    http://www.amazon.com/Shake-N-Break-Air-Impact-Screw-Remover/dp/B000X282UK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1235569932&sr=8-4



    There is also a long thread in this forum's archives regarding this tool here:



    http://www.classiccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9245



    Good luck,

    Doug
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Though I dont believe this follows the Window Channeling thread, want to make a comment about the Shake and Break product mentioned previously.

    Attempted to order the product listed at Amazon under http://www.amazon.com/Shake-N-Break-...5569932&sr=8-4

    No longer available or they just ran out. Sorry, would like to have had one to try. Thanks, Bob



    Trying to order a good used one now. Will let you know if possible. Thanks,
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Heart Of Texas wrote:
    I have started a HOW TO DO sheet that should take anyone through the process of rechanneling thier Hudson Stepdown windows. If all goes well I will post a link here early next week.

    Cheers

    :confused: The How to install Stepdown Hudson Window channel is located at this URL: http://hudsonrestoration1948-54.com/PDFFiles/Hudson_Stepdown_window_channel_replacement.pdf

    You CAN NOT access this paper via my Stepdown Site at this time..:eek:

    Click on the link above and the paper will display on your computer screen if you have Adobe Reader installed. If you do not have the reader you will be offered the opportunity to save the article to your computer. Google Adobe to find a free reader download if needed.

    Hope this will help those of you who are doing the change or pondering how to accomplish. Good Luck

    :)
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