The attached photo shows an assembled clip plus another clip disassembled into its two components. The flat piece of the clip fits horizontally against the slide of the fiberboard facing toward the body shell and the open end of the loop hooks into the slot in the base. The "point" of the loop fits into a drilled hole in the body.

Unfortunately these clips rust out and no one makes a substitute. I only need a half-dozen to mount my new fiberboard panels, but I'd be happy to buy extras in just about any quantity. Don't care if they're new or rusty used, only that they will hold together. If you know of a substitute mounting process, I'm all eyes & ears.

Peter Sefton

Looking for a fuel pump flow through for startups so I can take less time off my starter use .

When carb fills up she fires right up .

Thanks in Advance!

Sincerely,

Jon Battle

detailed@verizon.net

I want to pull the steering box from my 36 T to get it checked out. Does anyone know if the box comes out by itself or does the steering wheel have to come off and the whole shaft gets removed with it?

Thanks for any info and advice 👍

Jeff

I have collected all the parts and components necessary to rebuild a 1955 Hudson Hornet motor. My interest in this project has waned, and I would like to sell the entire collection to another Hudson enthusiast.

I am selling everything as a single unit for $2,000. This price reflects a partial recovery of my costs for the repair parts; the engine block, crank, head, and tins are included at no additional cost. Please note that I will not sell individual pieces, and the deal is "all or nothing."

The buyer is responsible for pickup, as shipping is not included.

If you are interested,

contact me at HotHudsons@gmail.com with the subject line: 1955 HUDSON ENGINE.

Best regards,

Ken

regards, Tom

Bought a directional turn signal switch for my 54 Hornet. Directions say 3 prong flasher. My car has a 2 prong flasher. Will this switch work with my 2 prong flasher?

Thanks for any in formation.

Thanks!

Most other stuck bolts I would use the welder and/or heat on the bolt head but I would be very reluctant to use that method on the flywheel. Fortunately the back end of the bolt is exposed and you can work on that. The method is to put a bolt in the back end of the plug and use that to turn the plug out

Step 1 The plugs are 1/2" x 20 tpi, so drill and tap for either a 3/8" or M10 bolt depending on what part of the world you live in. Conveniently the plugs have a centre hole (mine did anyway) so you know you are drilling bang on centre. Drill right through the bolt BUT only tap half the depth of the hole.

Step 2 Screw your 3/8" or M10 bolt into the hole, it will bottom at the end of the threads and drive the plug out.

Step 3 Make replacement plugs. I started with 1/2" x 20 bolts, shortened them, reduced the head height (I made my heads 1/4" high rather than the original 1/8") cleaned out the threads under the head to make sure the head of the new plug screws against the flywheel.

The fluid was changed every couple of years since the late 90s.

Shifts very nice.

Needs a new fluid coupling.

My 50 super has tried frying its OD unit (x2) due to a failing seal

Single Lever R-10 OD

What is the modern part number for that rear shaft seal?

Thanks in Advance!

Can Someone assist me in understanding how bumper guards go on?

I have a NOS bumper guard set with all the hardware but am so lost as to install them .

regards, Tom

still going through the bits, a lot no good for my 1927, e.g. Marvel VE carburetor

Thanks, Alan

The one on my car is looking like getting close to rusting through!

"Essentially, I think the transmission needs the front pump resealed. It likes to dump it's transmission fluid while parked."

(Maybe one of you Step-Down owners has encountered the same problem?)

The friend lives in the Silver Spring, MD area, but I assume he'd be willing to remove and transport the transmission to a shop somewhere in the Pennsylvania / Maryland / New York area. 

I'd be grateful for any suggestions I might pass along. And of course, if you know of a mid-Atlantic shop that deals with these old trannies, we'd like to spread its name around amongst our Chesapeake Bay Chapter (H-E-T) members!

A few months ago I was returning from a road trip and I noticed that I had left the electric pump on. I turned off the switch and a few moments later the car started to buck and stall. I switched the electric pump back on and the car smoothed out and ran fine the rest of the trip.

I assumed the mechanical pump was bad and had it replaced, but I'm still having the same problem. The car seems to be starved for gas and it will stall out if I try to run on the mechanical pump alone.

The only thing I can think of is that the mechanical pump does not have enough strength to pull the gas through the electric pump, but I've had this setup for several years and never had a problem before. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks!

Thank you in advance.

Kim

I have no connection to this firm, but to any owners in the Chicago, Southern Wisconsin area, these guys are excellent. In business since 1952. I brought them a starter on Wednesday afternoon, they called me Friday morning! New bushing, checked the shaft runout, turned the armature, replaced the brushes. The motor runs like new and all in less than 48 hrs! The company is MG auto electric. (No connection to the MG brand). I believe it stands for the location of the shop, Morton Grove, Illinois. Great guys, the place is a throw back to where my Dad took starters and generators in the 1950’s to 1980’s. 

Highly recommended.

https://www.mgautoelectric.com/

Regards, Tom

Thanks,

Rich