Tired of overflowing carbs?

Unknown

I have designed a replacement float valve for the old-style needle and seat in WA-1 Carter carbs. This eliminates the problem of overflowing carbs, usually after long periods of no running. The carb dries out, the float lowers and when the gas start flowing back in again, the needle binds and causes overflowing. I came up with my solution after fighting my Twin-H setup on my '52 Hornet for about a year. If I drove it every week, there was no problem. But if it sat for 2 weeks or more, one or sometimes both of the carbs would overflow, and I had to rap the carb bowl with a screwdriver handle to get the needle and float to pop back up again. I call my product the "Craig Valve", and it uses two stainless balls to replace the traditional needle. The balls are swedged into a brass housing that screws into the carb lid just like the original one did. My design, however, doesn't care how low the float gets, it won't stick open. My ad is in the White Triangle News magazine of the HET Club. I can also make "Craig Valves" for the WDO carbs if there is enough interest.

Park_W

These things work! Nice not to worry about whether the carb is going to overflow after it's been sitting a while.

[Deleted User]

I just rebuilt my WA-1 from my Pacemaker using the kit from Dave Kostansek. I noticed that whereas the original needle valve was all brass, the new one is rubber on the taper that goes into the seat. I never had trouble with the old one sticking, but I'll keep an eye on the new one to see if it behaves differently.

middletom

[Deleted User]

hudvic29 wrote:

I have designed a replacement float valve for the old-style needle and seat in WA-1 Carter carbs. This eliminates the problem of overflowing carbs, usually after long periods of no running. The carb dries out, the float lowers and when the gas start flowing back in again, the needle binds and causes overflowing. I came up with my solution after fighting my Twin-H setup on my '52 Hornet for about a year. If I drove it every week, there was no problem. But if it sat for 2 weeks or more, one or sometimes both of the carbs would overflow, and I had to rap the carb bowl with a screwdriver handle to get the needle and float to pop back up again. I call my product the "Craig Valve", and it uses two stainless balls to replace the traditional needle. The balls are swedged into a brass housing that screws into the carb lid just like the original one did. My design, however, doesn't care how low the float gets, it won't stick open. My ad is in the White Triangle News magazine of the HET Club. I can also make "Craig Valves" for the WDO carbs if there is enough interest.

Hi: I suspect if you post contact information here others who use WA1 carburators and do not subscribe to the WTN could be interested in the product?

rambos_ride

Heart_Of_Texas wrote:

Hi: I suspect if you post contact information here others who use WA1 carburators and do not subscribe to the WTN could be interested in the product?

I'll be refitting some WA1 carbs soon I'd like to get ahold of some!

Aaron D. IL

I think some Studebakers used Carter WA-1s too.

Park_W

Bill Craig, maker of these valves, can be reached at hetscraig10@juno.com (delete the "het" for actual address).

Unknown

For those of you who want info on purchasing "Craig Valves", I can be reached at scraig10@juno.com, or (719) 591-0322. The price is $25 @ or $40 for two, with $3.25 for shipping and insurance. They do work really well and will eliminate your overflowing problems once and for all.

Unknown

I have plenty of carbs if you need some I have over 150 carbs here all hudson or carter I should say but have almost all the styles I can think of should you need some.

Unknown

I want to thank all of you who ordered some of my "Craig Valves" from my post. I've also discussed with a couple of you how to balance the Twin-H setups using a manometer. It really smooths out your engine! The manometers can be obtained at motorcyle shops and they run about $100 and can be used on up to four carbs at once. (hudvic29) scraig10@juno.com

SuperDave

Got my Craig Valves today and they are a quality item. Installed per the instructions and work great. Now to leave it parked for a week and see what happens.. thanks for a great part BILL.

dave W.

Unknown

Dave,

Glad you like them. On my Hornet tho, it was OK as long as I drove it every week. The problems came if I let it sit two weeks or more. But, with my valves, it doesn't make any difference how long it sits, no overflowing!

Bill

Unknown

I just wanted to let you fellows know that as of 1 Jun 09, reluctantly, I have had to raise the price a little on my "Craig Valves. Materials have gone up since I started making them and shipping has also increased. They will now be $27.50 @, or $50 @ pair, with S&H/insurance running $3.50 for one or $4 for a pair. I'm sorry for the increase, but I have been absorbing the extra cost now for too long, and I still want to be able to supply you car guys with an excellent product that ends your float bowl problems. They're still a bargain, considering what an engine fire could cost you! Thanks for your patronage. Bill Craig, scraig10@juno.com, (719) 591-0322

SuperDave

Still worth the price. Mine have proved to be one of the best purchases I have made for my Twin H. No more stuck floats.."Oh what a relief it is" Now to add a small electric pump to prime those carbs after long storage times.

Park_W

I've been using mine now for a few weeks, both on the '47 C8 and the Twin-H Hornet, and they're working great.