Rust Converter

Unknown

I've read all the threads on products such as Por-15 and Rust Bullet, but am curious about how good the so-called "Rust Converter" is that one can buy at parts houses. I've used it and it definitely turns rust black, but does it actually convert it to something else? If I prime over it say on my frame will rust come back? Will it protect a future project sitting outside? I painted the roof of an old IHC truck that was solid rust about 6 mos. ago and it's not rusty but it isn't that black color anymore either. Just wondering if anyone has used it, painted over it and what happened.

RL Chilton

Por-15 is a great product, but very good care must be taken using it. Rubber gloves, respirator, old worn out clothes. If you get that stuff on your skin, you're wearing it until it wears off, literally. I've used it before, and no complaints.



On my current project, I've decided to go with Eastwood's Rust Convertor (now sold in a 1-part either aerosol or by the quart). It can be sprayed with a conventional gun, brushed on, or sprayed with the aerosol can. Afterwards, it's best to go over the Rust Convertor with the "Rust Encapsulator". Then prime and paint as usual. Great stuff, I'm sold. Actually converts the rust to an inert form, then the Encapsulator seals it off from the air and moisture so the metal won't continue to rust. Mostly using it inside door skeletons, inside frame members, floor pans, places that are hard or nearly impossible to blast. You can buy a "kit" that has several cans in a batch, price is cheaper.



Both are good solutions, though: the Por-15 and the "Rust Convertor".

Unknown

Sulfuric acid in the converter turns the rust into iron pyrite which is like a hard black rock

Unknown

coreywalker wrote:

I've read all the threads on products such as Por-15 and Rust Bullet, but am curious about how good the so-called "Rust Converter" is that one can buy at parts houses. I've used it and it definitely turns rust black, but does it actually convert it to something else? If I prime over it say on my frame will rust come back? Will it protect a future project sitting outside? I painted the roof of an old IHC truck that was solid rust about 6 mos. ago and it's not rusty but it isn't that black color anymore either. Just wondering if anyone has used it, painted over it and what happened.

I didn't have much rust on my '48, but I don't want any either, so during my rebuild I used Eastwood's products. I did the underside in 2000, and am now currently doing a complete dissassembly and reassembly. The entire car is surrounded by Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator. Check out the link below. The page 2 pictures show my current progress.

rambos_ride

Rust...the bane of a true hot-rodders experience!

Once it starts you can't kill it or stop it - without removing it - period, end of story.

That being said, I am a fan of using rust converters, and rust encapsulator products to SLOW THINGS DOWN.

Bottom line is - if your car has rust it will come back, but with these products it will be YEARS before any touch ups are needed - IF the products are applied correctly.

I do find Eastwoods products easy to use and they hold up well over time from my experience. The only thing that "gets my goat" is the 28% price jump in the last year or so...a gallon of Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator - not on sale - is 145.00 :eek:

But none of the other products are any cheaper.

Uncle Josh

Your local Tru Value hardware sells a couple of products which do the same job as the Eastwood stuff.



One is called 'Hammerite' which comes in several colors. You can also get it in spray cans and on the internet.



Rust Oleum Hammered is close to the same stuff. Also in several colors. Both are Xylol solvent based so you'd better get a can of it for clean-up. Mineral Spirits and 'Likker thanner' won't touch it.



Just wire brush the loose rust and paint it on. It's a glass-filled epoxy. Dries quick and hard, and only about $13 a quart.

rambos_ride

Uncle Josh wrote:

Your local Tru Value hardware sells a couple of products which do the same job as the Eastwood stuff.

One is called 'Hammerite' which comes in several colors. You can also get it in spray cans and on the internet.

Rust Oleum Hammered is close to the same stuff. Also in several colors. Both are Xylol solvent based so you'd better get a can of it for clean-up. Mineral Spirits and 'Likker thanner' won't touch it.

Just wire brush the loose rust and paint it on. It's a glass-filled epoxy. Dries quick and hard, and only about $13 a quart.

I've used Hammerite on several things over the years, but mostly parts or non-automotive related steel items...table legs, brakets etc..

The only issue I'd keep in mind when using any of these types of products, especially in an automotive application, is if these materials can be topcoated with whatever other types of substrate you're going to use (ie, catalyzed primers and paints)

Just something else to keep in mind because if you spend $1500 on paint and materials you don't want to spend all the time and money, have a paint adhesion failure down the road and have to redo it again!

[Deleted User]

coreywalker wrote:

I've read all the threads on products such as Por-15 and Rust Bullet, but am curious about how good the so-called "Rust Converter" is that one can buy at parts houses. I've used it and it definitely turns rust black, but does it actually convert it to something else? If I prime over it say on my frame will rust come back? Will it protect a future project sitting outside? I painted the roof of an old IHC truck that was solid rust about 6 mos. ago and it's not rusty but it isn't that black color anymore either. Just wondering if anyone has used it, painted over it and what happened.

Good Morning Corey,



Good Morning Corey,



You may have to cut and paste links, however if interested, in my case, after reading Rambo's and others pass posts I took advantage of their rust experience/recommendations; after removal of every nut, bolt & sheet metal parts then scrapping/blasting down to bare metal, maybe overkill I used three quarts of POR-15 for both undercarriage and entire interior followed by spraying interior only with following:



http://www.lizardskin.com/lizard_skin/street_rods.php



http://www.classiccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16219&highlight=Hornet+restoration



http://www.classiccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16380&highlight=Hornet+restoration



This week gas tank was cleaned, and both gas tank and Quick Performance Ford 9" Rear-End Package were painted and should be installed by the weekend.



Ray