Drums to disc

Unknown

Kinda wondering if there are any after market spindels for this 49 that will convert my old drums in the front to disc for better stopping power instead of a mustang or nova sub front end. Have a 75 olds with discs in the front buts its wider wondering if i take out 5 inches in th emiddle to make it skinner if that would wolk been in cars that have drums all around takes awhile to stop them in this rat race times we live in

rambos_ride

stffy64 wrote:

Kinda wondering if there are any after market spindels for this 49 that will convert my old drums in the front to disc for better stopping power instead of a mustang or nova sub front end. Have a 75 olds with discs in the front buts its wider wondering if i take out 5 inches in th emiddle to make it skinner if that would wolk been in cars that have drums all around takes awhile to stop them in this rat race times we live in

DO a search of the forum on "LaBuds" or "Disk Brake Conversion" and you'll find his conversion and a couple others and some pictures.



I've heard the LaBuds setup bolts in or out in 30 minutes - meaning you could put the original back in for some reason if you ever wanted too.



Within the search results of will be information on swapping Lincoln Discs in the rear - if you were going to keep the oringal axel.

[Deleted User]

how about just adding power assist ? the hot rod set has master cylinder / booster assembly that mounts on the frame instead of the firewall. ever try the power brakes in a late 50's mopar with drum brakes ? throw ya into the dash...

50C8DAN

You can install a Hydrovac power brake unit like the late 50 GM, Studebakers (through 64 on some models), and I believe Ford trucks into the early 70's pretty easily. You can get them on ebay at a pretty low price depending upon condition. I plan to put one on my 50 C8 when it gets done.

Unknown

Here's some pictures of my "LaBuds" conversion on my '48. Well worth the money, and can be put back to original. (don't know why you'd want to go back to drum)

Unknown

How much was it through labuds for the conversion kits ?? Dont want to start hacking on the olds for nothing but thats what i got it for the motor and tranny and the rear end and for whatever.

rambos_ride

wkitchens wrote:

Here's some pictures of my "LaBuds" conversion on my '48. Well worth the money, and can be put back to original. (don't know why you'd want to go back to drum)

WKitches - I know you have shared many cool pics with us here at the forum - like these - do you have a website with more pics of your mods posted?



If not you should - I'd love to look at them from time to time for inspiration!

Unknown

It seems to me the LaBuds conversion looks reasonably straigth forward,and from what I hear, it is a good price!



from reading this thread, i am now considering looking into this more.



Is this something you can do to the front only,and leave the back alone?

rambos_ride

hudsonkid wrote:

It seems to me the LaBuds conversion looks reasonably straigth forward,and from what I hear, it is a good price!



from reading this thread, i am now considering looking into this more.



Is this something you can do to the front only,and leave the back alone?

There shouldn't be any reason you can't do this.



This discussion link has some great pictures of the Labuds setup and some other detail on installing a newer master cylinder where they install residual valves which keep the pressure from bleeding from the calipers



http://www.classiccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1924&highlight=residual

dwardo99

We put a hydrovac on our Hornet. We had it rebuilt locally and it was quite expensive to have done. A disk brake would be preferable and the money spent on rebuilding it would have gone a long way toward the parts, but it will definitely stand the car on its nose. No lack of brakes on that car!

bob ward

I've recently bought a LaBud kit. Its not on the 53 yet but I've done a trial assembly on a spare stub axle to see how it all works, and the kit is well thought out and well made.



I'm thinking I might also install a 54 pendulum pedal, then I can mount a booster on the firewall with a 2 circuit disc/drum master cylinder.

Unknown

Sorry "Rambo's Ride", but I don't have a website. I wish I did. I've got a Brother-In-Law, that's my computer Guru, but he's been so busy with his Program Design buisness, I'm waaaay down at the bottom of the list of "things to do". I wish I did have a site, like yours, but my computer skills are very limited, so I'd need someone to do it for me. Until then, I'll just keep taking the before/after pictures, and post them, a few at a time, and answer questions by email.

Unknown

I recently had one of Labuds front disc kits inslalled on a '41 truck and am having a lot of problems with it. I had separate front/rear Willwood(3/4') master cylinders plus 2/10 residual valves installed. With Labuds kit installed and all shimmed up the braking efficiency was good but the fronts weren't releasing fully, leaving the pads dragging a little, enough to cause heat build up and eventually the front wheels would lock up.The main mounting bracket seems to be at fault here, the calipers slide freely on the pins but there never seemed enough clearance with the pads in so we took a little off the pads to help this.The mounting bracket appeared to flex when brake pressure was applied but didn't appear to go back when pressure was released, what we think is happening is that the bracket is acually bending under load causing the calipers to hold over on the discs. Although the brackets are thick due to the shape of them they will bend out of shape quite easily in a vice and were a few mm. out of shape when removed and checked for straightness. What we are looking at now is making new stronger brackets and see how that works.This kit cost me $600 which is OK if it works properly, just recently I've spent enough time at the side of the road working on this, and one time even had to limp home with just rear brakes.

Unknown

R & J, by 2/10, I hope you mean a 2lb residual valve on the front, and 10lb on the rear, assuming you have "drums" on the rear. If you mean you have (2) 10lb residuals, that's the problem. Disc require a 2 lb, so a 10 lb WOULD make your brakes drag, and heat up. Sorry to hear you're having problems, because I've traveled thousands of trouble-free miles with my conversion on my '48. If you can post some pictures, maybe we can help. Hopefully, it's just a matter of having the wrong residual valve. One other thing, make sure your residual valves are as close to the "mastercylinder" as possible.

Unknown

wkitchens wrote:

R & J, by 2/10, I hope you mean a 2lb residual valve on the front, and 10lb on the rear, assuming you have "drums" on the rear. If you mean you have (2) 10lb residuals, that's the problem. Disc require a 2 lb, so a 10 lb WOULD make your brakes drag, and heat up. Sorry to hear you're having problems, because I've traveled thousands of trouble-free miles with my conversion on my '48. If you can post some pictures, maybe we can help. Hopefully, it's just a matter of having the wrong residual valve. One other thing, make sure your residual valves are as close to the "mastercylinder" as possible.

Hi, sorry if I didn't explain that fully. yes I do have a 2lb valve to the front and 10lb valve to the rear which is a 9' Ford unit with drum brakes. They are both mounted up front close to the individual 3/4'ID master cylinders. I do not have a servo assist unit fitted and pedal travel needed to be limited for various reasons. I will take some pictures and post them here ASAP. Thanks so far, any further help always appreciated as I'm off the road untill I get it fixed (too scary with only a handbrake for a quick stop ) At present the shop doing the work fitted a bias bar instead of the valve and that has left me with less brake efficiency so I'm waiting for a slot with them to have it back in