WA-1 Test Fit

rambos_ride
rambos_ride Senior Contributor
edited November -1 in HUDSON
It took me a while to figure out what I wanted to do with the carb/parts refinishing - more time because I have to work with what I have, no money to do cool stuff like powder coating :(

It also took a bit of time to clean and surface parts than I thought, doing it by hand mostly and my bead blaster.

Initially the carb body coloring was bothering me ~ because all the carbs I have showed no noticeable "gold" finish at all on the exterior. During dissassembly I did note some areas that where posssibly gold tinted - but it looked more like overspray; Then Russell sent me a carb body and it did show some exterior gold tint :confused:

On the cast iron base I decided to go "Resale-Red" (same as the intake ~ High heat ceramic paint 500 degrees)

I also broke out the Electroplating kit and have plated/polished all the external linkage parts and throttle/choke valves... Also, I wasn't happy with the condition of the slotted machine screws that hold the carb together so I bought Allen head replacements that came with a black oxide finish - so I plated those as well!

BaseWA1.jpg
BaseWA1_1.jpg


Basically the carb bodies are cast aluminum so there are several options for refinishing depending on budget, and if a restoration or custom look is wanted...

1. Polishing
2. Powder Coating
3. Clean Only
4. Annodizing
5. Etching
6. Painting

* Polishing is a cool look but eXtremely time consuming and not worth the effort in this application.

* Powder coating can recreate the original look or give a nice custom apperance, but no tools and No money to experiment with!

* Cleaning only, the base aluminum color looks good cleaned but offers ZERO protection from oxidation - not an option for me.

* Annodizing can produce a cool custom look, but doubtful you could do this to recreate the original finish. No money to experiment with!

* Etching, it's very possible this it what the original carbs fihsers had done. By using an etching solution or etching primer applied as a very light coating this would produce the light gold color. But again, No money buy these materials to experiment with!

* Painted carb bodies look good, many folks paint them the same color as the body or engine block in a custom application....but not really the look I wanted.

I have seen others have used the Eastwood carb renew products and to my GREAT surprise - about 2 years ago I bought a bunch of Eastwood stuff which included

Bronze Carb Renew - 1 can
Silver Carb Renew - 1 can
(Carb Renew is acrylic enamel, fuel/heat resistent 300 degrees)
Diamond Satin Clear - 1 can
(Sating Clear is acrylic enamel, fuel/heat resistent 350 degrees)
Metal Blackening - 1 Kit
Electroplating Tin Zinc - 1 Kit

I used a test piece and tried clear only, silver only, gold only.

The "clear only" didn't come out well IMO because the raw aluminum base color and surface imperfections where really brought out by the clear coat.

Both the silver only, gold only options - looked good but didn't have the "translucent" quality I was looking for.

So I blasted the test piece to bare aluminum again and did the following

1. Apply one light coat of Silver; Only enough material applied to give uniform base color (like shooting a candy apple base color)

2. Apply one mist coat of Bronze; Here's where you have to be careful to get a uniform color and not too much to hide the silver basecoat.

3. Apply 2 coats Satin Clear

This 3 step process gave me the look I was after and the protection on the aluminum parts ~I know it's all overkill and no one will ever know, but I couldn't help myself :D

BaseWA1_2.jpg

Comments

  • Great post and a great solution. Isn't it all about creative problem solving? If we had unlimited time and unlimited funds to restore our cars we could just give them to someone else to do the job for us, but where would the fun be in that? And thanks for taking the time to describe & document your results. Every time I come on this forum I learn something I can apply to my own project.



    Tom
  • RL Chilton
    RL Chilton Administrator, Member
    There's nothing wrong with that, Dan. It looks great and very informative post! Glad that carb body worked for you. The read base will go well with the red air cleaners. Couple of things that popped in my head: Do you have the choke cover for it? Isn't this 1/2 of a Twin-H and do you have everything you need for the other carb?



    I'm not reall sure how the original finish was put on, but I've been curious about it, as most people don't finish it back the way it originally was. I do believe these were gold-colored, but the original gold was like a translucent type of gold that really showed the aluminum underneath.
  • jjbubaboy
    jjbubaboy Senior Contributor
    Hey Dan,

    Looks great! You are going to use washers under those lock washers arent ya?

    And I am curious what screws onto the choke housing at the bottom? I just added a WA1 to my 36T and need to locate that part once I know what it is!

    Any ideas?

    Thanks,

    T Jeff
  • mars55
    mars55 Senior Contributor
    jjbubaboy wrote:
    Hey Dan,

    Looks great! You are going to use washers under those lock washers arent ya?

    And I am curious what screws onto the choke housing at the bottom? I just added a WA1 to my 36T and need to locate that part once I know what it is!

    Any ideas?

    Thanks,

    T Jeff



    Are you referring to the threaded tube projecting out of the bottom of the choke housing?
  • rambos_ride
    rambos_ride Senior Contributor
    jjbubaboy wrote:
    Hey Dan,
    Looks great! You are going to use washers under those lock washers arent ya?
    And I am curious what screws onto the choke housing at the bottom? I just added a WA1 to my 36T and need to locate that part once I know what it is!
    Any ideas?
    Thanks,
    T Jeff


    It's a fitting for the automatic choke from a heat riser/source.

    If you go to any parts store you should be able to find a universal kit for choke repair that comes with tubing and connector, usually you attack the other end to the exhaust with an enclosed clamp.

    The heat source can come from anywhere and just relaxes the spring insdide to open the butterfly.
  • jjbubaboy
    jjbubaboy Senior Contributor
    OK cool thanks! I figured it was for the choke but didnt know their was a universal part to hook to it.

    Jeff
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