HOt fuel problem on my Terraplane...

jjbubaboy

Hey all,

OK so I finally got my temperature under control and now she runs between 160-180.

Now when I shut down the fuel gets hot enough that I can see it boiling in the fuel pump glass! So then I have to wait for it to cool before I can start back up.

Questions are: 1) The fuel line from the pump to carb is steel. Should I change to copper or rubber?

2) I still have the mud pan on, should I take them off?

3) Maybe wrap some heat wrap around the fuel pump?



What I have done: Wrapped the exhaust pipe, heat shield under the carb, and built a heat shield around the pump.

Anyones experiences, help and advice is appreciated as always!

Thank you,

T Jeff

Geoff

Definitely DO NOT change over to copper fule pipes. copper holds th heat much longer than steel. Also don't wrap the fuel pump, it will not dissipate heat from the engine block if you do this. Yes, take the mud pan off to get better air circulation around the engine, and make up an extended heat shield between the manifold and the carby. I did this on my Jet, and it cured the problem. I extended it 6 inches forward. You say you have built a heat shielad "aroun d the pump". check that this allow free circulation of air around the pump. Re- plumb the pipe from the pump to the carb as far away from the exhaust as you can. good luck,

Geoff.

[Deleted User]

I know a purist would give me some flack ,but where are the purists when you're on the roadside waiting for the car to cool off after vapor lock?? Anyway. get to an auto supply house that sells braided gasoline.This is the type thats used on older German and British imports. Cut the metal fuel line off about 3 inches from where it connects to the fuel filter on one end and the fuel pump on the other. . Clamp on the rubber fuel line and give yourself the option of routing it closer to the dust shield than the manifold. Rubber insulates the gas and prevents percolation. Steel fuel lines next to the manifold "cook" it. I've used this setup on my Hornet and it's never had any vapor lock. Forget the clothes pins and copper just use a good grade of rubber fuel line. Good luck.

[Deleted User]

I just bought some of that cheap reflective, heat insulating wrap for NAPA. I have had good results with wrapping the fuel line where is comes anywhere close to the engine, especially the manifold. I have had no fuel vapor-lock problems since!

Now if I could just keep it from running so HOT!...slim

[Deleted User]

While enroute to Detroit for the National Hudson Meet, my '50 Pacemaker Deluxe(!) suffered from vapor lock. This occured at a rest stop in Michigan just east of the Indiana-Michigan border after a long hot drive through the Chicago area where I originated my journey. After picking up a new Michigan road map I returned to my Hudson and when I cranked over the engine the first thing I noticed was that it turned over slower than usual. It caught after about 15 seconds of cranking and I then backed out of my parking bay and then shifted into first gear only to have the engine stall out after going about 50 feet. Fortunately I had enough momentum to coast into another parking bay. I knew this was vapor lock from a few past experiences. Thankfully, the rest stop had cool water which I poured over the fuel pump and adjacent fuel lines and that did the trick. No more problems. I later purchased a gallon of distilled water just in case. But, wouldn't you know, no more vapor lock either going to Detroit or coming back (I had to leave the National show early due to my work with the railroad-by the way, an outstanding show for what I was able to enjoy!). I think it bears repeating that today's auto fuels with alcohol added improves the chances for vapor lock on older engines that were not designed for this kind of gas. So, do consider the advice for mentioned earlier as I will for helping to prevent this situation and do keep some water handy in the trunk just in case all else fails!

[Deleted User]

So, now we have some excellent tips on vapor-lock, I'm dying to know how the original poster controled his overheating...slim

[Deleted User]

For what it is worth use Walts method of routing the excess fuel back to the tank and you won't have vapor lock again. It keeps the fuel flowing enough not to boil in the lines

jjbubaboy

Thank you all for the great replies!



I dont want to pour water on my fuel pump as it is of the glass bowl type and original so I dont want it to break, but on the body this would probably help.

Going to switch to rubber line and reroute it, that sounds good.

I would like more info on Walts way of rerouting fuel back to the tank and how this could be done with the original design.



And Denver heres what I did: 1) had the radiator recored with a 3 row core same size and dimensions, 2) built a fan shroud for better air direction, 3) changed my non bypass water pump and no thermostat housing to a bypass pump and added a thermostat and the correct housing. Thermostat is a 165 degree one. 4) Took off the water jacket cover and made sure the area inside was cleaned out and had to reweld in a new baffle on the cover as mine was pretty rusty and 'holy' more than necessary!

I will try to post some pics of some of the changes.



T Jeff

Unknown

denverslim wrote:

So, now we have some excellent tips on vapor-lock, I'm dying to know how the original poster controled his overheating...slim

Mine overheated because the timing was set wrong (retarded).

Jon B

jjbubaboy wrote:

What I have done: Wrapped the exhaust pipe, heat shield under the carb, and built a heat shield around the pump.

Anyones experiences, help and advice is appreciated as always!

Thank you,

T Jeff

T. Jeff, this doesn't pertain to your bubbling fuel glass, but...you DO have plenty of fiber spacers above and below the carb heat shield....right? I think I have 4 under and 4 over.



Again, this would not affect the fuel in the pump itself, it's merely an "aside" to you.

jjbubaboy

Hey Jon,

Ummm...no. Dont have what looks like more than one below, and just a gasket above. Dont think the studs are long enough for more than that.

Hmm..thats interesting.

Thanks,

T Jeff

jjbubaboy

Pics of fan shroud etc.

T Jeff

[Deleted User]

My 36 doesn't have any insulators under the carb either, I don't think there is room. The step downs have them under the carb and fuel pump, not so sure the older ones did. Nice work on the water jacket. I haven't had a chance to drive my newly overhauled engine yet, so don't know about any heating problems. I can idle it without any trouble. I had my radiator recored and the engine was boiled out, so I hope I don't.

The engine did have a 5 bladed fan on it, but I went back with the stock four blade.

jjbubaboy

Hey Scott,

Good luck when you do get er runnin!

If you had it boiled out it should be just fine.

Thanks on the water jacket, not too much of a problem

Was that 5 blade a stock one? Why did you change back?

I guess see if there is any difference.



T Jeff

Geoff

Just a thought on the radiator shroud - it's not going to do too much I'm afraid. To be effective it should be formed back into a cone that fits right around the periphery of the fan blades, to allow it to draw air from right around the radiator core.

[Deleted User]

Jeff,
I guess I change from the 5 blade back to stock because with everything new I was hoping that I wouldn't need it, and I had a friend with a 47 truck that really wanted it.
I also wondered why it was a 5 blade instead of a 6 blade. I have never seen another 5 blade, but maybe they were common at some point.