'36 gas tank sender unit

terraplane8

I've got the tank out to patch up a rust hole, and also to look at why the gauge isn't working. The sender unit seems to move up and down nicely and looks in good condition, not rusty at all plus the float looks fine. However what looks like a condensor on the outside is definitely not alright. Any suggestions on what the modern equivalent of this condensor is? Hopefully that will be the cause.



If not, what is the test for the dash gauge?



Thanks in advance.

Park_W

The condenser is a radio noise suppressor. It's to reduce or eliminate "pops" in the radio when the contacts in the sending unit open and close. If you've got no radio or you have a modern one, just remove that condenser and trash it.



Basic test for the gauge is to turn the ignition on and ground the wire at the tank that connects to the sender. The gauge should swing over toward the FULL side. Don't hold the wire grounded for very long ... just enough to verify that the gauge needle went to the full position. You can damage the gauge if you ground the sender wire for too long. If the gauge works, connect a couple of long jumper wires to the sending unit ... one from the sender terminal to the wire going to the gauge, the other from the sender case to a known good ground. Position the float arm in the center of its travel and turn the ignition on. Gauge should read approx. 1/2 full. If it does, try the float arm in other positions and see if the gauge "tracks" OK. If all's well, reinstall the sending unit and run a ground wire from one of the mounting screws to a good ground. You should be in business.



If the gauge doesn't swing when you ground the sender wire, you could have a break in the wire going to the sender. Get under the dash and determine which wire to the gauge is the "hot" wire from the ignition switch (you should be able to see that). With the ignition on, ground the other terminal on the gauge. The needle should swing toward FULL. If it does, but doesn't when you ground the wire at the sender, that wire is bad. If the gauge doesn't move when you ground the "sender terminal" on it, start looking for another gauge. There are actually quite a few '36 instrument clusters out there. I can't remember a flea market when I didn't see one.

[Deleted User]

Terraplane8,



I have a 36 also and sent my sender out for repair to a shop that specializes in that, and I have used several times. PM me if you would like their info. I believe the condenser was added when a radio was installed in the car. The maintenance manual has you putting them on the generator, fuel sender and head temp probe. I don't believe they were a requirement for the gas gage. Maybe Geoff Clark will jump in here and verify that.

Geoff

That is correct about the radio interference suppressor condensor. However, I doubt if this would be a cause of the gauge not working, as if the condensor was shorted internally the gauge would be full on. Or perhaps it did short and cooked the gauge? Good luck

Geoff.

PAULARGETYPE

I have replacement gas tank sending units they are $80 each + $5 shippng

terraplane8

I tried step one and yes the gauge works fine. Once the tank comes back I'll hook up the sender unit and see if I can get it to go. The problem may have been a poor earth between the sender unit and the frame of the car. Thanks for the tips!

terraplane8

Step 2 has found that the sender unit is faulty.



Given that I'm in NZ, it makes sense to get a replacement locally if I can.



Can anyone tell me if a late '30's Ford sender unit is the same? I seem to remember somewhere that this may be the case. As there are plenty of Fords around, hopefully I will be able to get one quickly and get driving again.

terraplane8

terraplane8 wrote:

Step 2 has found that the sender unit is faulty.



Given that I'm in NZ, it makes sense to get a replacement locally if I can.



Can anyone tell me if a late '30's Ford sender unit is the same? I seem to remember somewhere that this may be the case. As there are plenty of Fords around, hopefully I will be able to get one quickly and get driving again.

The '36-'54 Ford unit looks like the same unit except it is mounted on the top of the tank, whereas the Hudson is mounted on the side. Would that mean the float wire has to be bent to suit? Also it would need to be long enough to be able to read an empty to a full tank.



http://atwaterkentmfg.com/Fuel%20Senders.htm#14

Unknown

I have used some ford sending units on Hudsons. most of tmes yiu have to shorten the float wire and bend it to fit from bottom to top of tank. put one in a 51 pacemaker. a 52 hornet and a 47 pickup. They all worked fine. Wish I knew what would fit a Jet.

terraplane8

Billy K.TN. wrote:

I have used some ford sending units on Hudsons. most of tmes yiu have to shorten the float wire and bend it to fit from bottom to top of tank. put one in a 51 pacemaker. a 52 hornet and a 47 pickup. They all worked fine. Wish I knew what would fit a Jet.

That's handy to know, as the John Wolf quote to repair was $125, a new modern replacement one to suit the car from Atwater Kent is $145, yet a new replacement Ford type one from https://hotrodcorner.com/zeckoShop/index.php?link=details&wh=00&pn=99A-9275 is $32.75.



I've more place here in NZ to try for a repair, the first place was pretty negative so I won't waste my money there.



Does anyone know the Hudson ohm resistance range from Full to Empty? I know some ford units are 0-70 ohms, lower for Full and higher for Empty.

ESSX28-1

Got a universal sender from Repco that looks like the Bob Drake one. Works in the 28 Essex, don't know about the Terraplane - NZ$80.00

Park_W

T8, Hudson (King-Seely) sending units up through '50 were not resistive units ... they work on a bimetallic strip princliple. Some resistive type sender units will work OK, though they 're a little more sensitive to changing voltage and may need some experimentation with float arm bending to get them to read reasonably correct.

Unknown

On my 37 the sender was TOTAL CRUD ---Took it apart a bit cleaned the corrosion off the guts ---now works perfect---So if nothing actually broken clean it up