Trailer

TOM-WA-
TOM-WA- Senior Contributor
edited November -1 in HUDSON
I am looking into at a trailer to haul the wasp to various long distance events and I could use some input.



What would be the best specs for a trailer.. Length, weight towing capacity etc.







THANKS<





TOM BARRETT

Comments

  • faustmb
    faustmb Senior Contributor
    When I bought one it had 18' treads and was a dovetail style, so the ramps were short and easy to use. It hauled my 50 Pacemaker and 47 truck well, a shorter trailer would have been a problem. Also, be aware of the fender height off the deck and that this might limit your door openings. Some have removeable or hinged fenders, but mine were low enough it didn't matter.



    Good luck :)
  • Browniepetersen
    Browniepetersen Senior Contributor
    When you go looking for a trailer check out the enclosed trailers as well. When I got my trailer I thought that I would own my 52 stepdown forever. It is just three years later now and the cars that I had three years ago are now all gone, with the exception of a 1960 ElCamino. My choice was a 21 foot enclosed. It has been put to use for about every make and model that Hudson produced and has been pulled for various trips encluding a 2,000 mile'r last year. It is now currently being pressed into service as a storage bay for one of my soon to be started projects. I took a car to one of those fancy indoor two day shows two months ago and on the way there was an unbelieveable rain storm that caught me on a dirt (construction) section of road. Did not even have to dust it off. just a thought, good luck in your efforts....;):o
  • rambos_ride
    rambos_ride Senior Contributor
    Tom,

    I bought mine used, but if you get an open trailer it's hard to beat a rollback style.

    I bought a used Sloan Kwik Load Rollback 3 years ago, No ramps, easily loads a hudson without worrying about the doors hitting the fenders (the fenders are removable, if needed)

    Mines the steel 18' deck (23' overall) 8000lb (7000 towing) - these have torsion style axels and provide a really nice towing experience.

    Now all that being said, an 18' trailer lengthwise is about as short as you'd want to go hauling a 4dr Hudson it uses up nearly the full deck length.

    If I had to do it again - I'd look for the next size up, something I could haul a 10-14000lb piece of equipment that has a 20-24 ft deck.

    I'd still buy a rollback - just bigger!

    Some of your buying decision should hinge on what vehicle you're going to be towing with because you have to factor trailer wieght with the load you're towing as well.

    Having towed cars with both my 1/2 K1500 and my 1-ton K3500 - I'd never recommend towing with anything less than a 3/4 ton pickup. It's not that the 1/2 ton can't handle it - but compared to the 1-ton it's like the difference between driving an old beat up vw beetle and a new cadillac!

    Aluminum deck, steel deck, wood deck all make a difference in overall trailer weight.

    Personally I HATE surge brake trailers and wouldn't get anything but electric brakes.

    http://www.kwikload.com/index.htm

    http://www.49c8.com/images/fp/Trailer1.jpg

    ntot.jpg
  • PAULARGETYPE
    PAULARGETYPE Senior Contributor
    I bought mine used a 1999 halmark enclosed 25'long 102' wide 7,000gvw it was $4,500 a steal compaired to a new one it has all the bells and whistles. Cabnets, plywood walls, checkard board tile floors, elec. Brakes, chrome wheels,power toNGUE lift,4500 lbs wintch, big loading ramp door that folds down all diamond plate.IT ALSO HAS 2 SIDE DOORS ONE ON EACH SIDE THE ONE ON THE DRIVERS SIDE IS A GREAT THING YOU DRIVE THE CAR IN OPEN YOUR DOOR ALL THE WAY IN TO THE TRAILER SIDE DOOR IT MAKES IT EAST TO HOP OUT it was like a new trailer look on ebay there are alot cheap good luck I TOLD A FEW GOOD FRIENDS IF THEY WANTED TO USE IT IT WAS $100 EACH TIME A FEW GUYS HAVE USED IT IT HAS PAID FOR THE PLATES AND INSURANCE AND INSPECTIONS
  • I built mine in 2000. I used to sell haulers, but I wanted to design my own. So, with my design and a friends' welding skills, we built an 18-1/2' dovetail open hauler. Five inch C-channel frame, wrap tongue, 4x5 angle crossmembers every 18", two 3500# axles, electric brakes, wood deck with steel dovetail deck, 5K# Ransey electric winch with battery mount, four D-ring tiedowns, brakeaway kit, full fenders, 700-15 8-ply bias ply trailer tires, flush-mounted lighting with wiring in-conduit throughout, two 6' ramps that stow in the rear with locking ramp doors, and a 2" 7000# Bulldog hitch.



    I've put just over 60K miles towing with this since 2000. I've had to replace an axle due to a catastrophic wheel bearing failure, but other than routine maintenance (brakes, lube bearings, deck and tire replacement), it's been what I've needed for the last ten years. It hauls Stepdowns with ease (and you can open the door with the car loaded!), and has had everything from a Met to a Corvette to a '50 2-ton Dodge truck on it.



    I'll put my trailer up against any store-bought hauler out there!



    http://inlinethumb23.webshots.com/42582/2476064440073075023S600x600Q85.jpg
  • rambos_ride
    rambos_ride Senior Contributor
    66patrick66 wrote:
    I built mine in 2000. I used to sell haulers, but I wanted to design my own. So, with my design and a friends' welding skills, we built an 18-1/2' dovetail open hauler. Five inch C-channel frame, wrap tongue, 4x5 angle crossmembers every 18", two 3500# axles, electric brakes, wood deck with steel dovetail deck, 5K# Ransey electric winch with battery mount, four D-ring tiedowns, brakeaway kit, full fenders, 700-15 8-ply bias ply trailer tires, flush-mounted lighting with wiring in-conduit throughout, two 6' ramps that stow in the rear with locking ramp doors, and a 2" 7000# Bulldog hitch.

    I've put just over 60K miles towing with this since 2000. I've had to replace an axle due to a catastrophic wheel bearing failure, but other than routine maintenance (brakes, lube bearings, deck and tire replacement), it's been what I've needed for the last ten years. It hauls Stepdowns with ease (and you can open the door with the car loaded!), and has had everything from a Met to a Corvette to a '50 2-ton Dodge truck on it.

    I'll put my trailer up against any store-bought hauler out there!

    http://inlinethumb23.webshots.com/42582/2476064440073075023S600x600Q85.jpg

    Looks good!

    How'd you get the trailer titled and licensed?

    In WA you have to have a business permit to manufacture and then stamp a serial number to be able to get a title?
  • Oklahoma does NOT require a tag or title on any non-commercial trailer under 10,000 pounds GVW. I've used it in ten states and never had a problem with the cops, but I do carry the letter the State provides, explaining why it does not display a tag, just in case some Barney Fife feels the need to display his authority!
  • SuperDave
    SuperDave Senior Contributor
    In Florida all you have to do is get a certified weight on a home built trailer. Take the weight certificate to DMV and cough up some bucks. Of course I weigh mine before i install all the decking, spare tire and fenders! My next home built will be a roll back.
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