new to this

Unknown

I bought myself a 31 essex super six that sat for 55 years in a barn, And I'm not sure how to start this car. We couldn't find the key. Any help please.

RL Chilton

You might want to check the battery on it first, it's probably dead by now.:D

Unknown

replace the battery already

Unknown

Don't laugh what the 2 levers on the steering wheel for I'm going to need lots of, this my first Essex.

Jon B

Welcome to the madhouse!



First, before you try to start it, may I suggest that you not only change the oil, but drop the pans and clean them out? And maybe wipe down the interior of the engine block to get the grunge out of there? It is NOT good to start the engine with all of that old crap splashing around in there! I would suggest a 30 weight non-detergent oil (that's practically the only viscosity you can get in non-detergent anymore). Detergent oil MIGHT tend to loosen up the bad old oil and put it into circulation and you DON'T want that!



I say "pans" because you will find that there is a regular oil pan below, and a "dipper tray" that fits into the top of it. The Hudson engine (up to 1948) used a splasher system and all rods have oil dippers that scoop up the oil that's stored in little oil reservoirs in the upper tray. You can get new gaskets from Dale Cooper in Cincinnatti, I'm sure.



Meanwhile, I'm sure someone will fill you in on the correct starting procedure today. I'm from "a later era" (1937), and we don't have to contend with adjusting the spark advance on our cars!

Jon B

Here is an on-line owner's manual for a 1930 Essex (evidently the '31 isn't available yet). http://www.hudsonterraplane.com/tech/1930/1930EssexInstructionBook.pdf



Go to this page for Gregg Maroney's page, listing other on-line books for your year (scroll down), all of which have been graciously scanned and uploaded by our good Hudsonite friend Alex Burr. http://www.hudsonterraplane.com/tech/tech_index.htm



PS-- I don't know if you're already in the H-E-T Club, but if so, you might want to look through your roster to see if there are any Essex owners nearby, from whom you might obtain technical advice, mechanical tips, or information on parts. Or even spare parts if they have more than they need! There are probably a lot of similar parts on '28, '29, '30 and '31 Essexes, especially mechanical parts.

RL Chilton

98truck-

Just kidding. I'd help out more, but I'm from later on in the production, as well. All the advice Jon gave you should be most helpful and keep you busy for a while.

Keep us posted on your progress!

oldhudsons

If it is original you will find a vacuum tank on the left upper firewall. This makes it easier for you to do an initial engine start (& I too would strongly suggest you take Jon's advice in re dropping the pans & cleaning them 1st thing) as you don't have to fuss with checking the condition of the gas tank.

After dropping & cleaning the pans disconnect the gas tank line from the vac. tank, remove the lid from the vac. tank then use it as a "mini-gas tank" while trying to start it.

If you've not gotten to the owner's manual stuff yet, one lever on the steering column is to advance the spark, the other a throttle adjustment (which one might consider an early "cruise control", LOL).

You should have a lever coming thru the dash which is the choke - the choke & spark advance/retard lever will be instrumental when starting the car, may require a little fiddling/trial & error.

Good luck with your new project!!!!

Unknown

Thanks everyone for all the advice I'm really looking forward with this project

Jon B

Pete (Oldhudsons) makes a good point about disconnecting the gas tank line to the vacuum tank. If this car has been sitting THAT long, not only is the gasoline "bad", but the tank may be full of crap!



Assuming you don't want to get immediately involved in a major gas tank removal and restoration (which may involve the lines from the tank as well) -- and that you ARE interested in just getting this thing going and having fun with it -- may I suggest you get a good portable gas tank (like, from a boat), put in on the front floor, and run a hose from it, to the vacuum tank? This will assure your engine of good gasoline for more than a minute or two, so you can actually drive the car.



Make darned sure that all these temporary connections are good, and not leaking, of course!



If you try and pull gasoline from the tank, you are going to start pulling all sorts of undesirable stuff through the lines. This means that 1) the car won't run, for sure, 2) you may be damaging something or at the very least clogging all sorts of things up in the lines / vacuum tank / carburetor, and 3) making it very hard to pinpoint where any troubles actually exist, should the car not start. (At least, with a guaranteed supply of fresh gasoline, you'll know that any starting problems lie in the ignition system or in the area between the vacuum tank inlet and the engine.)



Always listen to Pete! He's owned 1929-era Hudsons for almost fifty years!

Unknown

your right Jon you wouldn"t believe how much crap in the bottom of the oil pan. I have never seen so much, But I'm enjoying this it's something different compare to the other cars I have restore.

Geoff

There is no spark advance on the '31 Essex. this is automatic in the distirbutor. The two levers you have on the wheel centre will be the light switch and the hand throttle. When you replace the sump, be sure to fill the upper trays with oil before you bolt the sump up, otherwise you will likely burn out the bearings. You will need to fill the vacuum tank with fuel, and see if the carburettor doesn't leak it out after all these years. Check the spark, pull the choke out and fire it up (hopefully!). Good luck

Geoff.

[Deleted User]

Hi! 98,When i got my 28 Roadster all these guys in the Hudson club helped me loads. I couldn't have brought my car to life without them, especially Geoff. I'm not sure if your gas tank has one but, mine has a drain plug. Removing my tank meant dismantling more parts than I wanted so I first tried this, (if you have a plug). Put a drain pan under the plug and pour 2 gals' of kerosene in,(tapping it while someone pours will loosen and move a lot of particles to the opening). Aside from removing the tank altogether, this is a good method to get rid of a lot of the grit,(if it's not to far gone). Do this a few times until you see less and less come out. Next, remove the fuel line from the vacuum tank going to the tank and either use compressed air or blow into the line and listen through the filler tube for air,if so, them your line is clear but, remember not necessarily sealed tight. If your vacuum tank doesn't suck the gas up properly and you are unable to repair it, the installation of a 6 volt electric fuel pump between the tank line and the vacuum tank will at least let you drive the car. Wiring a momentary contact pushbutton swith to the pump will allow you to top of the vac tank as you drive. Fill it to start(the top of the tank has a air bleeder.When a little gas squirts out it's full). After about 5- 10 minutes of driving press the button for a good minute at a time every5-10 minutes and you're good to go. When you drop the oil pan look up into the engine. A healthy engine will have a thin layer of carbon evenly distributed inside.This is good and should be left alone. Check the cylider walls. No rust or marks means your chances of the motor running well are good. Be prepared for possibly drilling out a couple pan bolts! The filter screen may have spits in it you can either solder them or sew them will copper wire. Hope this helps, if I think of anything else important I'll chime in again.Bud































































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essexcoupe3131

Hi 98truck, welcome to to 31 club as you will find out there isnt lots of these around, what about posting some pics, is it a sedan 2-4 dpoor or a coupe,or the altimate is a boattail

you will appreciate having a full steel body unlike alot of the other x brands

lots of luck with the start up



Mike