need help removing rear drums from 47

Unknown

I know it's been talked about before, and I have read some previous postings, but I would like to check with the forum and the wealth of knowledge you folks have ...



I have a (new to me) 47. I am trying to get the rear drums off. WOW. I took off the castle nut/pin etc and made sure the drum spun. I tried using flame to heat up the drum, the usual hammer thing, and am now trying a puller. I have the puller centre point (it's bolt style, so exerts pressure by screwing into the puller) set up on the spindle and three wheel bolts to hold the other stirrup thing to the drum. It is super tight but not budging.



Before I turn it one more time and break either the puller or pull the bolts from the drum, I have to know -- am I missing something?



Thanks for any help/advice.

[Deleted User]

Geoff, NO you are not missing a thing. Wack that dogbone long enough and the drum will pop off. HOWEVER, before you use your enegry up on the wacking part , make sure your emergency brake is off. Then... wack away. The sound you will hear is a POP. Mission accomplished.

Unknown

Hudzilla wrote:

Geoff, NO you are not missing a thing. Wack that dogbone long enough and the drum will pop off. HOWEVER, before you use your enegry up on the wacking part , make sure your emergency brake is off. Then... wack away. The sound you will hear is a POP. Mission accomplished.

Okay. Thanks. Man, this is a job and a half. I wish I had a Hudson mechanic near me. That said, once done the next time will be easier. Thanks.

jjbubaboy

Hey Geoff,

If they are like my 36 you will want to keep the castle nut just screwed on the end so when they 'pop' you arent getting your bell rung by the drum!:D

T Jeff

Unknown

jjbubaboy wrote:

Hey Geoff,

If they are like my 36 you will want to keep the castle nut just screwed on the end so when they 'pop' you arent getting your bell rung by the drum!:D

T Jeff

Good advice. I appreciate any wisdom which will help me save what few I brain cells I have left. Thanks.

[Deleted User]

Canadian Hud wrote:

I know it's been talked about before, and I have read some previous postings, but I would like to check with the forum and the wealth of knowledge you folks have ...



I have a (new to me) 47. I am trying to get the rear drums off. WOW. I took off the castle nut/pin etc and made sure the drum spun. I tried using flame to heat up the drum, the usual hammer thing, and am now trying a puller. I have the puller centre point (it's bolt style, so exerts pressure by screwing into the puller) set up on the spindle and three wheel bolts to hold the other stirrup thing to the drum. It is super tight but not budging.



Before I turn it one more time and break either the puller or pull the bolts from the drum, I have to know -- am I missing something?



Thanks for any help/advice.

Back the brake star wheel all the way off. then remove the nut and flat washer, then put the nut back on so that it is flush with the end of the axle. Now install your puller and make sure the 3 bolts are up tight and centered with the axle. Now back off the screw bolt and install a 1/4 inch of steel between it and the axle, then hammer the cross bow good and tight but never hit the straight end as you can break the block that keeps the axles apart. If you get it good and tight, let it set and come back later and hammer the cross bow some more. It will come off with a loud bang. Walt.

barrysweet52

The first time is the hardest because its a new experience. If you use heat you may have to replace the seals, but then you probably were going to do that anyway. If you heat the tapered section of the drum, with the puller on giving it some tension it usually pops off. Not sure if you are using a dogbone puller or not. I made my own puller that uses 5 bolts in all 5 threaded holes. As Walt said, you can tighten it, then come back later and tighten it again. In between visits or overnight they can pop off themselves. I have seen people loosen the axle nut and drive around the block but dont recommend it. I used an anti sieze compound like coppercote when I reassembled. The tapered axle bearings are hard to find. There was a previous thread re this. Now would be a good time to remove them, clean and regrease them. Regards, Barry

Aaron D. IL

I removed my with a bolt-on wheel puller, left the nut on the end of the shaft as indicated and (I think) put a ratchet socket over the end. Then started torqueing it slow with a cheater bar until there was enough pressure on it to be worried about. Then I squirted around it with penetrating oil like blaster or liquid wrench or something and after a few moments BANG!!! she popped loose.

Jon B

Paul's illustrated drum-removal instructional is still there http://hudsonpix.multiply.com/photos/album/52/REAR_WHEEL_PULLER . The Hudson photo albums were merely transferred to a new site, when MSN pulled the plug: http://hudsonpix.multiply.com/

Unknown

Jon B wrote:

Paul's illustrated drum-removal instructional is still there http://hudsonpix.multiply.com/photos/album/52/REAR_WHEEL_PULLER . The Hudson photo albums were merely transferred to a new site, when MSN pulled the plug: http://hudsonpix.multiply.com/

Thanks very much.



I am going to have to get a dog-bone puller. Presently have another type (using torque bar) but even with 140 lbs pressure, not budging.



Waiting for the pop ....

Jon B

When you get the puller's torque cranked up really tightly, try going around the perimeter of the drum with a hammer, tapping, to set up some vibration. Don't whale on it, just enough to help pop it loose eventually.

[Deleted User]

Some mechanics apply penetrating oil, draw the puller tight, and "plink" it with a light hammer. His theory was that the light hammer produced a different vibration frequency, which caused the drum to break loose.

RL Chilton

billn34 wrote:

Some mechanics apply penetrating oil, draw the puller tight, and "plink" it with a light hammer. His theory was that the light hammer produced a different vibration frequency, which caused the drum to break loose.

Penetrating oil works quite well, actually, along with the pressure and the light tapping from behind. Downside to using penetrating oil, if you plan on re-using shoes, the oil will often saturate the linings making them un-useable.

[Deleted User]

Canadian Hud wrote:

I know it's been talked about before, and I have read some previous postings, but I would like to check with the forum and the wealth of knowledge you folks have ...



I have a (new to me) 47. I am trying to get the rear drums off. WOW. I took off the castle nut/pin etc and made sure the drum spun. I tried using flame to heat up the drum, the usual hammer thing, and am now trying a puller. I have the puller centre point (it's bolt style, so exerts pressure by screwing into the puller) set up on the spindle and three wheel bolts to hold the other stirrup thing to the drum. It is super tight but not budging.



Before I turn it one more time and break either the puller or pull the bolts from the drum, I have to know -- am I missing something?



Thanks for any help/advice.

Do not use a torch to heat the hub because if you have a puller on the hub you can ruin the hub. Someone may stop you to tell you, you have a back wheel not running true. Just keep hammering the cross bow and it will let go. Just make sure all 3 bolt are tight. Walt.

Unknown

walt's garage-53 wrote:

Do not use a torch to heat the hub because if you have a puller on the hub you can ruin the hub. Someone may stop you to tell you, you have a back wheel not running true. Just keep hammering the cross bow and it will let go. Just make sure all 3 bolt are tight. Walt.

Borrowed a dog bone puller and both drums came off easily. It's all in the puller, I guess. Now rebuilding wheel cyls -- only one working freely. Man, was that a hard car to stop! Should be right by the weekend. Thanks to all.