dry clutch throw-out bearing

Unknown

I'm changing my 37 terraplane coupe wet clutch to a dry and am looking for a throw-out bearing. Does anyone have Ron Fellows phone number? I would appreciate that number or some ideas. I have exhausted all resources here in Tulsa Oklahoma. Thanks

PAULARGETYPE

He's in the roster

Clutchguy

airmec13 wrote:

I'm changing my 37 terraplane coupe wet clutch to a dry and am looking for a throw-out bearing. Does anyone have Ron Fellows phone number? I would appreciate that number or some ideas. I have exhausted all resources here in Tulsa Oklahoma. Thanks

Have you checked this all out?. Doing this is like re-inventing the wheel? It doesn't work without a tremendous amount of re-engineering. May I ask why you are wanting to change the factory cork clutch system?

Unknown

I've been driving this coupe for some time and keeping oil in the clutch has just been a pain. I've had it off three times and sealed the heck out of it and have had no luck. I already have the clutch plate and pressure plate. All I need is the sealed throw-out bearing. The inside and out side diameter are different than all throw out bearing I've looked at. I know your saying "there is a reason for the leak". I credit it to a very thin oil with a large sealing surface. So any help with the throw-out bearing would be appreciated

Clutchguy

Airmec13, it sounds like you need to start with known Good parts or remanufactured parts. Something is wrong for it to leak. The dry system WILL NOT Work very long and you will be doing it again-which doesn't make much sense to me. I should take a picture of the pile "WET" Hudson clutch parts that have been supposedly converted to a dry clutch-type system. My testimony to this-?? If it really worked,why would I have a pile of them?.

Unknown

Is this Ron Fellows? Why do you say a dry clutch won't work? They moved away from wet clutchs right after the great flood. The pressure plate will hold up. The clutch plate was done very nicely. Is there a problem with the flywheel? I'm certainly no expert on this subject and I will bow to experience. But I've honestly put a great effort in keeping the car original. But frustrations has taken the day. FYI I have put two different pressure plates in. So I would like to try this dry one if i could find a throw-out bearing. I do understand what your saying.

Geoff

I can only back up what clutch guy is saying. If you are attempting to use the original pressure plate and flywheel with a dry plate, you are heading for trouble. The spring pressures are all wrong, and the steel flywheel is too light.

Geoff.

[Deleted User]

I was once such a dry clutch proponent. Scheming ways to accomplish the task and keep it all original looking. When I first took one apart you'd never have convinced me of its tenacity, much like yourself. Then I started noticing some things that complicate its replacement with a dry disk.



The original flywheel is too thin to dissipate the heat of a dry clutch arrangement. Part of the magic of that light, thin flywheel is the cooling effect of the Hudsonite. The bellhousing is really short and doesn't lend itself to a type of pressure plate sufficient to provide a good clamping force. If going dry, go all the way and convert everything from the block back with an adapted bellhousing from a common dry clutched make with a sufficient flywheel. Trying to convert the existing arrangement will do nothing but ruin good original parts somebody else may need. Not to mention that you'll ultimately spend more money on a conversion than a well setup original wet type.



Time and consideration did get the best of me and I gave the Hudson wet clutch a try. You're wrong about the wet clutch going out soon after the flood, they're still in many heavy machinery applications where frequent clutching is common. Heavy forklifts, agricultural tractors (I have a '98 JD with a WET CLUTCH). Fact is , they are a premium piece of artillery in the mechanical world - even now. Dry clutches were a cost cutting thing, nothing to do with quality at all. The automakers could manufacture dry clutches faster with much wider tolerances, and get away with it.



What really convinced me was two twisted input shafts in my '49 Super Six. I don't think the wet clutch had a problem holding, or I'd have a pile of wet clutch parts instead of transmissions.



My advice would be to make peace with Doug and Ron, learn how to properly install a Hudson clutch with good components - and you'll never have that problem again. Change your fluid regularly - its the finest clutch I've ever stepped on for a road vehicle. Silky smooth with a tiger grip.



May not be what you wanted to hear, but I've been down your road and found my own folly.



Mark



If you fix your wet clutch right once, you won't have that job to do again.

Unknown

I didn't realize I was at war with anybody to have to make peace. I used the correct thickness gasket, put in a new throw-out bearing seal, torqued the pressure plate bolts to recomended torque. Cleaned both the flywheel and pressure plate mating surface. The only thing I didn't do is mill the surface of each. It is apears that everybody is dead set on wet clutches. So Ron if you read this can I get your phone number to order up a cork clutch plate as mine has been converted to dry. Thanks for the input all.

Clutchguy

My number is 317-398-4163. I am in Shelbyville,Indiana. Call me and we"ll see if we can resolve your concerns. DrD

Clutchguy

Another thought??. Did you seal the flywheel to the crankshaft?. This must be done and if you don't,it will leak fluid everytime you start it up. This is usually evident when you see oil on the engine side of the flywheel. It will sling the fluid out that is captured behind the pilot bearing. Each time you shut the engine off,fluid runs behind the pilot bearing, Just a thought.?/

Jon B

Airmec, we're not at war here, we just like spirited discussions! And you'll find a lot of people who'll give a spirited defense of the wet clutch (as you've seen!). I don't think people meant to sound aggressive. I'm sure if you encountered them at a Hudson meet, they'd offer to pop a can of beer with you (but they'd still argue for the wet clutch, LOL!). We're a fairly harmless bunch.



Apparently some folks have either been down the dry clutch route, or have seen others go down that route, and they merely wanted to save you from a life of misery! Personally, I've owned a '37 since 1971 and (except for one instance when a bum rebuilt clutch was installed) I have had no problem with the wet clutch. And, to be honest, I don't recall the last time I changed my clutch oil but it was several years ago!



Doug (that was "Doctor" Doug, the clutchman--not Ron Fellows--offering his advice from Shelbyville) has rebuilt a whole lot of clutches in his life and has good ideas.

Unknown

airmec13 wrote:

I didn't realize I was at war with anybody to have to make peace. I used the correct thickness gasket, put in a new throw-out bearing seal, torqued the pressure plate bolts to recomended torque. Cleaned both the flywheel and pressure plate mating surface. The only thing I didn't do is mill the surface of each. It is apears that everybody is dead set on wet clutches. So Ron if you read this can I get your phone number to order up a cork clutch plate as mine has been converted to dry. Thanks for the input all.

I can not help with the 37 clutch, but the phone number for Ron Fellows is located on this website... http://www.hudsonrestoration1948-54.com/





Ron Fellows P.O. Box 453 Canutillo, Texas 79835 (915-877-9025)



also



Doug Wildrick Restoration

1459 E.CR 425N

Shelbyville,In. 46176

New shop Ph.# 317-398-4163

Cell.# 317-847-1720

New Email- drdoug96@comcast.net





Good luck with getting your clutch problems sorted out.... :(:mad::)

junkcarfann

Just for info, all motorcycles use a wet clutch. (or almost all, maybe there are a few that don't).

Geoff

I too, apologise if I sounded the least bit agressive, but I have had to undo the damage that has been done to cars that have been "improved" by converting to dry clutch, so was attempting to warn of the consequences.

good luck,

Geoff.

Huddy42

I wonder if the leak in this car is due to the seal being damaged when installing the gear box, would love a dollar for each time I've seen or heard of that happening. Have installed many boxes during my time with Hudson and NEVER had one leak, just a silky smooth operation if adjusted properly and every thing done right, on the other hand, heard of guys trying the dry clutch, never heard of one that was perfected.