Slow cranking jet

[Deleted User]

I have asked this before, Why does my Jet crank so slow?? I have changed the starter, it has a new regulator, the cables are good, I think the timming is ok, I have changed the battery, but it still cranks slow! I know it is 6 volt and they crank kind of slow any way, but thus thing turns over about once every decade! It starts out very slow, but sometimes after it cranks slow it will turn over faster a few times then start. But this whole process takes about a minute or two. Could the distributor be off a tooth and cause this??? HELP!:(



Thanks, Barry Smedley

53' Super Jet

and a bunch of Crosley's

junkcarfann

The speed of the cranking is unrelated to the distributor, unless your timing is way too advanced, in which case the engine will kick back as you try to start it, or if the timing is completely wrong, it will randomly kick back, backfire thru the carburetor, etc.



However, if the car runs ok once started, the distributor is not the problem.



I suggest you take the starter off and bring it to a shop that specializes with starters, and have them check it out. It is very possible to have two bad starters in a row, especially if you are using old used starters.



If the starter checks out ok, and you have correct voltage and a good hot battery, you likely have a bad ground, and need to thoroughly clean your cables and the places where the ground cables attach.



Also, make sure you are not using 12 volt cables, as they do not have the capacity for 6 volts to pass thru. (I know, it does not make sense, but that is what they tell me).

53jetman

Concerning the cables and ground.. Make sure you are using at least a 00 guage cable from your battery to solenoid (?) and then on to the starter. Also, make sure your ground is clean from the battery to the engine block, and also the one under the car from the right rear corner of the block to the frame (beside the transmission), My '53 Super Jet turns over almost as well as if it had a 12v battery - most people are amazed at how well the 6v battery turns the engine over, and it usually starts immediately - even when cold!



Jerry

53jetman

Unknown

Barry , take that thing to PRP at New Salisbury , solinoid and all and have them check it . BUD

[Deleted User]

What size wire is the ground from th block too the frame, I don't think mine has one.





Thanks, barry

junkcarfann

Hudson part supplier Dave Kostansek has the correct cable for that application.

53jetman

hoosiercrosley wrote: »

What size wire is the ground from th block too the frame, I don't think mine has one.



The ground Strap at the bottom right side of the engine should be the same type used on the battery to engine block, except shorter. These are woven steel, and must be kept clean as well as the area where they mount - should make sure you are getting a good connection.



Jerry

53jetman

coverton

Another trick is to disconnect the starter solenoid wire to starter,twist the hell out of it to break up any internal corrosion, make sure all ground and hot connections are squekie clean-get one of those wire tooth brushes from harbor frt for this task and reassemble.no-ox wire dressing helps too

I do this at the CC often and have never seen a clean connection on an old car and do remember ohm's law/s/

Unknown

Barry, Does that car have a remote solenoid or mounted to the starter ? I think I've got a couple remotes in the shop we could put on to see if ot's the problem , the contacts in them get burned and sometimes cause low voltage , which is most likely the problem if sometimes cranks good , other times bad . It doesn't contact the washer shaped contact point each time you start it .

RonS

You don't have a Green wheel kill switch on the batt do you? They are a current bottleneck , Max current is 250 amps on 'em. Just about what the Hudson starter will draw.

SuperDave

RonS wrote:

You don't have a Green wheel kill switch on the batt do you? They are a current bottleneck , Max current is 250 amps on 'em. Just about what the Hudson starter will draw.

I have had two of those junk disconnects go bad. One on a 54 308 and the other on my engine test stand. Now I know why they were sold in pairs..so they would last twice as long.. LOL:eek:

[Deleted User]

Thanks for all the help guys! I got'er fixed, the cable from the battery to the seloniod was burned almost in two, I didn't notice it before because it was on the bottom side, Took the cable off of my parts car and cleaned it up, Now it starts like it has 12 volts!;) Thanks again!!:D







Barry Smedley

53' Super Jet

and a bunch of Crosley's

Jon B

The problem seems to lie in the small diameter of the threaded stud that actually makes the contact. It passes through one flat plate and (when tightened down) bottoms out on the one below it. But all that current is making contact through a threaded stud that's less than 1/4" in diameter!



At first I simply removed the green-knob cut-off, and I'd attach and detach the hot cable to the battery each time I drove the car. That ended up scratching and scarring the battery terminal. So, I got out my old green-knob switch, removed the knob portion, and then pried the upper and lower plates apart (discarding the plastic insulator that separates them.



Now, I have a two-piece cutoff switch. When I place the two plates together (one is connected to the (-) batt. terminal, the other to the hot cable), there is a large area of metal that conducts the terminal, not that puny little screw. One of the plates is threaded, so I screw the "green knob" through the top plate and into the bottom plate, thus clamping them face to face.



Works like a charm. It takes all of about 10 seconds to attach and I don't need a wrench (as I would if I were to fasten the battery cable clamp to the battery terminal.

RonS

Or you can buy from JC Whitney a knife style switch for about$30. The carry 500amps.

SuperDave

I have a battery disconnect switch like they use on stock cars. Sold by Summit and many other race suppliers. It's mounted inside the '49 grille directly in front of the battery and outa sight. I don't have to open the hood either! I have only seen one of these switches fail in the last 20 or so years. You guessed it..just before the feature race on Friday night on the #49 Monte Carlo.! Darn!!..The one on the '49 Hudson must be 34 years old and still working fine.