Need a head to replace a cracked one...

[Deleted User]

I took my 1941 on what I thought would be a nice drive (about 55 miles one way) to visit with some car guys meeting over at Bob Parks' place...



Unfortunately the trip ended when the Hudson unexpectedly started smoking and I had to pull over. At first I thought it might be the clutch (from the smell), maybe the fluid had leaked out or something, but as I slowed down to look for a suitable place to pull over, the engine made a pop and really started smoking. It sounded like a miss almost like I blew out a spark plug.



Anyway to make a long story short --- I popped the hood (after I turned of the ignition) and the engine was still running (dieseling) so I disconnected the ground and put her in gear to get it to shut down. Once the smoke cleared it was obvious that I had a cracked head probably the result of overheating. There was little warning and after things cooled down I checked the radiator and it was low on coolant - nearly empty I'm sure.



So the old girl got a flatbed ride home...



I was able to get the motor to turn over... didn't try to start it back at my shop. Dropped the oil pan, some sludge in bottom but not too bad. The crankcase looked good, didn't see any evidence of damage... of course bearings aren't visible so who knows what damage may be there. Will start pulling the head this week.



The motor is either a 175 or 212 the only sixes offered that year. How can I tell which one I have and/or does it matter when it comes to the head.



The car is a Model 10P Deluxe and according to some literature I've read the 10P had more features than the 10T... but that doesn't necessarily mean it had the larger engine. Maybe someone can help ID it. The serial number is 1056453...



I'm now in need of a head and some suggestions ...



I haven't isolated the reason(s) she overheated... what should I be looking for that may be unique to Hudsons? I will check the water pump, thermostat, radiator etc. but need to know what else should be looked at.



I'm prepared to bolt on a new head and try to get her running again... what precautions should I take if any? Other than checking the deck and new head to make sure they're straight is there anything else I should check?



BTW, has anyone else had this happen to them?



I will be at the meet at Pigeon Forge next week (Friday afternoon and all day Saturday). If any you parts / swap meet types have a good head, and plan on attending the PF meet please bring me one to buy I'd appreciate it. I'm also looking for a rebuilt or good working used water pump.



I will bring the head and water pump with me if cores are required.



Thanks in advance for your help.



Craig



One last question... a previous owners mounted what appears to be a transmission cooler in front of the radiator plumbed to the heater hose connections (water pump and fitting in head). My thoughts are that any benefit would be minimized because it is actually restricting air flow to the radiator. To me it looks funky and since I don't have a heater I'd like to get rid of the hoses running to a non stock component. Thoughts anyone?

[Deleted User]

When you pull that head look for a cracked exhaust valve seat.

[Deleted User]

Craig, the compression ratio 7.25 to 1 stamped on the head indicates you do in fact have the smaller engine. That head was used to increase the power of the de-stroked 175 C.I.D. YOu can use a standard head if you can't find a like unit, but you will notice a power loss. Hope this helps.



Allan

Jon B

Did the temperature gauge give no warning of the impending disaster? This sounds scary!



The thermostat on my '37 jammed in the closed position once (hundreds of miles from home), causing the radiator to regurgitate all its water. Mercifully, a radiator shop guy recognized the problem and removed the offending thermostat, and the car was able to continue on its way, none the worse for wear. I'm sorry you didn't have such a benign outcome.

Richard E.

Your crack looks pretty obvious! If that is the only place that it is cracked, have it welded. If it is cracked in a combustion chamber, welding isn't recommended. YOu might also just consider replacing your engine with the "big port" 212 cu engine. These were made '37 - '47 and it is a better engine than the one that you have. It should bolt in, no problemo!

[Deleted User]

Jon B wrote:

Did the temperature gauge give no warning of the impending disaster? This sounds scary!



The thermostat on my '37 jammed in the closed position once (hundreds of miles from home), causing the radiator to regurgitate all its water. Mercifully, a radiator shop guy recognized the problem and removed the offending thermostat, and the car was able to continue on its way, none the worse for wear. I'm sorry you didn't have such a benign outcome.

It happened so quickly that I didn't even glance at the temp gauge (factory gauge that was working... who knows how accurate). I have a set of after market (under the dash) gauges sitting on my work bench... no good there.

[Deleted User]

Richard E. wrote:

Your crack looks pretty obvious! If that is the only place that it is cracked, have it welded. If it is cracked in a combustion chamber, welding isn't recommended. YOu might also just consider replacing your engine with the "big port" 212 cu engine. These were made '37 - '47 and it is a better engine than the one that you have. It should bolt in, no problemo!

I guess I should be on the lookout for a 212...



Thanks

[Deleted User]

Does your engine have one breather tube or two? - The breather tube(s) come out of the valve cover(s) on the right side of the engine below the intake/exhaust, pointing straight downward toward the ground, usually terminating at the level of the oilpan.

Typically, 175 cu in engines have one, in the rear valve cover; 212 cu in engines have two - one in each valve cover.

From discussions, this is not an absolute, as many engines have been worked-on and the additional/second breather either installed, or removed...

One tube... and I guess the 7.25 : 1 comp ratio also indicates a 175...

[Deleted User]

aminard wrote:

Craig, the compression ratio 7.25 to 1 stamped on the head indicates you do in fact have the smaller engine. That head was used to increase the power of the de-stroked 175 C.I.D. YOu can use a standard head if you can't find a like unit, but you will notice a power loss. Hope this helps.



Allan

Thanks... hopefully I can get her running with a new head!

[Deleted User]

Jon B wrote:

Did the temperature gauge give no warning of the impending disaster? This sounds scary!



The thermostat on my '37 jammed in the closed position once (hundreds of miles from home), causing the radiator to regurgitate all its water. Mercifully, a radiator shop guy recognized the problem and removed the offending thermostat, and the car was able to continue on its way, none the worse for wear. I'm sorry you didn't have such a benign outcome.

from above: "It happened so quickly that I didn't even glance at the temp gauge (factory gauge that was working... who knows how accurate). I have a set of after market (under the dash) gauges sitting on my work bench... no good there."

[Deleted User]

51hornetA wrote:

When you pull that head look for a cracked exhaust valve seat.

Makes sense... will do, thanks!

bellbigdawg

got a real nice running 212 engine and transmission from a 41 hudson. clutch is new, engine was well taken care of by a hudson dealer here that bought it for himself in 1941. looks almost new! it's for sale if you need one. it has never been stored outside, in heated garage last so many years. Im in Minnesota.