Sway Bar Bushings and links.

Roger Harmon

Guys,



I'm going to order new bushings and link ends for my Wasp. The urethane ones I have used in the past are noisey. Who has used the urethane ones available for step-downs? Do they squeak? Are there poly-graphite bushings available for short-wheelbase step-downs? How about the panhard bar at the rear; what's available for them? Thanks for your input.



R/ Roger.

nick s

Roger, I have the urethane end links in my hornet with no noise issues. I have new urethane bushings as well but haven't installed them yet.

RL Chilton

Nick-

Where did you get those? I couldn't locate a source for rubber sway bar bushings like the originals, so I turned mine on the lathe.

Was also wondering about panhard bar bushings, too. I need a set or source if those are available.

[Deleted User]

Try K-GAP, they have the complete unit. Walt.

[Deleted User]

Russell, Roger, I use the urethane bushings on my Wasp. Got the bushings and a new set of proper length shafts at PEP Boys. Took the originals in to match them up. As said in previous post the Panhard rubber bushings are available from KGap.

[Deleted User]

When you mount the urethane bushings rub a little grease on them stops them squeaking.

J Spencer

Go to local auto parts store, 1978 to 1985/86 Chevy Malibu, Monte Carlo, Buick Regal are the correct length, available with stock type or heavy duty(urethane ) bushings and less money than buying from performance supplers.



Jim Spencer

lsfirth

RL Chilton wrote:

Nick-



Where did you get those? I couldn't locate a source for rubber sway bar bushings like the originals, so I turned mine on the lathe.



Was also wondering about panhard bar bushings, too. I need a set or source if those are available.

Hi Russell,



You should've had a pair of sway bar bushings show up in your mail box :-)

I suppose they were too far gone though.



Lee

RL Chilton

lsfirth wrote:

Hi Russell,

You should've had a pair of sway bar bushings show up in your mail box :-)
I suppose they were too far gone though.

Lee

They were too far gone. That's why I turned a new set.

nick s

Energy suspension 9.5123G is what I have for bushings and I think 9.8119G for the end links. The metal parts are cad plated but a little black paint and they'll blend in. Ordering the "G" in the number will get you black bushings where autozone and the like will strock the red which look out of place in a restoration.

[Deleted User]

I haven't checked lately but Rock Auto did have the bushings for front and rear stabilizer bars ,
Roger

Lee ODell

From more than thity years in the suspension repair business may I make a suggestion and I'll tell you my reasoning. If you choose to use harder bushings, I suggest tighten the link nut just enough for a snug bushing fit. This allows the link to tilt sideway on turns. Also, putting grease on the bushings will quiet the squeaks. If not using self locking nuts, double nut. (Double nut - tighten two nuts against each other).

Years ago, when hard plastic and urethane bushing became available with the benefit of improving body roll, I began having to replace a great number of broken sway bar links. Broken links was very rare with rubber bushings.

The links not only move up and down they also tilts sideways. As the cars body rolls in the turns the rubber bushing allowed the sway bar links to tilt as well as move up and down.
The harder bushings were preventing the tilt movement of the link. This put stress on the weakes part of the link, the threads. Usually where the theaded part meets the link body. The cars body roll was bending the treaded part of the link and work hardening and eventully the link would crack and brake.

As an illustration, immagine clamping the threaded part of the sway bar link in the jaws of a vice, slide a pipe over the link and begin pushing the pipe hard one way then the other, back and forth. Eventually the threads will bend enough times that the link will crack and break. This is happening every time the car makes a turn. Good reason for not over tightening bushings.

If the link is not perpendicular to the bushings, sway bar and control arm, the bending stresses on the link will be greater, all the more reason not to over tighten hard bushings. Sometime the sway bar can be heated, bent and aircooled to help vertical attitude of link.

Also, some sway bar link kits come with larger diameter links that reduce chance of breakage.

Just a thought. As little as most hudsons are driven there will probably never be a problem.
My experiences were with daily drivers. But I have seen some that broke a week after owner installed hard bushing. I believe because of overtighening from observing the squeshed bushings on other link that had not broken.

Lee O'Dell

[Deleted User]

That's what happens when you re-engineer something . You risk creating a new issue . All those items were designed to work together. Throwing modern material into the mix sounds like a good idea I agree. We should not be surprised however if a problem like Lee points out comes up. The Hudson designers weren't dummies,
Roger

Kdancy

Good info Lee---
I'll have to print and put in my manual- both Hudson and Studebaker---

RL Chilton

Roger-
Agreed!