52 Hornet Dash Stainless Strip

RL Chilton

Received the piece in the mail today (Tuesday). Will get the process ironed out and will post here when completed. Should be in the next couple of days.

Stay tuned!

RL Chilton

Well, the results are in! Suffice to say that while this is certainly not the only viable solution, it is the best I've found so far. Actually, I'm quite pleased and have every intention of using this process on my current restoration.

My plan was to document the process here on the forum. Skip to the end of my posts for final results. Otherwise, here is the procedure:



The photo above shows the sample on the bottom and the full-length piece on top. The full-length piece is how it is received, in a 'U'-shape. The sample has been stretched out to lay flat. This can be done very easily with just your hands.



Next, strip the fuzzies, or cat-whiskers off of the channel. A utility knife helps if you cut along the bottom edge of the outside bead before pulling it free. The outside pieces pull right off. For some reason, on the smaller sample, the middle section pulled off quite easily after getting the end started, but the full-length version was kind of a bear. The trick is to get underneath the glue layer, actually seperating the fuzzy sections glue from the rubber underneath. Do your best to remove only the fuzzies and leave the underlying rubber. You'll see why very shortly.

VERY IMPORTANT: The (ex)-fuzzy side will be the side that faces the front of the car!! The smoother side will be facing you when inside the car.





Next, flatten out the piece as much as possible.



Momma said I needed an action shot, it helps make my post more interesting, so here it is!

Continued in next post . . .

[Deleted User]

Russel the silhouette of you working is cool.

RL Chilton

Now, notice where your two folds were on the original 'U'. One represents your cut line, the other represents the line for the location holes, or 'V'-cuts.



The pencil shows the "fold" that will designate where our holes, or 'V'-cuts will go. See next picture.



Originally, I laid out a hole and a 'V'-cut on the short sample piece. My thinking was that a restorer in the process, would use a hole like on the left and the 'V'-cut could be utilized by someone doing this process on an all ready completed car.

Holes are possible, but if you notice on the far right of this sample strip, you can see that the underlying metal (that the rubber is adhered to) is slotted down the entire length of the strip. This is good in that it aids in helping to manipulate the piece into the curve that will match the curve of the dash, but makes it quite difficult to drill without a lot of handwork. 'V'cut is probably the way to go, for the sheer simplicity. Folks doing a "retro-fit" on a finished car can simply loosen the front half of the dash without actually removing it entirely, although this would make it difficult to glue the strip in place. More on that later.

Since this was done firstly on the sample piece, let's take a look at how she's going to look (the blue paper is strictly for contrast-purposes):





Now we're getting somewhere!!

RL Chilton

Take your piece and hold it up against the dash to mark the location of the speed-bolts attached to the front half of the dash. Should be 6 of them. Use chalk or other marker to locate. The piece itself is longer than the dash by a couple of inches, so DON'T cut it to length, yet. Let the ends hang past the dash for now.

Use a punch to locate the center of your hole. Notice that the center is actually at the bottom edge of the fold-line. Use a 5/16" drill bit to drill it out, and then, it's up to you whether or not you want to 'V'-cut it. I recommend it, but will be curious as to other's thoughts when the time comes.

The extra room around the holes will give you enough to wiggle the strip around to get it into place vertically.

Once your holes are in place, attach it to the dash, tighten up the front half to the back half.

Will look something like this:




At this point, it's not going to fit perfectly, because later it will be glued in place. Right now is the time to mark the ends. The location is right at the very end of the front-facing section of the dash. Right at the top corner. Simply mark the location, snip it off with tin-snips, and crimp it closed.

On final installation, I recommend using a good glue between the front half of the dash and the strip. 3M Weather-stripping glue comes to mind.

Also, you'll want to polish the strip before final installation. I recommend using a fob on a Dremel or drill, and not a bench grinder!! Some tripoli and then rouge will work well and bring this up to a nice highlight accent piece for your dash.



Not sure if these pictures do it justice, but I'm really pleased. This has been a subject of debate for several years now, and I, for one, am very glad we have a solution.

Anyone wanting larger pictures, please e-mail me. Also, any technical questions are welcome.

For orders, contact Vic Zamora, I know he will be happy to help set you up.

Thank you, Vic, very much!!

RL Chilton

One more thing I thought of, there are 6 "speed-bolts" on the back of the front half of the dash. I'm missing 3 of them. I'd like to have 3 more originals, if anyone can help. It's much easier than using a loose bolt and nut.

Unknown

RL Chilton wrote:

One more thing I thought of, there are 6 "speed-bolts" on the back of the front half of the dash. I'm missing 3 of them. I'd like to have 3 more originals, if anyone can help. It's much easier than using a loose bolt and nut.

Russ ,PM me your address ,and I'll send you some

[Deleted User]

Wow Russ,



It looks great. I wouldn't mind putting it on my '51 (even though it didn't come with it)

RL Chilton

Well, Dave, I don't think it would be a bad idea. You know how Hudson crossed over so many features from one year to another, even though they might not "belong". Who's to say that a late model '51 might have actually gotten this feature?

It's a nice accent piece, no doubt about it. I've always heavily been into "contrast". This helps break up the two halves nicely.

With your car, it would look especially good, I think, 'cause don't you have a blue dash and blue material behind it?

[Deleted User]

VicTor Z wrote:

Samples are in the MAIL!:p

VIC and Russell - Good on the both of you for taking the time to investigate and find a suitable substitue for a nearly impossible part to find.

Vic, with all of your connections in the FUZZIES area is it possible that you could find the same material with the bead attached ... prior to the bending process? Then the process of making the Hudson bead replacement part would be alot easier.

Thanks for your help to the Hudson community.

Your friend in Texas

VicTor Z

Hello Ken, I sent Russell four samples to look at, that was all I could see that might work. I will check with my supplier next week, to see if there is something else that would work. VicTor Zamora

[Deleted User]

RL Chilton wrote:

Well, Dave, I don't think it would be a bad idea. You know how Hudson crossed over so many features from one year to another, even though they might not "belong". Who's to say that a late model '51 might have actually gotten this feature?



It's a nice accent piece, no doubt about it. I've always heavily been into "contrast". This helps break up the two halves nicely.



With your car, it would look especially good, I think, 'cause don't you have a blue dash and blue material behind it?

Yup, blue on blue. Great memory you have! I may have to give Vic a call and get some.

Kdancy

what happened to the pictures?

VicTor Z