232s and a question

Aaron D. IL
Senior Contributor
I've got a pair of 232's I'm looking to sell. one 1951 block with overdrive and a hairline cracked head by the thermostat housing...block is fine.
The other a 1950 Block with overdrive. has run recently as yesterday, briefly. Valve's adjusted as per Walt M's instructions. I'm pulling it out of my car now.
Both blocks have low compression and need rings and both need new oil pumps. That's what I know for a fact. Both have run recently although they're tired. Im switching them out for a 262 I got. I have one Overdrive wiring harness to go with. $300 each or $500 for the pair. YOU PICK UP or arrange for someone to pick them up for you. Package deal I'm not going to separate the Overdrives from the blocks. Giving Hudson folks first crack otherwise they go on Ebay at some point soon.
Now the question.... OIL FILTERS Use them on my 262 or don't ever use them. I've gotten mixed advice. ?????????
The other a 1950 Block with overdrive. has run recently as yesterday, briefly. Valve's adjusted as per Walt M's instructions. I'm pulling it out of my car now.
Both blocks have low compression and need rings and both need new oil pumps. That's what I know for a fact. Both have run recently although they're tired. Im switching them out for a 262 I got. I have one Overdrive wiring harness to go with. $300 each or $500 for the pair. YOU PICK UP or arrange for someone to pick them up for you. Package deal I'm not going to separate the Overdrives from the blocks. Giving Hudson folks first crack otherwise they go on Ebay at some point soon.
Now the question.... OIL FILTERS Use them on my 262 or don't ever use them. I've gotten mixed advice. ?????????
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Comments
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I guess that it might depend on how much you plan to use the car. I have a 262
in My WASP, but I don't even put 2000 miles a year on it.
I just change the Oil every year and so far everything is fine.
I sure would NOT go to the trouble of adding an oil filter if the engine didn't come with one
TOM0 -
It does have on this 262 right now. Bypass type (obviously)0
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I've put 25,000 miles on my '50C6 without an oil filter, I do change the oil about every 5,000 miles and it runs fine. I have recently taken it out to rebuild as it had 94,000 miles on it and it was clean as a wistle inside.0
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I certainly respect everyone's responses for NOT going with an oil filter. I also try very hard not to question Hudson engineers, as they knew much more than I do. However, adding an oil filter is one of those things that does no harm and might just do some good. Win-win situation if you ask me. Besides, they look cool, especially the C3 filters.
There are others that have brought up the fact that the bolt-on types from the dealer (or aftermarket) are not full pressure systems and are simply by-pass filters, which is true. Again, I mention that some filtering is most likely better than none and does no harm in the process of the addition.
Growing up with cars other than Hudson, I still find it somewhat shocking that no oil filters were even employed. Additionally, it is even more astounding that hydramatics require no trannsmission cooler! Hard to argue with the super fine engineering put into our marque.
In the end, I think it's mostly just a matter of personal preference.0 -
My 36 Hudson 8 does not have an oil filter on it. I would like to see one that is period correct and if I like the way it looks I'll put one on. However, I went to a lot of effort to hide the wiring in the frame and right now everything looks so clean and simple I am not to excited to add something else to the engine compartment. Besides, I have been working like crazy to get it finished in time for the National.
I am new to the Hudson 8 family and have been told that it is necessary to pull the oil pan every 3,000 miles or so. If I am going to do that, an oil filter would become an added effort. If anyone has an 8 with an oil filter add a photo to the post so I can start the decision process.0 -
Unless a complete re-design of the oiling system is done...I would NOT add a filter to any splasher Hudson engine. At least, not the "period" type added by the factory and dealers. I admit, they LOOK cool, but.. That type of filter is placed in the line that feeds the rear main bearing. Just placing ANY restriction in the flow of oil to a bearing in a low pressure system, in my opinion would be counter productive. Changing oil more frequently seems a much more practical solution. With the modern oil formulas IE: multi viscosity.detergents...Should extend the engine life of these old splashers well beyond the original engineers expectations. Removing the pan of a nice well kept, clean spasher should not have to be done for many many thouseands of miles. Remember, the reason for cleaning the oil sump was based on poor fuels and poor oils by todays standards. JMHO..0
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Removing and cleaning the pan every 3000 miles seems excessive (I have an 8 as well) but for a pressure lube step-down I'd note that Hudson did provide plugs in the block to add a period oil filter. What are the odds that you are lessening the pressure or starving the engine with the bypass? Assuming it is otherwise clean inside? I'm just going to be doing regular and sometimes highway driving with this car so I'm not straining my 262 to the limits with any frequency.0
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Browniepetersen wrote:
I am new to the Hudson 8 family and have been told that it is necessary to pull the oil pan every 3,000 miles or so. If I am going to do that, an oil filter would become an added effort. If anyone has an 8 with an oil filter add a photo to the post so I can start the decision process.
Brownie | I have been around Hudsons all my life, and have never heard that the pan should be removed and sump cleaned every 3,000 miles on a well maintained engine. My father's dealership in a small Ohio town enjoyed six of the seven rural mail carriers using Hudson Eights for many thousands of miles (some over 100,000 miles) before and after WWII and I don't remember of any of those engines having been overhauled, or the pan removed for cleaning. All the cars were serviced regularly in our shop, and used Valvoline Oil exclusively with a 16 oz shot of Marvel Mystery Oil.0 -
RANDY MASS told me , DON'T DO IT , NOT ANY TYPE , you take a high risk of knocking the bearing out and not getting enough oil to the timeing gears . I gotta respect what he says as fact . BUD0
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37 Terraplane#2 wrote:RANDY MASS told me , DON'T DO IT , NOT ANY TYPE , you take a high risk of knocking the bearing out and not getting enough oil to the timeing gears . I gotta respect what he says as fact . BUD
Yeah this is what Gus Souza told me as well. What Randy and Gus share in common though is that they race and push engines to the limits. So Under such operating conditions I wonder if that advice still applies?????0 -
WE were talking about my daily driver, no mods and not pushed .---BUD0
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Here are 2 photos of an oil filter mounted on my recently arrived Super 8, the mounting brackets look like an aftermarket one size fits all system.
Like some other posters I have my doubts about the efficacy and even the wisdom of fitting an oil filter to a low pressure oiling system such as the Hudson splashers.
Looking at the oil pump plumbing on this engine it all seems stock, so whatever connections were made to the filter have been got rid of at some time in the past, but this is how I reckon it was supposed to work.
There is a fitting with 2 connections on the input side of the filter. Oil from the pump would have gone in one connection and straight back out the other to the big end troughs. Excess oil, if there can be such a thing in a low pressure system, would have accumulated in the filter. The output, after low pressure and/or gravity filtering drains from the base of the canister back into the sump via a fitting in the filler tube boss. You can only imagine that the volume of the filtered throughput would be absolutely minimal.
The engine oiling system will keep working as long as there is enough restriction in the filter element to ensure most of the oil from the pump goes straight back to the big end troughs. Not having a filter element in the canister would be fatal of course.
One drawback in the scheme is that whenever the engine stops, the oil filter is going to drain, and on start up the initial output from the oil pump will have to refill the filter before oil starts flowing to the big end troughs.0 -
37 Terraplane#2 wrote:WE were talking about my daily driver, no mods and not pushed .---BUD
Stepdown 6's not splashers right ??????0 -
Here is my Ebay listing on those 232's for anyone interested....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130406504388&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1951-Hudson-Pacemaker-Engine-and-Overdrive-Transmission-/130406508434?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e5cd56792
So anyone else have any advice on using a by-pass oil filter on a step-down 262 ??????? Do or Don't ???0 -
The "drop the pan every 3,000 miles" is a bit of overkill even compared to the original factory recommendations. They said do it annually, as I recall, and of course it was mainly to clean out any accumulation of crud in the upper pan. With modern detergent oils I think this is a non-problem. In recent years when I've had occasion to drop a splasher pan, the upper pan's been clean as a whistle. Long time members who were at the Salt Lake National in '97, remember when Dick Z's (now my) Hornet ragtop arrived on a flatbed due to rod bearing failure on the way there? Cause: broken line to or from the oil filter. My conclusion (stepdown or otherwise): it's just one more possible point of failure. Forget it and change the oil every 2,000 miles or annually, whichever come first.0
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