Need Parts for '49? Hudson Transmission

[Deleted User]

I have '49 Commodore 8 which has had the engine replaced with a 308 Six cylinder engine. So chances may be good that it is not the original transmission; it may be. Anyway I know that I am going to need to either repair or replace my transmission (currently a three speed (three on the tree)) with overdrive. I have pulled the top plate off of the transmission and I can see at least one gear with chipped teeth. There may be other problems since the location of the chipped teeth don't seem to be the cause of my problems getting the car into reverse. My next step is to pull the transmission out of the car... If you have transmission parts or a known good tranmission please let me know at dbputman@msn.com.



THANKS - If I have to purchase a transmission then I hope to find one close to northern Utah.

53jetman

Sometimes on the 46 thru 49 trans w/OD it could be difficult to get into reverse. You might try disengaging the OD before you try to shift into reverse. If this proves to be the problem, then it may be an adjustment of the transmission linkage from the steering column to the transmission is all you will need.

hudsonguy

To go along with what Jerry is saying, I read in one of the Hudson manuals that it WILL be difficult to get it to stay in reverse with the single lever OD transmission, even when all is adjusted properly. I have found that to be the case on my '49. As soon as you let off the gas, it will drop into neutral if left alone. So I keep some upward pressure on the lever whenever I let off the gas while in reverse, and have learned to live with it. I think a stronger detent spring in the transmission will fix this though.

super651

I had the same problem and the fix is,remove the Reverse overdrive lock-out switch . It has 2-wires connected to it and it is located on the rear and to the upper part of the overdrive case. Make a small metal cover with a gasket and using the small screws mount it. You will find that this will let the shift rod move all the way to the rear and let the inter-lock hold it in Rev. Later over-drives do not use this switch and the casting is not drilled for one. It is not needed and not used,as the overdrive will not be used in Rev.any way. To see if this is the problem just remove the switch and then shift the trans. into Rev. It should stay.

While this switch is out just try to push the plunger of the switch in and you will see that it takes to much load to make it move.

Hope this is of help. It has worked for about 4 of the local Hud-Nuts.

Hudsonly Rudy

hudsonguy

super651 wrote:

I had the same problem and the fix is,remove the Reverse overdrive lock-out switch . It has 2-wires connected to it and it is located on the rear and to the upper part of the overdrive case. Make a small metal cover with a gasket and using the small screws mount it. You will find that this will let the shift rod move all the way to the rear and let the inter-lock hold it in Rev. Later over-drives do not use this switch and the casting is not drilled for one. It is not needed and not used,as the overdrive will not be used in Rev.any way. To see if this is the problem just remove the switch and then shift the trans. into Rev. It should stay.

While this switch is out just try to push the plunger of the switch in and you will see that it takes to much load to make it move.

Hope this is of help. It has worked for about 4 of the local Hud-Nuts.

Hudsonly Rudy

Rudy,



Thanks for the fix! That makes perfect sense. Very well explained, too. I guess the only question I have is what to do with the two wires? Connect them? Cut them off?



Is this forum the greatest thing or WHAT? Thanks again, Doug

super651

I Just removed the switch and tapped it up and tied it out of the way plugged the hole so oil would not leak out and it shifts in rev.inter-lock just fine.

You may want to leave the wires on the switch when removed and use a test light to see if it is on or off when the plunger is in the out position that way you can tell if the wires need to be connected or just paped up.

Let us know so one day I can do mine the proper way. Hudsonly to all Rudy

Park_W

The wires need to be connected, otherwise the OD will not engage. Just buy a female "bullet" splice connector of the right diameter (the bulllet connectors are made in two different diameters)

super651

Thanks Park, next time im under the 51 I will connect the wires.

Hudsonly Rudy

SuperDave

The only use for the switch is to remove the ground from the circuit so that the solenoid won't/can't kick in while the car is in reverse. The car cannot be moved backwards with the solenoid energized. It's locked solid!

hudsonguy

SuperDave wrote:

The only use for the switch is to remove the ground from the circuit so that the solenoid won't/can't kick in while the car is in reverse. The car cannot be moved backwards with the solenoid energized. It's locked solid!

I'm thinking the way I'll do it is to 'disable' the switch itself. It will render it useless, but it's not needed anyway.



I imagine there is a plunger that is exposed when the switch is removed. I'm thinking hacksaw or grinder to remove the plunger, and then re-attach the switch. Since it's already wired, it seems like this may be the simplest, cleanest way for me to go.



Rudy and Park, Thanks for all the help on this.

SuperDave

Actually, the switch has the plunger part that extends into the trans. Just a simple cover and maybe a gasket to be neat is all you will need.

hudsonguy

SuperDave wrote:

Actually, the switch has the plunger part that extends into the trans. Just a simple cover and maybe a gasket to be neat is all you will need.

That's what I meant, actually. Remove the switch, grind some material off the switch plunger, re-install. That way no cover is needed, it will look stock (as if anyone is gonna be crawling around down there anyway!), and it'll take about five minutes to do the modification.