Overheating prevention

DavidC

Hello, everyone. I'm a fairly new member of HET club and this forum, and appreciate the advice. Loads of great info. This site is always the most visited- a tribute to all.



I am restoring a '53 Hudson H sedan for my 14 yr old son from ground up. Maybe it will be done by the time he graduates HS.



One of Hudson's reported problems is overheating. I want to prevent that. I've read many options on preventing this, to include...



Dodge truck or other rad

electric fan/shroud

thermostat housing mods- per Walt (I hope I can call you Walt)

water pump high-pressure relief with bypass to driver side of cylinders as well as mods to distribution tube-

per rudy Bennett



I'm sure there's others I've forgotten.



As I'm having the motor rebuilt, now's the time to add any such mods. I'm open to the forum's advice and expertise.



Dave C

[Deleted User]

Dave,



I have a Dodge 3/4 ton van w/ A/C radiator, rebuilt water pump, new head gasket, and I drilled the additional holes in the brass distribution tube in the block. OE type thermostat (but Walts set-up looks pretty sweet) no shroud and mine never climbs past 185-190 on the hottest summer days in traffic. If you can, take the freeze plugs out of the block and clean out all the goop that accumulates at the bottom of the block. Mine had over an inch of black crud in the bottom. One would have to think that all that buildup would be taking up space where coolant could be helping to remove heat from the cylinders. Hope this helps

DavidC

Dave, thanks, and yep, the block is being completely torn down, all freeze plugs out, thorough cleaning and crack check before machining.

Lee ODell

Rust build up inside the engine/ head coolant passages, act as an insulator between engine and coolant.



Removing as much rust as possible will help engine heat transfer to the coolant.



Keep us posted as your restoration progresses. Lee

DavidC

Thank you to all this good advice, and I will check with Walt Mordenti about the mods he's worked out on Hudsons



Dave

MikeWA

I have an electric fan on my '48- moves approximately as much air as a category 2 hurricane, I think. I think the combination of the Dodge radiator and electric fan would make you virtually immune from overheating.

DavidC

Thank you, Mike, will try fan/shroud

Lee ODell

If you want to keep it stock looking, you can pick up a 7 blade fan at the wrecking yard for very little cost. It will pull about double the air through the radiator.



Lee

[Deleted User]

David

I believe the best advice you can receive is to assure your engine block is properly cleaned when you prepare it for rebuilding. Clean cooling passages will provide the best foundation for a properly operating Hornet engine.

Cleaning the block properly is NOT a trivial or easy job. A though cleaning includes removal of all casting plugs (the ones inserted into the water passages) to access and clean the interior of the block. Also remove the brass cooling tube to allow cleaning the interior of the area it occupies.

Most of the cleaning will take place in areas you cannot see. Access to these areas will be via probes and long handle cleaning brushes. Having several types of steel wire shank brass bristle brushes will greatly enhance your cleaning ability. Find and buy a variety of these small brushes so you can access all of the water passages of the engine. The process is: your insert these brushes into all the water passages and clean, rinse, clean, rinse and clean and rinse again.

Also carefully inspect the brass cooling tube. I suggest you review Rudy Bennett’s recommended modifications to improve cooling efficiency of the brass cooling tube. Rudy is a HETer from Texas who spent a considerable amount of time analyzing how this tube affects the combustion and cooling efficiency of a Hudson engine.

When your reassemble the engine ... use the correct head gasket and install a properly rebuild water pump.

The rest of the cooling system is the same ... inspect and repair or replace. You should not have any cooling problems if you atttend to the details and make sure all parts are in good service.

Good Luck

DavidC

Thank you, Ken. when referring to casting plugs, are you referring to the removable freeze-type plugs, or actually drilling out the iron casting circles on the driver side of block?



I planned on having the machinist do a bath soak and then steam clean. Is this not enough? Will there still be debris that must be mechanically rmeoved (brushes)? The block is at the machine shop, so I need to know before this step is considered done. Yes, I want a spotless block.

[Deleted User]

The casting plugs I refer to are the freeze type plugs... no drilling.
Soaking and steaming will bring the block to a partial clean level. The brushes need to be used through the openings that are created when the freeze plugs are removed and all the water passages seen at the top of the block. Your goal is to remove all the rust and chemical reaction scale from these passages.

Good Luck

Lee ODell

Oil passages haven't been mentioned. Run the appropriate size bottle brush through all the oil passages to make sure there is no crud still stuck inside them.



Is this restoration a father/son project? When I was 14 I was helping my dad on a 1954 Corvette restoration. Actually, he made a mold off a friends Corvette to make a new front clip for his, that had been in an accident. Oh, how that fiberglass dust itched when sanding.



I'm enjoying reading about your progress. Please keep us informed.



Lee

DavidC

Lee, yup, we are restoring this old car together. Will post some pics when I get a chance.

Jay_G

I have a 53 that I restored last year. It has a 308 stroker and I live in Southern California. I had a radiator shop put in a 4 core with the original tanks and I have had no problems even when it was over 100. The guage stayed smack dab in the middle. I put a pusher fan on in addition to the normal 4 blade but I don't think I need it.



One thing I did learn but I have not rectified it is, if you build a bigger, better, higher compression engine, don't leave the starter 6v. It is a pain to start. But other than that small issue it has been great running car and lots of fun.



Jay

DavidC

Thanks, Jay, and everyone. I was going to go the Dodge Rad route, but may reconsider custom rad.



I am going totally 12v, and have sent off starter for re-coil, so that part should be OK.



Will insist machinist run all oil and water passages with brushes and redunk block if any brush comes back any way but spotless. Really appreciate all the advice.



Not stroking, but overbore calculates out to a 318 CI. Mild cam, headers, dual exhaust round out the mild buildup. Must remain perfectly streetable.

Dave