wiring harness

Unknown

Hey Guys

I need a complete harness for my pickup with 308. I see YNZ on the net. Good outfit?? Where are the located?? Any other suggestions??

Thanks

Jeff

Kelseyville

RonS

IMO, they are the best. They are in Redlands Ca. bp= 909-798.1498

Jim Kilday

YnZ is absolutely the best. Instructions are so good even an idiot can follow them.

Jon B

(Not to suggest that you're an idiot, of course...!)

[Deleted User]

Anyone ever use these guy's? http://www.narragansettreproductions.com/wiring-harness.html



The cost to do my '46 is under $500.00. I have not heard of them before though. I rewired everything under the hood just so I could make sure everything works and its all good, but the old wiring harness wires are brittle and I think its safer to replace it while I have pretty much everything out of the car so it will be easy.

[Deleted User]

I have two Hornets that have been done with the YNZ harnesses. Top notch and correct. A new harness for a Hornet w O/D will set you back about $1,400-$1,500.

onerare39

I used YnZ for my 54, they did a beautiful job and was it easy to install. After I got the new wiring harness installed and had checked all the wiring and connections five times I was still leary about connecting the battery. I called YnZ to see if they had any suggestions to keep me from frying the new wiring (just in case I had put a hot to ground). They had a great suggestion... use a 6 volt lantern battery! By connecting the battery cables to the 6 volt lantern battery it will supply enough power to run the lights (even headlights for a second) and instruments, and there are not enough amps in the lantern battery to fry the system if you have a short. Believe it or not I got it installed correctly the very first time, but was still leary about using a regular 6 volt battery the very first time.



John

bob ward

46super6 wrote:

I rewired everything under the hood just so I could make sure everything works and its all good, but the old wiring harness wires are brittle and I think its safer to replace it while I have pretty much everything out of the car so it will be easy.

Anyone driving a 50+ year old car with the original wiring is courting at least an electrical failure, at worst an electrical fire.



A serious problem with the old style rubber insulation is that it had a short service life, by the time it was 20 years old it had lost all its flexibility and become brittle, fragile and easy to dislodge.



Every time you have a fiddle round under the dash, moving wires aside to get to whatever (not that any of us ever need to do that do we?) you can guarantee that you leave more exposed wire and more potential hazard under there.

[Deleted User]

Among the replies I have detected one poster may have manufactured and installed their own harness (Under hood)? The point of my reply is, while the harnesses a restorer can purchase will do the job, to me the task of restoring the car can include making and installing your own harness. I have manufactured new wiring harnesses for several Hudsons and the cost was several days work and about $100 in materials.

Today you can buy the same wiring and connectors the harness manufacturers are using and the resulting harness will appear as OEM and with the added benefit of cloth over modern wiring. Two INTERNET sites where you can purchase these items are below.

http://www.magnetoparts.com/wire.htm

http://www.hummeremporium.com/store/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=51

Obviously each owner makes the choice. For me the $1200-1300 dollars is better spent on paint supplies or interior appointments.

Cheers.

[Deleted User]

Does anyone make fuse blocks that have clear covers to allow viewing with out removing??

Since modern autos are putting the fuse blocks under the hood, anyone see a problem doing that under the Hudson hoods??

Appreciate any comments, positive or negative. Saw one stepdown with under hood fuse block, looked nice, but no cover.

Thanks, Bob

[Deleted User]

Ken,



I would have no problem wiring the whole car myself if I could find the type of terminal connectors that are in the lightbulb sockets, such as the tail lights, dash lights etc. Some of the wires to the sockets are frayed right up aginst the socket itself and I have not found this type of connector yet.



I came to a point where I was tired of doing body work and put my car partially back together just to make sure all the lights worked. It wont be going anywhere anytime soon unforunatly.



Here is another supplier of wires and some terminals.





http://www.brillman.com/store/



Jeff

onerare39

YnZ sells wire, connectors, sockets, bulbs, etc. separately.



John

hudsonguy

No one mentioned yet another source of accurate, ready-to-install wire harnesses for Hudsons, and that is Rhode Island Wiring. They sell a great product as well.

Aaron D. IL

hudsonguy wrote:

No one mentioned yet another source of accurate, ready-to-install wire harnesses for Hudsons, and that is Rhode Island Wiring. They sell a great product as well.

I had another member tell me they liked RI Wiring better than YnZ. $1000+ seems expensive to me. I know copper prices are up but the cost of the materials isn't up THAT much. Hudson wiring systems are not as complicated as cars in later years. I understand wanting a kit where they give you "big box of crayons" instructions though, as I'm not much of an electrical guy myself.



Also if you're contemplating a modern type fuse box they come in 2 flavors... Systems where the wiring goes from the box out to everything. Or a system where all the wires come in from everything on the car to the box. The latter are sometimes called "replacement fuse boxes" and are a little more reasonably priced. That's the route we went wiring up my dads old chevy.

[Deleted User]

Ken Thanks for the link for wiring supplies. I cant believe people pay over a $1,000 bucks for a Hudson wiring harness!

Unknown

I've used Rhode Island and Y&Z. Both make very good harnesses. Y&Z may label theirs a little better than Rhode Island. I would be cautious about Y&Z's Battery cables. I looked at their master and it was definately not correct, (wrong lengths). I was really pleased with Rhode Island's Battery cables. I gave them to Y&Z to duplicate. I will let you know how they come out when I get them.



-Bryan

Aaron D. IL

lincoln61 wrote:

I've used Rhode Island and Y&Z. Both make very good harnesses. Y&Z may label theirs a little better than Rhode Island. I would be cautious about Y&Z's Battery cables. I looked at their master and it was definately not correct, (wrong lengths). I was really pleased with Rhode Island's Battery cables. I gave them to Y&Z to duplicate. I will let you know how they come out when I get them.



-Bryan

Helping their competition? shame shame shame. LOL

coverton

Speaking of "rewire" jobs,$500-$1,000 bucks for a few feet of 16,to 12 gague wire and a handful of connectors is to me out of my tight-a#@ way of looking at this hobby ? I think the challenge is 95% of the fun.All sorts of discarded wiring parts in junk yards and for that matter you can find a nice 12 ctc modern day blade fuse block with grounds all over ebay. Uou can rout a heavy feed wire to the block,mount it on the drivers kick plate area and the refeed most everything from there.Gets most of the rats nest off the ignition switch so you can see it too. I just completely rewired my 51 and converted it to 12 V -even buy used 12 v batteries from Auto Zone - and a 12 v coil is less that twenty bucks.12 v lamps are all over the place too,I buy from www.tvifilters.com for as low as around a dime up !!! You can also go halogen and actually see where you are going ? Won't be quite "original" but won't start a fire either.

bet my buddies a beer she would fire up on the first go-since it was NOT a Lucas system -no smoke-I ordered a select 55 need to watch your figure at my age

Carroll O

I consider chaep a virtue

[Deleted User]

Carroll There is another OTHER BENEFIT of doing your own harness... You know how the car is wired.

Aaron D. IL

My dad and I did his cars' wiring from scratch. put terminal strips on the drivers' side kick board and a "replacement fusebox" with terminal connectors in the middle of the car under the dash. All the wires under the hood and from the back of the car all came to the terminal strips first before going to the fuse box.



The advantage being each system could not only be isolated but also tested independantly of the others in the event of a short or other electrical problem. Also new things could be added or removed from the system without hacking up the wiring especially when you're in search of a power source to add something. Dad also drew up a wiring diagram of what was done, labeled all the wires with letters and numbers, all of which should not only help us in the future but maybe the poor unfortunate bastard who might inherit the car.