electrical shutdown

Edwardjohnsr

I have had a complete shutdown of all electrical circuits. Its more than just lights, the engine stops and nothing happens when I try to restart. To get home I put a jumper from the bat terminal of the voltage regulator to the center post of the horn relay. Later that day, I was able to remove the jumper and everything was back to normal. A few days later, same problem. This time I installed a jumper with a 30 amp fuse (from the bat terminal to the horn relay) and all is well.



I'd like to trace down the cause. There are two oem wires from the horn relay (center terminal) to the wiring harness that goes through the firewall but I can't figure out where these wires go. They must be the problem but I don't know where to look. Can anyone help?



Ed

Jon B

Have you checked the connections from the battery? The ground strap and the cable, and the battery terminals, should be clean and tight. If you haven't touched them in some time, unbolt them, clean and re-connect them. Also clean the connections at the other end of each. And if you have a second ground cable elsewhere, check that connection too.



I have had my car just shut down entirely, instantanously, when one of my battery cables was loose.

RonS

Does your car have an AMP meter? Or the wire going to the warning light? Check the terminals make sure the did not come loose. Does the starter turn the engine? AS stated the wire on the batt to starter could be loose, When RPM drop below regulator cut in speed the engine will die. It might restart but as the wire moves contact is lost. Happened to me. Got distracted & forgot to tighten the small nut on the relay.

[Deleted User]

What type of Hudson are you working on?

The Stepdown Hudsons utilize a 30 AMP Ckt Bkr to distribute the battery power to the remaining circuits. The Horn Relay had three terminals, H = Horns connection, B= Battery connection directly to the battery side of the 30 AMP Ckt Bkr and S= Horn switch or button.

Since the 30 AMP breaker feeds all the car electrical circuits, I would suggest it is not getting power at times, or a short in one of the circuits is causing this breaker to open. When the breaker cools the power returns.

With good battery connections and a non resistive ground between the battery and the car... my guess is a short which is opening the CKT BKR.

If the car has original wiring, deterioration in the insulation can lead to this type of problem.

Geoff

It wouldbe helpful to know what model Hudson this is.

coverton

ED, My guess would be old corroded connections. Old car circuitry is nowhere as complicated as the modern PCM ECM rats nest we deal with on a Kia or Cadillac.So before you get completely frustrated clean all your basic connections and use a dab of "No-OX" so the corrosion and dissimilar metals issue wont reoccur.

I might add that possibly there is a basic electricity CE course taught at a trade or community college to get your thoughts in the right direction..I have don just that and it surprised me at what I either forgot or never knew despite being in the electrical trade since 1985.An old dog can learn a new trick

Carroll O-age 73

Edwardjohnsr

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I will continue tracing wires and cleaning connections and hopefully I'll eventually find and fix the culprit.

Ed

[Deleted User]

Please describe the vehicle, year, make, model, extras. Thanks, "Guessing"

Edwardjohnsr

It is a '53 Hudson Hornet.4-dr. 3-speed with overdrive. Twin H carburetors. Radio and heater. No special accessories. I suspect it may be the main supply wire that feeds the horn and I will focus my attention there.

Ed

junkcarfann

Jon B wrote:

I have had my car just shut down entirely, instantanously, when one of my battery cables was loose.

Souldn't it have kept running off the generator?

RonS

Ken. Like your suggestion of the aux circuit breaker, mounted on the column support. I do believe that it is 20 amp, not 30. Headlights are 25amp.