rear wheel removel question, 1948 stepdown

Unknown

Fellow Hudsonites;



My friend and I are in the middle of a brake job on a 1948 Hudson. We're having trouble getting the rear drums off. This car appears to have a drum nut and cotter pin arrangement like the front drums, but once removed, the drum won't budge.



What do I need to do to get the drum off? Just muscle, or am I missing something.



Thanks;

-Chris

Unknown

You need a puller that has three legs on it and a big threaded bolt in the middle. You bolt up the three legs to the drum using the lug bolts then you wack the "T" on the giant srew with a sledge hammer and the drum will pop off. I bought mine from a snap-on dealer about 20 years ago. I don't know if they still offer it. But I'm sure that you can find one on e-bay or from an antique tool dealer.

Jon B

See the following thread: http://www.classiccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2955&highlight=BRAKE+DRUM



In past years I would rent these from tool places; older rental establishments are more likely to have them in stock.



Then open up the following instructional photos on the Hudson Photo Album site, http://groups.msn.com/HudsonEssexTerraplaneBulletinBoard/rearwheelpuller.msnw



Two thoughts: 1) be sure the drum actually turns before attempting to pull it, and 2) if it is being stubborn when you use the puller, try tapping all around the perimeter with a heavy hammer; this sets up a vibration, and that -- along with the tension you've created by tightening on the puller -- may break it loose. Therefore, be sure you've left the nut on, because that drum may come flying off in your lap if you haven't!

Unknown

Ask for a "wheel puller." Leave the nut on loosely when banging on the puller because when it lets go there may be a tremendous amount of energy released. I bought a Snap-Off Blue-Point wheel puller on ebay for $35 several years ago. There is no substitute! You must use a wheel puller.



Good Luck

Steve

Unknown

Excellent. We got a wheel puller and will try this afternoon. Thanks!

dwardo99

Also, make sure the nut is flush with the threads so you don't screw up the end of the threads with the puller. DAMHIK.

PAULARGETYPE

HI I DID THE PHOTO'S ABOUT 3 YEARS AGO AND HAVE GOTTEN ALOT OF + FEEDBACK I HOPE THEY HELP YOU ALSO THE PHOTOS ARE STILL JUST AS GOOD NOW AS THEN GOOD LUCK THE WEB ADRESS IS ABOVE ON JON'S POSTING

SuperDave

Sometimes those things can be realllllly stuck! The puller can be a bit destructive if you are not very careful. On old Fords that have gotten themselves

stuck", I have loosened the nut one or two turns and drive gently around the block. Easy on the clutch. Well, maybe twice...Sometimes that will help get the hub loose from the tapered axle.

And when you put it back on, make sure there is a little oil or antisieze on the axle. Might be a long time before it needs to come off again , but the next guy will be a happy camper.

Dave W.

bob ward

If you are hiring a puller try go for one of the hydraulic variety. Used one on a Hudson rear end recently and it was so ELEGANT. Set the puller up on the hub, turn the hydraulic screw with your fingers and off pops the drum. No fuss no hammers



Also, is it not a no-no to hammer the end of the puller, does not that tend to damage the spacer block between the axle ends?

[Deleted User]

Bob, You don't hammer on the end of the puller. There is a cross bar that turns the bolt in the center of the puller into a "T" handle. You can then wail away on the cross bar. In Steve's post above, with the picture, you can just make out the cross bar on the puller.

Bob