Ignition help...

GrimGreaser

Alright, I have the '52s engine together enough to mess around with cranking it. I had it cranking over this afternoon, not really expecting it to start, just checking things out. I've converted to 12V, have a '56 Hornet coil (well, it interchanges with my '65 Chevy truck anyway). So, with my timing light hooked up to #1 I wasn't getting any flash on the light. Hook it up to the coil wire and there's enough current for the timing light to pick up and flash. Oh, and the coil got pretty damn hot too. Not sure if thats normal, never thought to feel it om the Chevy.



So... My thoughts: Spark plugs with too much gap? Engine supposedly ran before I got it, and they looked good last I looked but didn't check the gap (just pulled 'em out to spray some WD-40 in the bores). I replaced the condenser with one from my '65 Chevy truck, since I'm not sure if what was in there will take the 12V. Though, looking at Park's conversion sheet, he doesn't mention converting the condenser. Could that have anything to do with it? Cap's internal terminals look kinda worn, but the rotor looks brand new. Cleaned and set the points when I changed the condenser. I'll check the plugs tomorrow, but I figured I'd pick everyones brains here before I go off chasing any gremlins that ain't there. Thanks guys.

Snailslayer

you can check the coil with a multimeter. they have a specified range of Ohms across the +/- and the + to coil outlet. each coil brand differs I believe your LAPS may assit in this test too.

A coil will still fire if weak, but a multimeter will give you obejective data and can be done outside the car too.



Condensers are the same for 6 or 12V and dont need converted i Believe. make sure the condenser hasnt failed either. if you switched points make sure they are compatible. once had switched a replacement wrong set on my vw and it would start or run though they looked close.

make sure a wire isnt grounding out in the Distributor. touch the test light to the dizzy body when it "fires"



hope this helps. I hate Gremlins too



Brad

GrimGreaser

Fairly sure the coil is good, I drive the hell out my Chevy and just borrowed the coil for the Hornet for a bit. But I will look up the specs just to check.

Snailslayer

age and resistance of plug wires too. my guess is a wire grounding out though, or your condensor is fried. my .02

Geoff

It won't eb too much gap on the plugs, as this would still trigger your timing light. i recently had a '29 Essex with the same problem, and all 6 plugs had around 50Kohm from the centre to ground, enough to divert the spark from jumping across the gap. A new set pf plugs fixed it. I think a combination of bad gas, and spraying ether into the carb caused this. Of course it could also be shorting out at the rotor, which would give the same effect. Have you checked by lifting a plug wire and seeing if a spark jumps to ground from the end as you crank the engine? This would eliminate the rotor? Good luck,

Geoff.

GrimGreaser

Yeah, plan on seeing if I get spark tomorrow when I check the plugs. I'm always weary of doing that... I've been bit quite a few times. Never quick enough to pull away and only get hit once.

[Deleted User]

GrimGreaser wrote:

Alright, I have the '52s engine together enough to mess around with cranking it. I had it cranking over this afternoon, not really expecting it to start, just checking things out. I've converted to 12V, have a '56 Hornet coil (well, it interchanges with my '65 Chevy truck anyway). So, with my timing light hooked up to #1 I wasn't getting any flash on the light. Hook it up to the coil wire and there's enough current for the timing light to pick up and flash. Oh, and the coil got pretty damn hot too. Not sure if thats normal, never thought to feel it om the Chevy.



So... My thoughts: Spark plugs with too much gap? Engine supposedly ran before I got it, and they looked good last I looked but didn't check the gap (just pulled 'em out to spray some WD-40 in the bores). I replaced the condenser with one from my '65 Chevy truck, since I'm not sure if what was in there will take the 12V. Though, looking at Park's conversion sheet, he doesn't mention converting the condenser. Could that have anything to do with it? Cap's internal terminals look kinda worn, but the rotor looks brand new. Cleaned and set the points when I changed the condenser. I'll check the plugs tomorrow, but I figured I'd pick everyones brains here before I go off chasing any gremlins that ain't there. Thanks guys.

All Chevy's have an ignition resister, 12 to 6 volts. Did you hook up the coil to one? That's the reason coil got hot and will burn the points. Use a coil that says , internal resister, that cuts the volt to 6. Walt.

GrimGreaser

Well, the coil is the same part through NAPA as the '56 Hornet (which Park's document says has the internal resistor). And the voltage on the negative terminal was ~6 volts when cranking. Either way, this is only a temporary set-up, just so I can mess around.

[Deleted User]

Pull the #1 plug and put the wire back on it, Use a pair of insulated pliers to hold the plug against the head to check for spark.
If no fire, change wire then check again. If still no fire check the dist. cap. Then check for fire at the points and if no fire check the condensor and wiring in the dist. This is a reverse check method. You can also use a half check method Starting at the coil, go 1/2 way to the plug, say dist. cap and check for fire, if not there check between the dist.cap and the coil. You will find it. Oh yeah Especially check the dist cap for carbon tracking as it can cause the problem you describe.
Just my $.01 ( to broke for the whole $.02 )
Bob

GrimGreaser

HA! Success!!! It starts!



(Not it running, but how I'm feelin' right now)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8GRQHsAVjI



Got bugs and details to figure out, but it fires up without too much trouble.

TwinH

Nothing finer than a first time fire. Congrats!



Anybody ever tell you you look a lot like Gene Wilder...:p

Unknown

Couple of thoughts, Grim Greaser, as Walt says, all Chevys w/ point-coil ign have an ignition resistor on all but the first few years of the 12 volt models it's part of the wiring loom so it appears like they don't use one. Also a good rule of thumb is which ever trminal of the battery is grounded, that's the terminal on the coil taht goes to the dist [points] otherwise you will get a weak [relative ] spark. In otherwise on a stock Hudson pos terminal goes to the dist, but on a 65 Chevy neg goes to the dist. changing your car to 12 volts you must mimick the hookup mon the Chevy or whichever car you are using parts from.