Inner frame rust prevention/treatment

lsfirth

Hi All, I did a search on the forum and didn't turn up too much as to what should be done to seal the inner frame surfaces of my '49. I'm repairing a few spots that are rusted through but wanted to seal/encapsulate/convert any and all rust inside the frame rails once I have all the repairs made. Has anyone used this:
http://www.eastwood.com/undercar-drivetrain/undercar-coatings/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle.html
I watched the video and looked at the pictures and read the comments and it doesn't sound too bad. Just wondering if anyone on the forum has tried this and what their experience was.

Thanks!
Lee

[Deleted User]

Well first of all the car's ive seen realy rusted were rusted in "Sealed Areas".
The doors for instance on most cars have drain holes in them that tend to get clogged. Same way with boxed frame areas.
You should also remember they did very little in the way of detering rust back in the 40's -50's. Tar like undercoating was about all they used. And sometimes it did more harm tham good. Iv'e scrapped a lot of Hudson's that had been undercoated yet rusted through. It's possible the metal was dirty or rust had allready began when sealer was applied, I don't know.
I would think that if the metal was clean and you could get in there with modern
rust inmibiting sealer. That would be the way to go, otherwise do what you can get to and make sure all the drain holes keep open.
I might also add some oldtimers oil the underside of thier cars each winter.
Up in the frame ,in the doors ,in the wheel wells ,everywhere. Then let it sit on
gravel somewhere to drip out. They tell me it's quite messy , but oily metal don't rust.
Roger

RL Chilton

Lee-

That's what I am using on the convertible.

bellbigdawg

Hudson stuffed thier frames with insulation that held water and dirt causing rust. I sandblasted my frame the best we could, then powdercoated it. you could epoxy prime and paint. but I still had some inner areas that the sandblaster did not get to, and the powdercoat did not reach. in those spots I used POR15 to convert the rust and seal them areas. eastwood sells it and can get on ebay or privite dealers.

lsfirth

Hi Guys....thanks for the input. I'll take all your advice and try to come up with a game plan. I've already pressure washed all the crap out of the frame rails....there was a butt load of dirt and sand in them. My dad thought that the car had been in a river at some point, but I think it was just the dusty eastern side of montana where a few dust particles would blow into the frame every day and after sitting for over 50 years, it just built up!!! Anyway, I sure which there was good access to the insides of them, but I'll try to get everywhere I can with a wire brush on a stick then use the Eastwood frame spray stuff mentioned above....hell if it's good enough for Russell's vert, it's good enough for me I think it's funtionally equivalent to the POR-15 which is an outstanding product. I'll also keep the drain holes opened up as mentioned above and try to get some RustBullit in there with a rag on a stick the best I can. Then pray she doesn't bust in half like BentMetals dad witnessed years ago Just kidding - I'm fixing all the bad stuff!! Thanks guys....I'll provide an update when I get to a good point for one!!

Here's a shot of my dad "workin" the frame holes!!



Lee

Browniepetersen

I do not have anything to add except experience. With my Martz Roadster we have powdercoated the frame. The sheet metal that is in the "desert rat" condition we have completed the body/fender work then used an epoxy primer on everything. After that comes a good coat of paint everywhere. If I am not doing a frame off, then I scrape, grind, wirebrush, ect, then do the epoxy primer/paint process (brushed on to make it extra thick) on the under surfaces and then each winter before I put the car to bed I put it up on a lift and power wash it. A week or two later when all has dried, I go back to repair the road rash and do recoating or repair....