Step-down leaf spring removal
Okay....I hit a road block (well nothing the flame wrench can't solve). After getting the rear-end out of the way, I wanted to completely remove the leafs from the car. So I took the nut off the front, and after studying it, the foreward mount looks riveted and welded in place. I don't see how to remove the front of the leaf without cutting metal??? I hate to damage anything.
Thanks,
Lee
Thanks,
Lee
0
Comments
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Yes it does look like that,It's been awhile since I pulled one out. I remember even after taking the nut off it would not move. The bolt was stuck to the rubber in the spring. Take the nut off, remove the rear spring shackle and pull down. The rubber should break loose and a hammer and punch should knock it out other side. I seem to recall they are bolts with round heads on them. And maybee a flat side to keep them from spinning. Hope this helps,
Roger0 -
Tallent R is right. The assembly is held in by a large flat headed bolt that will have to be tapped out with a hammer. Once cleaned up and with a new bushing , it will go back together a lot more easily.0
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Ah...okay. I felt the head up inside the gusset that holds the attachment assembly and it felt like it was welded in. You can't directly see the head since it's behind the frame, but it certainly didn't feel like a typical head on it. What you guys describe sounds right....I couldn't imagine not being able to unbolt the spring. I'll try tapping the bolt out.
Thanks!
Lee
BTW - Roger is that some kind of a converted hudson camp trailer for your avatar??...pretty cool looking!0 -
Yes , that is the one and only Hudson Commadore Camper Special . The old guy that built it died before he finished it. I am not sure what I will do with it for sure. Have thought about finishing it and hauling my stuff to swap meet's in it.
The gut did a lot of work to it, even took the gears out and capped off where the punkin was. The whole dash is gone right up to the windshield. It's too bad the axle is'nt farther forward for better ballance,
Roger0 -
You guys were right on the money. A few good strong "taps" and the bolt came out. The head is just as you described - large cirular and flat. It fits flush in the bracket which is what threw me - you couldn't even tell there was a head there!
Thanks again!
Lee0 -
Glad to help, I know first tme I tried to remove one I looked at that and
Said W-T-F ! Must be missing something here- this don't come out !
Roger0 -
Found a 4door with an Automatic that was being scrapped. Had to cut the rear floorboard over the leading end of the rear springs to un-bolt each spring. A really good learning experience. Laying on cold ground, hoping the car wouldnt shift and come down made me appreciate being able to get the bolts loose from above(thru the floorboard). Know better how to approach the project now. Memories of cold days, stuck bolt/nuts, and good friends that come to help. Thanks, Bob0
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This is a stepdown rear spring front mount, showing the side we don't normally get to see. The plate is 1/4" thick and the bolt head hole is 1 1/4" diameter with a .010" (10 thou) taper. The bolt head, which is round rather than hex as has been mentioned, is tapered to suit the hole and ends up fitting flush.
Which is why people often go WTF when they grope around up there and can't find a bolt head.0 -
bob ward wrote:This is a stepdown rear spring front mount, showing the side we don't normally get to see. The plate is 1/4" thick and the bolt head hole is 1 1/4" diameter with a .010" (10 thou) taper. The bolt head, which is round rather than hex as has been mentioned, is tapered to suit the hole and ends up fitting flush.
Which is why people often go WTF when they grope around up there and can't find a bolt head.
Seems so obvious now! The head on my bolts actually had a bit of knurling around the edge to give it a little interference in the hole. Very clever design really!
Thanks for the help guys!!0 -
bob ward wrote:This is a stepdown rear spring front mount, showing the side we don't normally get to see. The plate is 1/4" thick and the bolt head hole is 1 1/4" diameter with a .010" (10 thou) taper. The bolt head, which is round rather than hex as has been mentioned, is tapered to suit the hole and ends up fitting flush.
Which is why people often go WTF when they grope around up there and can't find a bolt head.[
/quote]
Bob
Why on earth did you keep that piece when you shifted all your stuff out of Brisbane?
Maybe you had a feeling someone may ask"how do I get that bolt out"
Spencer.0 -
You'll find Hudson specialised in "Clever" .They also over built things others
just slapped together. Go try and snap a piece of trim off a Steppdown and tell me
what happens. Yet managed to make a lighter and stronger car than their closest
competitors,
Roger0
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