Starter Gear or FlyWheel Gear
Which of these "goes bad" first - generally speaking? Starter gear or flywheel gear?
I was working on the Pacemaker today - starting to check the carb settings - after I installed the new thermostat housing. The car was idling poorly - need the gas pedal pressed to stay running once it got warm enough to let the choke release.
I shut it off, removed the air cleaner, adjusted one carb screw and went to re-start the car. All I got was a grinding noise like the starter is not fully engaged or the spot where the flywheel/crank stop 80+% of the time is worn.
I know I need to dig a little deeper and I will have to take a flashlight with me next time. I did tap the starter with a hammer to see if it might be stuck a little - no change.
I just thought I would ask this august group what the most likely candidate is.
I was working on the Pacemaker today - starting to check the carb settings - after I installed the new thermostat housing. The car was idling poorly - need the gas pedal pressed to stay running once it got warm enough to let the choke release.
I shut it off, removed the air cleaner, adjusted one carb screw and went to re-start the car. All I got was a grinding noise like the starter is not fully engaged or the spot where the flywheel/crank stop 80+% of the time is worn.
I know I need to dig a little deeper and I will have to take a flashlight with me next time. I did tap the starter with a hammer to see if it might be stuck a little - no change.
I just thought I would ask this august group what the most likely candidate is.
0
Comments
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Not sure what kind of help you're going to get from an august group in November!
I'd say the starter gear is most often worn the more. Even if it isn't, at least it's the easier to deal with. Recently had your problem with my Hornet, and figured since the starter pinion did look a bit worn, I'd try a new Bendix drive assembly. Nairy a problem since. My philosophy ... if you're not sure, try the easy stuff first!
Might be good to first check and be sure the two starter to engine bolts are tight.0 -
I would try and get some light oil on the starter bendix. It slides in and out and tends to get sticky from sitting.
Roger0 -
Seems I've had the same thing happening to me, my Hudson has been driving me insane this last week after a successful first drive. It's been cold here in Colorado, but I figured I could still get the car started. Anyway the starter, among other cold related issues, seems to "slip" out of engagement at the first sign of the engine "catching". Leading to much cursing and gnashing of teeth as it tries to engage again before I can let off the switch. It got to the point where the bendix would hang up and wouldn't engage at all at some points, starter would just spin. I pulled the starter after the bendix finally jammed and wouldn't come forward anymore and cleaned the old oil off and re-oiled with some light gun-oil I had. Next day same thing. Will some dry-lube like graphite or Moly work better here in the cold? Or is there a lever-activated starter I can make work fairly easily with the stock starter hole? Willing to do custom work to starter, don't want to pull engine though.
Don't mean to jack the thread... Mostly needed to vent my frustration a little.0 -
Greaser, as I recall, Hudson makes a point of not having any lube on the Bendix shaft, for the very reasons you're experiencing. Clean the shaft thoroughly with kerosene and operate it dry. Give it a shot. There should never be a need to go to a different type starter ... these critters work fine in all kinds of weather.0
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My experience was a stuck starter, old grease and such that restricted the Bendix;
previous thread;
http://www.classiccar.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=13&id=120649&Itemid=129#1206500
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